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Everything posted by david901

  1. Hi Redtail007 That is a good age to be running pups on. The few times I bred a litter, I couldn't wait till they were old enough to be rehomed at 8 to 10 weeks. I can't imagine anything more destructive than a litter of pups at that age
  2. Both Imprint and Parent reared have their advantages and disadvantages. It all depends what you require. If you get the bird at a decent age and do lots of positive manning, a parent reared gos can become very steady but there is always a bit of fear factor with them. I have never waked a bird, but from what the above posts have stated, the hawks are very tame at the end of the process. The biggest issue I have with my imprinted female, is if she gets bored or frustrated, she will nail my Brittany. Not very good for the dog and if he was a shy type of dog, it could have ruined h
  3. Hi Accip74 I like your suggestion about waking. Unfortunately it requires a team of people to do it correctly and I don't have any mates that would be obliging enough to do a nightshift waking my bird as I slept ...LOL
  4. Hi bullet, I personally prefer PR hawks. They have their drawbacks, but to me they are easier to understand and get on with...no screaming/manteling, etc etc. The thing with PR is you need to do a lot of manning at the beginning, though there are PR and then there are PR hawks. What I mean is some breeders state they are selling PR birds, but they have been incubated and hand-fed for a week or two which means they are imprinted to a degree. I prefer naturally bred and reared, then there are no surprising behaviours. Hunting in company can be a problem with some hawks not tolerating
  5. I totally agree Mossdog. Vizslas have a bit of a dubious reputation.Some good, some not so good. At £1000 its too much of a gamble for me, though I'll keep looking.....Perhaps I will look at Ireland.
  6. I will be flying my 7 year old male PR German gos, will pull him next month or so. I may also get my 6 year old female imprint gos out later in the season. She has a knackered foot from 2 seasons ago and so far has struggled to hold quarry, which is a shame as she was a hell of a hawk in her day.
  7. Unfortunately Mossdog, some people see it as a way to make a fair bit of money. I have been considering getting a Viszla pup, but can't seem to get one for much less than £1000. Not cheap.
  8. Totally agree with above post
  9. How can a picture tell you how much "graft" a dog has done? Anyway, there are loads of dogs out there working to ground every weekend without getting badly marked.
  10. dee mac I agree to a certain extent to what you are saying, BUT unfortunately there seems to be a load of folk jumping on the band-wagon so to speak and breeding any dog to any bitch without looking to produce a quality pup. I have seen loads of dogs bred without any mention of working ability. There seems a demand for "poser" dogs by the general public and I am finding it rather difficult to source a well-bred HPR pup that isn't going for silly money.
  11. If your dog is putting up enough game for your hawk there shouldn't be a problem. If there is no game for extended periods, the hawk can get frustrated and sometimes they take it out on the dog. Sometimes they will rake over the dog, sometimes they may bind to the dog. It all depends on the hawk. Plenty of flushes helps to cement the relationship between dog and hawk. Be careful that the dog doesn't bump the hawk off a kill, and once on a kill, always give the hawk some space as they can be protective of their kills especially with nosey dogs if it gets too close.
  12. Many years ago I used a Lakeland terrier for bushing out rabbits and moorhens for my Harris Hawk. As Pointer stated above, there is always the risk of the dog going to ground. I suppose a lot depends on the dog in question. A lot of American hunters use Jack Russell types with their Redtails or Harris' for bushing.
  13. This may be a daft question, but why does your friend not sell the pup himself instead of getting a "mate" to sell for him? As if he sells it himself, he can vet any potential customer and also give all the relevant information. Just curious.
  14. Sorry to hear about your friend. Is there someone to look after them in the meantime until they are sold? Good luck with the sale? You could also advertise them on Birdtrader, IBR,and Facebook as well.
  15. Barry I tend to agree with your opinion regarding the older generation and their dogs. Unfortunately times have moved on and for a lot of people, they see breeding dogs as a way of making money. Some breeders, though not all have the interest of their breed at heart and ensure they breed the best dog they possibly can, eg some breeders will travel into Europe to get a particular stud dug for their bitch. It may or may not be anything special, but I can understand why they charge £600 or £700. At the end of the day, the price is determined by what people will pay. PS I do NOT breed d
  16. david901

    Big Ask

    There are quite a few owls for sale on Facebook. Loads of different sites. Also try IBR birdmart. https://www.(!64.56:886/groups/BIRDSOFPREYFORSALE/?ref=bookmarks https://www.(!64.56:886/groups/520380351349458/
  17. Hi mate, You need to decide what you need from a terrier. That will be difficult if you have limited experience........ Some terriers are good at bolting foxes - good in difficult to dig places. Some are good at killing a fox, and others will stay with the fox until it is dug out. You should speak to as many blokes as you can and figure out what you require, then try and find someone who breeds that type of terrier. Cheers
  18. Also you need to consider that a responsible breeder will have the dog and bitch Hip Displasia tested that cost about £200 for each parent. Plus if there any genetic conditions the breed may be prone to, the breeder may have this tested for also, which in turn costs more money. All this adds to the cost of the pup.
  19. Seen pups go from £500 up to £800. There are some that are probably dearer.
  20. david901


    AS above mate. If in doubt seek out someone who knows about them. A good avian vet is what you are after as normal cat and dog vets don't really know a lot about hawks. Or better still get someone who is experienced with BOPs. All the best
  21. If you read Philip Glasier's book or Emma Ford or Martin Hollinshead's Complete Rabbit and Hare hawk, they all have information on housing. Just remember to site so it gets sunlight for part of the day. Somewhere fairly quiet is good as well, but where it can still see what is going on around it.
  22. david901

    Female Harris

    read a few times that is good to keep hh company ..thath helps maintain their normal caracter.... It all depends on the nature of the hawk. If its a good natured and steady hawk, you can keep up a fair bit of contact, BUT seeing as she is aggresive, I would fatten her up and moult her out freelofted in an avairy with minimum contact. Usually the hawk is kept in a seclusion aviary, but not always again it all depends on the nature of the individual bird. All the best.
  23. Very true mate. Not all imprints scream so I'm told. It must just be mine.LOL
  24. Pete Smith's book is ok. I have not heard anything great about the books mentioned in above post. Never read them myself though. On a side note, I have an imprint gos and a parent reared one and to be honest I prefer the parent reared. Cheers
  25. Hi Mate In my opinion, Falconry Centres can be a bit of a joke. Not everyone who works/runs one know what they are doing. If I were you, I would join the Yorkshire hawking club or any other local one. Get out on as many field meets as possible and ask loads of questions. Genuine people will be only too happy to help someone get started on the right path. Beware of advice given on forums as its the same again, not everyone who posts loads of advice on the forums know what they are doing. Read plenty of books such as Glasiers' Falconry and Hawking, Emma Ford's Falconry, just to start
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