Matt
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Everything posted by Matt
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That trap looks damaged in the last picture. It could be that it is bent in such a way as to prevent it opening properly. Send it back to the retailer. You should be able to set a 116 with your hands.
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As someone else has already pointed out, these devices are being misused on a regular and open basis. As far as being a 'useful tool' is concerned, for what? As someone who has worked in pest control and wildlife management all of my life, I see no benefit in blowing up empty mole runs. The law (Wildlife & Countryside Act 1981) is very clear on this. You may not use explosive devices to kill animals. These devices are clearly being marketed as a vermin control method in the UK which is misleading. I set up the petition because I am fed up with our wildlife being indescriminatel
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A little while ago, it was suggested here that we needed a petition to get burrow blasters banned. Here it is: http://petitions.number10.gov.uk/Rodenator/ Please sign the petition, and also post the link to it on as many forums etc as possible.
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Petition now up and running here: http://petitions.number10.gov.uk/Rodenator/ Can I ask people to post the link on as many sites as possible please? Sorry it took so long - I think No10 may have had other things on their minds for the last week or so............. Get signing people!
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And spoll chockers improve posts.............
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I'm not quite sure what 'nervivours' means, but I suspect that you are referring to the fact that rats are neophobic. Neophobia means that they have a fear of any new object, or change in their immediate environment. They will actively avoid anything new, especially a cage trap. To have any chance of success, you need to allow them to get used to it first, and make it dark and inviting. You also need to offer them a good reason to go into the cage. You will have more chance of catching rats in kill traps, as they tend to be 'passive' i.e. you are not asking the rat to do anything ou
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If farlap wants someone to hold his flash bulb while you gals get yer kit off, you only have to ask............ :tongue4:
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I'm seriously considering starting a 'none of the above' party....... but I wont. People have given their lives to give us the vote, it is a shame when people can't be arsed to use it. My advice to anyone who wants a vote to count, but can't bring themselves to vote for a mainstream candidate is to spoil your ballot paper. Just imagine if there were more spoilt ballot papers than counted votes - no candidate could claim a mandate (spoiled papers are counted and declared). As for the BNP............ they may have claimed to have changed, but until non-whites (Gurkas for instance) are
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Chuck that rubbish from Killgerm in the bin and invest in a decent all in one sherrif suit. It'll last you a lifetime and you can actually work in them. They are the ones that the pro beekeepers use. Give Barrettine a ring and speak to Ellen - mention my name, and they will know you are genuine. Barrettine don't publish their prices online, and only deal with pro pesters, unlike some of the other suppliers.
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Just waiting on 'No10 Approval'. As soon as it's on, I'll post details.
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When you order some traps from FlatPack, add on some marker pins. It's easy enough to tie a bit of warning tape to the top and you will find your traps easier. Oh, and BTW, take caps lock off. Writing in block capitals is shouting on forums and considered bad form.
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I've set up the petetion. Further details to follow.......
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An interesting website which shows how much each MP claims: http://msn.shoothill.com/?ocid=today
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Another tip is to buy a decent bee suit. I use a full Sherrif suit, which is far superior to the cheapie jacket and veil types sold by most suppliers. You can suddenly start reacting to stings at any time, I did about three years ago, and I've been doing the little stripey buggers for 20+ years. The Sherrif suit is cool, the hood folds away so you don't have to take it on and off, and best of all, it offers the best protection.
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You'd be better off with a DR5 with two or three poles, and an extending lance from Barrettine. The major problem with the wand is that you can only use it fully extended. Keep the Dustick for emergency use - they are hopeless compared with a DR5 IMO. As far as using very 'strong' products is concerned, Ficam is not particularly toxic, but the active (Bendiocarb) has a habit of 'moving'. In terms of human safety, it's non-persistant, and will go through your system in 24hours. Even if Zinc Phosphide was still available (it was withdrawn due to lack of funds to put it through
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Unfortunately, the common pest control courses fail to teach people enough about different formulations and application techniques Ratsnatcher. I've seen technicians who've come straight off an RSPH course, who have no idea what a crack and crevice treatment really involves and have passed their RSPH. The issue of insecticide application training is woefully inadequate in the pest control industry. Personally, I believe that the PA qualifications are far more suitable for this type of work, and the trainers could learn lots from it. For example, very few pest controllers understand t
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The container only needs to be labelled if you are using it to 'store' the product. In the case of diluted insecticide sprays, if you only mix the quantity you need for the job, you should never have 'left overs' in the application equipment. The only exception to this is Ficam D, which is often used for wasps through a DR5/PD5 large capacity duster. It is more dangerous to keep trying to decant the product in and out of the duster, so my advice to anyone would be to download a copy of the label off the Bayer website, and stick it to the duster. How many pesters actually measure a spray
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Talpa is quite correct. It is an offence under COPRA to use any pesticide differently to the label specification. 'Breaking' the teabag sachet of ficam W is both illegal, and dangerous. Either buy the larger tubs, which allow you to vary your mix quantities, or use a different product. Just out of interest, what are you using the product for? Wettable powders have their advantages in certain situations, e.g. on porus surfaces, but there are plenty of other forumulations which are very good for carpeted areas etc. 'Deltamethrin' is a very useful active, available in SC (suspen
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Happy Birthday! You zider swilling, poaching little shit. Have a goodun............ Matt.
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Great attitude! If you come on here and post rubbish, you should expect some critisism. I've offered advice, and suggested more clarification, but you don't seem interested. Your loss............
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Try Trapworks, www.trapworks.co.uk
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Most humane, or most efficient? As Stubby says, it depends on the situation as well. I would also differentiate between hunting with hounds, and hunting with dogs (IMO there is a huge difference between 17 and a half couple of foxhounds killing a fox, and a single lurcher). You also need to differentiate the methods a bit more. Snaring, Cage Trapping, Shooting with a centrefire rifle, shooting with a shotgun etc... Oh, and next time you are in college, look up the spelling of the word 'before'........... lol
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Snares get some bad press Here Some mad veggie comments below as well................
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I kill everyone I find, as prolonged suffering over days until death isn't real nice... That is my whole point Ian. People are too quick to presume that the rabbits will die. In many cases, they recover, and are then carrying some immunity to the disease. all you will do by running them over is spread it more How will running them over spread it more? Myxamatosis is a virus spread by fleas (mosquitos originally), and physical spread is very difficult.
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Does everyone kill myxied rabbits they find? I used to, but someone correctly told me that if they survive, they pass on immunity. Ever since then, I've left them alone. Harsh on the ones that don't make it, but better for the population in the long run. Comments?
