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matt_hooks

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Everything posted by matt_hooks

  1. matt_hooks
    Ahhh, some warning this time! I'll have to make sure my rifle's all set up BEFORE I start the HFT course this time Davy, no new silencers! 1. Davyt63 2. Lighthunter 3. hunter1989 4. rossi_j 5. Andyfr1968 6. shay (venomviper) 7. Mikeyblue 8. Si and Laura 9. Dom (redeye) 10.festa and shannon 11.Nathan R 12.Rossy08 13.Basejumper 14.Mark vining 15.Owen vinnig 16.Darryl ( marksman ) 17.Joey ( garfield ) 18.Chris ( reggaman ) 19.dave(hunter1989) brother 21.phill(hunter1989)step dad 22.Simon ( Pianoman ) 23.Mick 2510 24.ANDY&ARCHIE 25.Millsy44 (peter) 26.AndyZ 2
  2. matt_hooks
    The law states that it has to be a bullet "designed to expand in a predictable manner". Anything that isn't FMJ will just about do the job. The plastic tipped bullets do the job just fine, and seem less prone to damage than soft lead tips.
  3. matt_hooks
    It may be your third renewal, but what experience do you have of deer legal calibres? You and I know that a .22 can be as dangerous as a .308, but try telling Mr firearms licencing manager, who's probably not come within 10 feet of a hunting rifle in his life, let alone fired one. The chance of being issued an open ticket for a centrefire rifle on first application is fairly miniscule I would say, unless you can prove extensive knowledge of the intended calibre and how to use it safely. I know it's a PITA, but why can you not get the two permissions checked out for CF, then you do
  4. matt_hooks
    very pricy fox calibre ! each to there own, also having the land passed to 308, may take some getting around. Personally 223 is sufficient for most. My FEO was very sensible about this. He passed the land for full bore rifle, on the grounds that a .22 Hornet is as dangerous at range as a .243, or a .270. or a .308, or a .338. A piece of land is only really "safe" for a calibre if the proper rules are observed, and so if there are sufficient safe lines of fire when used properly, then there's functionally very little downrange difference between the baby rimfires and the big boys! As
  5. matt_hooks
    A moderator will only reduce noise caused by the expanding gases from the powder burning. On a .22 firing subsonic ammunition this is where most of the noise comes from and so a moderator can make a huge difference. With a centrefire, there is a lot of powder being burnt, and so again a moderator will have a noticeable effect. With the .17, there's not a huge amount of powder being burnt, so most of the noise is the sonic shockwave of the round moving through the air at supersonic speeds. A moderator can do nothing to prevent this, and so doesn't have a massive effect on the noise lev
  6. matt_hooks
    If you want a mega accurate shooting tool for rabbits and hares you cannot go wrong with a CZ 452. They are mega accurate (1/2" groups @ 50YDS)are dirt cheap and will do a great job for you. If you want to shoot foxes and deer later on get a .243 and the Tikka T3 is an absolutely awesome tool. Mine groups 1" groups at 200yds with homeloads. Don't believe all the hype about the .17hmr, I had one and sold it after using it for 3 months. The slightest bit of wind and its all over the shop. I use the .243 tikka now for long range rabbits till I get the .20cal. WTF,.243 for long
  7. matt_hooks
    Personally I wouldn't bother replacing it. I've experimented with many guns and with/without fore end beads, and they make no difference when shooting properly. The only time a fibre optic might be useful is shooting stationary targets, and even then I don't really see much gain over looking along the top of the barrel.
  8. matt_hooks
    I've seen a few. Pretty flimsy and very low on power. You get what you pay for. As for kill distance, can you get close enough to smack the quarry on the head with the butt? Otherwise, I'd not use one on live quarry. If you want to modify, then a strip down, de-burr, replacing the piston with a neoprene seal and replacing the spring with a decent one will give you around 10 ft.lb, so reasonable hunting power, but after you've bought the rifle, then the seal, and the springs, you will have spent enough to buy a decent second hand springer.
  9. matt_hooks
    What calibre is the rifle? An air rifle will need to be zeroed at whatever range you are most likely to be using it. If you plan on hunting, then I would personally zero a .22 at 30 yards, and a .177 at 35 yards. This gives the largest extent of point blank range (the set of ranges that the fall of shot is within the required kill zone, so for live air rifle quarry a 2 inch circle). Ignore the mil dot "specifications". Get out with your rifle, and find out what each mil-dot means in elevation and windage. Write them down and learn them, or some people make up a table of mil-dot offset
  10. matt_hooks
    I'm going for Shearwater too, saw hundreds of them on Rum, look cute but those beaks are SHARP!
  11. matt_hooks
    My .243 has, after fitting a bipod, decided to shift POI nearly 18 inches left at 180 yards. The bipod is a standard sling swivel mount, and is not in direct contact with the barrel. I'm thinking of taking the bipod off again (not too keen on the extra weight anyway) though I like the convenience. What do you lot reckon? I could zero out the shift, and the scope will be replaced shortly anyway (when I find some high Parker Hale mounts) so not too worried about the zero changing.
  12. matt_hooks
    Hi mate. Would you split it, as not got that much on the ticket!
  13. matt_hooks
    Ok, firstly the legal stuff. You can't hire a rifle to use on your own, full stop. It's illegal. You CAN use a rifle under the supervision of the person who has the shooting rights over the land, under a thing called the "estate condition". "Under supervision" is usually defined as "in sight and hearing of". As a total beginner, you wouldn't be using the rifle on your own anyway. There are plenty of places where you can pay to go stalking. Prices vary hugely depending on location, the type of deer, the sex, whether it's a trophy head, the list of cost variables just goes on. Have you d
  14. matt_hooks
    Haha thanks guys. I'm in Scotland at the mo, off trying to blag some free (or at least vrey cheap) stalking to try out my new rifle. Parker Hale .243. Loving the 3000 fps and 2000 ft.lb! Davy, we need to go and bash some more bunnies soon. How did you get on with the home brew? That batch was superb I thought, if a little OTT on the alcohol front!
  15. matt_hooks
    I'd not spotted your location either. Which "Western Isle" are you on? I'm on Ardnamurchan at the mo, was living on Rum for a fair bit last year/beginning of this year.
  16. matt_hooks
    You don't need a variation for humane dispatch. A centrefire rifle isn't really an appropriate tool though, the risk of passing through is too high. A .22LR is more than enough at close range, placed either at the back of the skull in the atlas joint, or in the front of the skull angled towards the back of the skull, aiming at the point where the lines joining the base of each ear to the corner of the opposite eye meet. A shotgun is an extremely effective tool too, though the damage can be very severe and might not be a good option if there are "civilians" around. Also used a knife, both t
  17. matt_hooks
    See that's two fundamental errors. Firstly, NEVER underestimate a squirrel, they're tough little buggers. Secondly, when you do something monumentally stupid, the LAST thing you should do is tell anyone about it! As for that picture, well, no wonder you fell over with that gurt stupid white mask on, bet you can't see a thing!
  18. matt_hooks
    Cheers Simon. I'm annoyed because I had a lovely old Nikko Stirling Diamond, 3-12x50 AO IR that I bought ages ago for just such an occasion. I'd been using it on my PCP because it seemed a shame to leave it sitting in the box, but managed to drop the PCP, smashing the eyepiece on the tractor pedal! I'm wary about the Hawke scopes, I have two, one on my rimmy and one on my PCP, and they work perfectly on those, but the .243 has a heck of a lot more recoil than even the most bouncy of springers. I've invested in a Nikko Sterling Game King 6-24 x 50, AO with the LRX reticle. £50 off EB
  19. matt_hooks
    Gram, I understand what the porting is supposed to do, what I don't understand is how it's supposed to do it. Recoil occurs in accordance with newtons second law. If it is not directed centrally backwards then it will cause the muzzle to rise (muzzle flip). This happens immediately the powder ignites. The porting supposedly reduces this effect by allowing the escape of some of the combustion gases from the top of the barrel. This only happens at the very end of the barrel, just before the pellets leave the barrel altogether. The barrel has already travelled upwards a fair bit by then, and the
  20. matt_hooks
    They're just a fairly standard 3 stage stirrup pump. They do the job. I've not used one, on account of being lazy and having a divers bottle. lol
  21. matt_hooks
    See I'm tempted. Need a new scope for the .243 but can't afford any of the normal suspects. You reckon a Hawke scope might survive the recoil?
  22. matt_hooks
    For dispatching cage caught foxes at zero range, an air rifle should do the job admirably. The shorts and CB/BB should be perfect for the job too, and slower/quieter than the standard subs. Of course they'll probably be a little bit more expensive, and is there an appreciable increase in safety?
  23. matt_hooks
    The porting means that you'll hear the shot more, and if shooting when it's dark you'll see more muzzle flash. The supposed pro's (less recoil and less muzzle flip) don't seem to make sense to me, but I could be wrong.
  24. matt_hooks
    RWS still stock a .22 short shell with about 60 ft.lb, that's the lowest energy I can find. http://www.rwsmunition.de/en/sports_rimfire/rimfire_field_line.htm?navid=33
  25. matt_hooks
    The old .22BB and .22CB were low powered, basically no propellant except the igniting cap. Not sure how you'd go about getting hold of them though these days.
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