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3 hours ago, W. Katchum said:

Takes years to learn to weld properly? How fcuking much welding do you actually need doing? Pay somebody to do it properly. Especially on the 4x4 if you taking kids in it,  I thought about learning gor all the gear an more in workshop  at work but what fcuk is point, pay the welder and enjoy doing sumat else ? 

I've bought a jimny and the main rust problems are the jack storage area commom fault.and under the rear wheel area at the back

The wheel area was the size of your finger nail on each arch.

He quoted me £500 for the work.

I'm not paying that mate.

I've allways been under the impression of.if someone else can do it I can also with practice.

And I disagree that it takes years mate.

I've removed the rear seats and am planning on boarding it out.

It will never have rear seats again

So just want to weld it to the best of my ability and pass the mot.

I can do most things on a car.

Even change an engine or clutch etc. 

Everyone has got 2 arms mate and me and you have aswell..

 

 

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I try to avoid buying 4x4s that need welding doing they have a habit of making you chase your tail ? Better off paying a little extra for something solid saves a lot of time and heartache. W

I’m no expert but just talking from personal experience use the mig for the cars then get a cheap arc for when your going to start on structural stuff with heavier gauge steel ?

Just get some bits of scrap and play around all sets have there own quirks and if using an extension lead make sure it’s fully unrolled or it will melt there you go your off oh and get a 4” grinder to

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13 hours ago, Chid said:

Some people spend years welding and never learn to do it properly ?.. 

 

I did my ASME9 40+ years ago, I never mastered MIG and I've used some good profesional machines, I suck at it ? will use gas, MMA or TIG over MIG any day ?

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I try to avoid buying 4x4s that need welding doing they have a habit of making you chase your tail ?

Better off paying a little extra for something solid saves a lot of time and heartache.

Welding motor vehicles is a dirty time consuming horrible job in particular 4x4 chassis.

Edited by joe ox
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23 minutes ago, Balaur said:

I'd probably avoid it as if you over apply or it gets in joint you'll have porosity. You can get tip dip for nozzle but I'd probably leave everything clean, sometimes a tip will last month's sometimes you get burn back and it's over before you begin lol

I've only ever used it in the nozzle to avoid spatter build up anyway, never been told to apply to a work piece, tip dip sounds good ?

15 minutes ago, joe ox said:

I try to avoid buying 4x4s that need welding doing they have a habit of making you chase your tail ?

Better off paying a little extra for something solid saves a lot of time and heartache.

Welding motor vehicles is a dirty time consuming horrible job in particular 4x4 chassis.

Trouble with any car welding is trying to get a comfortable position, half the time your on your back in tight spaces, jig welding on a table is a whole better scenario ?

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1 minute ago, Gav said:

I've only ever used it in the nozzle to avoid spatter build up anyway, never been told to apply to a work piece, tip dip sounds good ?

Trouble with any car welding is trying to get a comfortable position, half the time your on your back in tight spaces, jig welding on a table is a whole better scenario ?

That's for sure Gav. I would sooner re chassis or put a new half chassis on a 4x4 these days as patch them up every time the mot is due.

 

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1 hour ago, Balaur said:

I try and avoid cars but... Clean metal as much as possible, don't weld too cold practice on thin sheet, probably easier to blip the weld as opposed to attempting long runs, be aware of fire at all times. Gas should be around 12lpm easier with a flow meter on gauge, if it gets to hot let it cool right down before going again else you'll have to keep adjusting amps, a grinder with one mil slitting discs and a sanding flapper disc will be your friend, atb Joe

Yea I've got some cutting disc and the flapper discs.but the flapper discs are a little to big. And have to take the guard of the angle grinder to use them.

Some good info though mate cheers ?

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13 hours ago, ArchieHood said:

gripfill and primer......never fails.

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Within 30cm of a body mount it has to be solid.so little holes in that area are a fail mate.

I've allways fancied being able to weld so now I'm finally giving it a go.

Eventually I want to extend a car trailer upwards into a box trailer.with angle etc.

As the price between the 2 is crazy.

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8 hours ago, king said:

Within 30cm of a body mount it has to be solid.so little holes in that area are a fail mate.

I've allways fancied being able to weld so now I'm finally giving it a go.

Eventually I want to extend a car trailer upwards into a box trailer.with angle etc.

As the price between the 2 is crazy.

I’m no expert but just talking from personal experience use the mig for the cars then get a cheap arc for when your going to start on structural stuff with heavier gauge steel ?

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On 12/03/2020 at 15:54, king said:

Right ive bought a snap on 130 turbo mig welder.

Picked up a 10litre 95/5 argon/co2 bottle yesterday.ordered a regulator.

And have 0.6 wire. 

Is that a decent set up for car body work etc. 

I'm new to welding and have read a bit on the net.the above is what I've read is the way to go.

I'm wanting to weld a few holes in a 4x4 and make a dog guard for the jeep.

The amp power and wire speed etc.

It's a lot to learn.

Any tips or videos etc to watch.

Cheers king..

Just keep practicing , make sure you work at a comfy speed. Keep your wire speed at a comfortable speed , play with power and speed setting and trying to weld from left to right right to left , ( on flat work ) see which you find suits you better , make sure your shroud is close enough so the gas hits the work but not to close so that the shroud fills with shit....otherwise your work will look like what we call( pigeon shit ). 

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37 minutes ago, Greyman said:

I’m no expert but just talking from personal experience use the mig for the cars then get a cheap arc for when your going to start on structural stuff with heavier gauge steel ?

I've got a german MMA digital dc inverter for £300 its the mutts nuts 20A - 300A (MMA is arc/stick), Its only good for 2.5mm - 25mm steel though, even at 20A and 1.6mm sticks it will blow holes in car body work.

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10 minutes ago, Balaur said:

I've welded body work with 3.25s using my cebora but it's a dab process then, and you need a tight arc with smaller rods, and you need decent rods too, and you ain't welding nothing at 20 amps imho....

I've never tried, I was stating matter of fact lowest it will go ? all depends on work piece smallest rods I have is 2.5 6010/11's, Main ones I use are 4's and 5's 7018's

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1 hour ago, Elchapo said:

Just keep practicing , make sure you work at a comfy speed. Keep your wire speed at a comfortable speed , play with power and speed setting and trying to weld from left to right right to left , ( on flat work ) see which you find suits you better , make sure your shroud is close enough so the gas hits the work but not to close so that the shroud fills with shit....otherwise your work will look like what we call( pigeon shit ). 

Good info there mate.the gas regulator is due tomorrow.i will have a few hrs in the garage then.and post a few pics of my mess lol.

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13 hours ago, Gav said:

DId anyone mention anti spatter spray? Good to stop your nozzle clogging up ?

Even better Gav when you spray it onto your material when in dip mode... keeps the spatter off!!!

Get a tub of tip dip for the hot nozzle mate.. works wonder... i keep one at the side of the bed...??

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