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Holdaway

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Everything posted by Holdaway

  1. Try MASH, Jayjays, or any army surplus store. I normally pick mine up in wales or the surrounding area. H
  2. Cheers Talpa. That was my initial thought, but better to ask. H
  3. Well that shows how long I've been away from it all huh? No more Cymag... Bummer. I am in the area around Petersfield, about 20 mins north of Portsmouth if any one can help. Cheers all. H
  4. One more nail in th coffin of country life
  5. We used to use the old X300 parafin flame thrower on rats holes. Those that didn't want to face the dogs stayed down there... We have a gas flame thrower now... havn't used it though. H
  6. I have set my lovely, shiney, new, and wonderful cage traps for the grey tree rats... Jays keep nicking the food. They even managed to set the traps off by digging under the cages, or sticking their dirty great beaks in. I caught one and wrung its neck (with great satisfaction), but one isn't the problem, they bring their mates! Ok, so the question to all you knowledgable peeps out their is... Do I camoflage it? Put leaves, twigs, etc around, on top to hide the bait? Squirrels will find it anyway by smell right? Some of you must have had the same problem at some time, so wh
  7. Ok I have a fox problem...I think. Could be a badger... There are two holes that started out as rabbit holes under a rhodhedendron (if thats how you spell it?). The mother inlaw filled them in and trod it down to see if foxy was using said holes. Yes, he dug it out again - but! He didn't leave any tracks! The holes are in such a position that the one recently dug out, is almost impossible to get a good look at, and the obvious one is still filled in. Any road up! If it turns out to be charley, I can't snare cause of the cats. Airguns don't work on elephants. Sooooo... a
  8. Thats it. Had enough. Took all my pro victors down for a paint job. Below is the latest in a long line of unwanted quarry doing acrobatics in my traps. This last one was caught by the tail only and still died of shock. Below is my attempt at camoflage... I will also move the traps slightly higher to try and deter the owl food.
  9. Try something like this. Below is a link to JayJays They have all the kit you need for camoflage http://jayjaysbrecon.co.uk/index.html H
  10. Hi all. Titanium is the answer. Damnably expensive though. Wont rust, lightweight, lasts forever. Some one could ask for one to be made up by a blacksmith/engineer. I used to be a machine operator/engineer in another life, but don't have the tools or equipment. And titanium is too expensive for me to experiment with anyway. Great topic though! H
  11. Well I have made a couple of traps now, and found a way of not using springs to close the door. The door is free falling with a lock bar to stop it being pulled/pushed open by the incumbent. I made a double ender last night and got one of the pesky Jays that have been stealing my squirrel bait. I have posted a couple of pics below for your perusal. Tomorrow will be a much better trapping day! Is it possible to use a Jay in a similar fashion to a magpie call bird? I should imagine it is. If I get another, I might knock up a larson... Anyway, I ha
  12. He must know my Grandad. When I was about six, my dad told me that during the first world war, grandad shot 99 germans with a foot bow and one arrow. The arrow went clean through the first 98 and stuck solid in the last. Why not a hundred? said I. What? You'd make me out to be a liar for the sake of one german? Reminds me of the guy at school who had the most powerful air rifle in the county. Apparently he had fitted it with a shot gun spring... H Keep smiling folks
  13. Hi Duckwing, Snareman. It was an unusual catch, I had another today excatly the same - or so I thought. However, if you look closely, you will see that it was taken across the small of the back which of course shattered, allowing the front of the body to fall down. Duckwing, the tunnel entrance is about a half an inch larger than the mesh although it does look bigger from the pics, not too sure if this would be the cause, but you never know. I think maybe I haven't set the trap fine enough, so that small things like mice and rats get quite far in before triggering. I am using mo
  14. Yep Monkey nut was the bait. I don't use the pan for the bait, I put the bait behind the springs, which is held in place by the cocking wire. That way, they have to cross the pan the get to the bait. I have had instances where the bait has gone with no kill when using the pan. I think it was Jays...little buggers! Not any more though since moving the bait further back. H
  15. [quote Just a small question to all you experts so that us beginners can get it right," Do you have to inspect traps hourly,daily, weekly.or not at all. The law states that all traps, snares etc must be inspected every 24 hours minimum. I often check squirrel traps and rat traps twice a day. Especially if they are in a new area. H
  16. Well it is supposed to guarentee a neck kill everytime. The mesh and a plastic tunnel made from an old 6 pint milk bottle allow the quarry to go in one way only. The design is by GS Waters. Have a read of the article. http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...showtopic=34445 H
  17. Heres my catch today...poor bugger, I don't know how he made it, as the trap is vertical at the base of a tree!! H
  18. As always, Snareman is the man with the answers. Thanks Snareman, I think I will have to set a couple a we have a fox coming up to the farm house now. I saw him today in broad daylight, calm as you like trotting across the paddock. Height and width of setting Snareman please? My Dad used to snare foxes, but I were only a slip o' a lad back then and can't remember. H
  19. Well its made. F*cked up big time though, made the trap opening 7X7 inches as I wanted, but forgot that the 1 inch mesh can't make an internal door of 7X7! Door is 6X6.5 with side bars to prevent outswing. Bodged it but it still works! Got some good clean bends to the corners too, using a piece of straight planking. (below) The gauge was too fine also, 16 gauge wire is VERY soft and was able to bend all wire joints using my fingers. I need thicker guage next time. A few bad photos below to show the thing in general. I used the mobile to take the pics so half are out
  20. Well all, today is the day. Gonna make the cage today and take a few pics, but only with the mobile phone. Well at least I will when it stops pissing it down...
  21. I have to just nod my head to everything already said on here. When we set a trap/snare, it is with the express purpose of killing an animal as quickly as possible. The word humane has little meaning when you see what man has done to man and his surroundings. A sympathetic approach is whats required. If you were trapped or snared (hung for instance) would you rather dangle or have your neck broken? I would opt for the latter. Todays trap and snare designs have in mind the fact that real hunters/country folk hate to see anything suffer. Traps are still being tweeked in every way to ensur
  22. Excellent results Davy. Good clean kills too. H
  23. Yep I see. It would be a bit more work but might be worth it. I will probably build both and test them. At 18 inches long, the treadle would be about 6 or 7 inches from the back of the cage, allowing plenty of room for bait on the internal. External trigger might be more work too. Thanks for all the comments though guys, the more info the better! Does anyone actually have any plans for one of these traps? H
  24. I use the modified Victors, and yes the power increase is useful, but I think the chin bar is the most important thing. The cage of course ensures all head kills, I have had personal advice from Snareman and others and all my traps will now be modified in this way. An unadorned trap will allow the beastie to approach from any angle, limbs, tails, noses all sorts will be struck, but with the cage and the chin bar, its neck break time EVERY time. H
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