Matt
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Everything posted by Matt
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Trapworks make very good snares, and available on-line. Here is a link
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Which is exactly why I posted this topic a while ago...... There is no excuse for some of the crap that is posted on here. Write properly, or dont bother.
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I think it was the late Nigel Shearing who first developed a live catch trap for moles. I'm no fan of these so called 'humane' traps either, but they are freely available to purchase for those 'less informed' members of the public.
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Kent already has a large number of pest controllers, and less and less agriculture. Whilst someone who has keepering experience will have a good idea of what is required, there is still a requirement for training and qualification. More and more farms are subjected to various audits and have to comply with standards as food producers, and one requirement for working those standards is to have recognised pest control qualifications. When I started out in pest control in 1989 there were around 750 pest control 'businesses' (that includes one man bands) in the UK. Today, there are over
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This part of the forum used to be fantastic. People came on here, asked questions, voiced opinions and debated issues. What has happened to it lately? We seem to have become defensive, protective, and worst of all, intolerant. That is a real shame. Sometimes, it pays to take a step back and think about things abit. Everyone has a right to an opinion, even if it isn't the same as yours. C'mon people, lets not allow this to become an all out bitchfest.
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Here is one of mine:
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They sound like the 'Proctor' type of scissor trap, which are available from garden centres and DIY stores. Not the pro choice, but nevertheless, here are some tips: Open up the tunnel causing as little damage as possible. Smooth out the floor of the run Make sure the trap is inline with the tunnel Cover the trap excluding as much light as you can, without letting soil and stones fall into the run which could foul the trap Keep your traps somewhere where they will not be contaminated with scent of any sort. Hope that helps.
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The Kania trap that was submitted for approval included the housing (which is part of the trap). If no tunnel was needed, the order wouldn't have specified it.
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All mole traps are 'spring loaded'. If you dont know what type they are, post us a picture. They type of trap will determine how you set it.
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Rabbits in pup? Feck me, they must be some size.........
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There have been a few test cases on this subject. The law is clear. If you are using spring traps, you must house them within a tunnel, either artificial, or natural. A natural tunnel has been defined as being 'within the overhang of a burrow'. The housing around a Kania does not contitute a tunnel. To use it legally, you must add a tunnel of some sort. There have been previous threads on this subject. One more note; if you are using Fenn traps, a tunnel is even more essential as the trap 'throws' its victim upwards when it goes off. If you have no tunnel roof, or a roof which
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Very, very wrong. The fact that a species is classed as a pest does not entitle anyone to take them without the consent of the landowner. You should always carry a copy of your written permission when you go ferreting and then you are fully legal. If you got stopped with a knife, the onus is on you to prove that you were carrying out legal activities. Taking rabbits without the consent of the landowner would be an illegal activity. One more note on the subject of blade length; I understand that if the blade locks (that includes opinels) it makes no difference how long the blade i
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Ian I can see where you are coming from... Glenn has given far more to the trapping community than any of us could ever repay, and if you suspected that people were taking advantage, you are quite right to raise it as a subject. If you re-read the post in question, Holdaway has clearly credited the idea to Glenn in the title, and it looks like he has asked for Glenn to give him his blessing for production. As originally stated in the articles by Glenn, most of these anchors are available from the US (I've bought some myself from Northwest Trappers in the past). In terms of signatu
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I think you are being harsh there Ian. I can only speak for myself here, but I'll have a go anyway... I've sold Fenn traps for a number of years, mainly via word of mouth. I make little or no money from it, but do it because I like their stuff. Recently, I've started selling traps online, mainly because I'm fed up with seeing people get ripped off with cheap fake copies. Is that so wrong? As far as signature promotion goes, how many times do we get asked on here, 'where can I get x?'. Yes, it's promotion of sorts, but it doesn't take anything away from the forum, and, IMHO,
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Dont forget that rats are Neophobic , so will avoid anything new that apears on their runs. Un-baited Fenns work very well catching foraging rats when they are establishing themselves, but if you have established runs, I'd suggest that whip snares will be better for clearing them up. Trapworks have come up with a simple little trigger system that is cheap to buy and re-usable. There are also some pinned topics on this forum with some very good ideas and instructions. If you are going to bait a trap for rats, chocolate, peanut butter and the like work quite well. I'm getting some rea
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The next site was beside a stream. A natural run seemed ideal, and there was even a stone already in place to form one side of the tunnel, A few more stones were gathered from the locality, And then it was just a question of building the tunnel, This is the other end, The addition of some small pieces of turf to help the tunnel blend in also helped. This tunnel was made big enough to take a Mk6 Fenn, just in case Mr Mink was about... Total time to build both tunnels was 45 minutes. I'll be running traps in them in the spring, so I'll try and get so
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I thought a few people might be interested in this. The best tunnels for use with Fenn traps are made from natural materials, found in the immeadiate locality. On a recent trip to Devon, I decided to build a couple of tunnels to show how easy it is. This is the first site, The addition of a suitable log makes the side of the tunnel, As you can see, getting the dimensions correct is important. A Mk4 Fenn trap is placed to make sure the tunnel is wide enough, and the roof height is correct, and then the tunnel is formed using sticks, Finally, a coupl
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http://www.bbc.co.uk/berkshire/content/art...l_feature.shtml
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the big cheese squirrel cage trap
Matt replied to daniel8822's topic in Snaring, Trapping & Pest Control
There could be several reasons.... These 'budget' traps are not very good really, and I'd suggest that anyone who is serious about trapping invests in the best quality kit they can get. There are several ways to bait cage traps to prevent the bait being stolen. The best thing you can do (apart from binning that chinese monstrosity) is to post some pictures of the trap and the set, and we'll see what we can do to help.. -
Try this: www.trapworks.co.uk Top quality kit at sensible prices..
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I sell Fenn traps online. Prices depend on the quantity required. Email me your requirements, and I'll quote for you. Please note, I only sell genuine Fenn traps, not cheap copies, and the price reflects that. Click on the link in my signiture for more information.
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fenns Gate sets work well for those little chaps...
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Sorry, I misunderstood. Why not use rabbit as bait? It would get them off your case. Interestingly, 'pets' can still be buried at home, so are also exempt from the regs. I'm not sure if you could get away with calling backyard chickens pets though........
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Wild animals are exempt from the Animal (by products) regulations. I would suggest to her that she double checks the legislation that she is wrongly quoting. You could still cause a nuisance by allowing dead animals to rot away, but if you explain things properly, you should be ok.
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I've seen people using Fenn traps over the years, and they always seen a bit nervous when the time comes to pull out your trap and let it off. There is a really easy way to do this, and I've taken a couple of pictures to illustrate. First, pull out the trap by the chain. The natural balance of the trap usually means that the saftey catch will go on by itself. Lay the trap out on the ground, and remove the safety: Next, place your foot squarely over the trap (do NOT put all your weight on it!): Put a little pressure on the plate, and you should feel the trap go off.