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Re-Call Help To Saluki Owners


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Hi chaps and chappettes!

 

Iv got a new bitch, got her at 9 months (a difficult age I know)

Beautiful bitch she is, smart as a button and just in general nice to hang out with you know.

Anyway, Iv got her to 'wait'! And down with hand signals. She sits on her own but won't be trained to, Iv tried everything, also she won't come if off the lead.

 

So my question is, any pointers on re-call?

Iv tried,

1) using a long lead and tit bits- not food interested so never worked.

2) hiding (bit odd I know, but I tried once with a saluki who wouldn't come back) really worked- not with her though.

3) tried rewarding with praise ( worked with my last saluki)-nothing

Any other ideas?

It's weird because I can get her to stay and lay down on a walk (off the lead) with commands and hand signals but not fr decent re-call.

I always have to give the command to 'wait' then go and put her on a lead.

I'm not in-experienced with saluki saturated dogs at all, she just drives me round the end with it.

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I have used a lure with these types with great results. Saluki types are very chase focused. Use a lure in the same way a falconer calls in his bird, but pull a bit of rabbit skin along the ground ins

Forget titbits bud , all food by hand ,   Pups that's age are still establishing their own world which depends on how she feels about things in her environment, including you   Dogs are readil

lol its a saluki they have a built in geene it is " selective hearing"

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Best way to do it is kill dog an buy a proper lurcher hahaha

 

 

Only jesting mate, or am i hahahaha

 

 

 

 

My advice is keep doing what ye doing if ye want but ye wasting ye time, id work the dog, obviously under control to start with but give dog a job an it will associate youbwith hunting/graft an will then do as ye say, but remember its a saluki, not a collie haha

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Just carry on she likely bit immature still, they can be sensitive and she msybe picking up from you that your dressing around recall , bearing in mind the leash usually signals end of the fun for the dog, I think you have done real well teaching hand signals etc , stick with it and recall will come

 

Try hiding from her and just go where you want don't make an issue , once she realise it's no issue she will soon come back no chew , likesay immaturity likely the problem , starting working can also help sometimes , good luck patience key

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Forget titbits bud , all food by hand ,

 

Pups that's age are still establishing their own world which depends on how she feels about things in her environment, including you

 

Dogs are readily trainable at home but take them out and your dealing with another state of behaviour , namely instinctive and when a dog is functioning on instinct it can't reference its gut , which is what you want to trigger , if it can ingest food it can relax in its environment same as a dog left at kennels might not eat for a few days because it's solely focused on staying alive , the gut will only kick in when the dog feels more chilled ,

 

If you can get the dog walking to heel to feed while out , bark on command to feed , making physical contact with its feet up on you it will have to give up fear , it can't have two conflicting states of mind operating at the same time its impossible for a dog

 

Hunger overcomes fear, food oils the social cogs, don't discipline in your space and get the pup grow in its confidence around you by building trust Trust is like a muscle it grows and develops if you let it

Edited by Casso
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You need to bond with them i find, hiding is great, works for me. Bonding is better, when you get them from a pup, 6 to 10 weeks old i find. They need to know, that your fun to be around with and if they get bored, and your allways putting them on the lead with no reward, its adios amigo...lol

 

As articgun says, patients is the key, i am far from an expert on this matter, just going by may passed experiences on them. :thumbs:

 

desertbred and articgun on here are the ones that would know more than me, especially desertbred who has had them all his life. :good:

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I have used a lure with these types with great results. Saluki types are very chase focused. Use a lure in the same way a falconer calls in his bird, but pull a bit of rabbit skin along the ground instead of twirling it in the air. This works in two ways: firstly, that the dog is attracted to the bit of fur which it tries, and is allowed to, grab, once it has reached you. Secondly, by being part of the game, you, as the instigator, become more interesting to the dog. Little game of tug at the end when the dog is close to you. Have a second lure ready to divert dog off the first if it won't let go when told to. But what the whole process says to the dog is that it can be in hunt mode, focused, at the same time as being close to you. You become part of the process, and not just someone who gives orders. Energy flows between you both: feel good situation for both of you.

I've seen some shut down dogs take weeks to even flick an ear and show interest< keep at it. And keep hand feeding too as Casso says.

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Hows about teaching it a turn whistle. Couple of peeps and turn about and walk off in the other direction. Will catch on pretty quick especially if the other direction is an interesting one. Then once that is working occasionally give a turn whistle but just crouch down and the dog will automatically come flying back. I use a couple of peeps for a turn and recall. Seems to have worked out well. First few times you could even use a line and give the dog a little pop as you change direction so it gives a nice sharp spin about. Just a thought

Edited by terryd
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Forget titbits bud , all food by hand ,

Pups that's age are still establishing their own world which depends on how she feels about things in her environment, including you

Dogs are readily trainable at home but take them out and your dealing with another state of behaviour , namely instinctive and when a dog is functioning on instinct it can't reference its gut , which is what you want to trigger , if it can ingest food it can relax in its environment same as a dog left at kennels might not eat for a few days because it's solely focused on staying alive , the gut will only kick in when the dog feels more chilled ,

If you can get the dog walking to heel to feed while out , bark on command to feed , making physical contact with its feet up on you it will have to give up fear , it can't have two conflicting states of mind operating at the same time its impossible for a dog

Hunger overcomes fear, food oils the social cogs, don't discipline in your space and get the pup grow in its confidence around you by building trust Trust is like a muscle it grows and develops if you let it

Stupid question, re hand-feeding. What about 'bloat'?

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