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IM SHAW YOU WOULD OF SEEN THIS BUILDING UP,,,, IT SHUD OF BIN NIPPED IN THE BUD MONTHS BACK,,, DONT TAKE THIS THE WRONG WAY BUT THE AMOUNT OF PEOPLE WHO IVE BIN OUT WITH,,THEY SAY THEY DO THIS AND THA

It's a stage. They call it the 'flight' stage, which seems to me to be the wrong term. I call it the AWOL stage. You'll get through it but ONLY if you do not punish the dog. This is not being soft, fo

It hasn't 'gone wrong' as such. The dog is just going through a stage in its life where it feels the need to assert its independence and its prey drive has kicked in big time. You have to work through

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I have used a long lead in the past to good effect, but you can surely damage the dog if it runs full pelt and your hanging onto the end of the rope. It seems to be frowned upon by a lot of people but isn't a shock collar a better solution than a long lead.? If a shock collar is used at the correct setting and used properly they are an excellent piece of kit.

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Reward based training all the way. I had this issue in the past with a col/whip dog I once had, around 14 months old he turned deaf when let off his lead.

 

The way I sorted it was by using an acme whistle, a 25 meter rope, and plenty of treats in my pocket.

 

Spend day conditioning the dog to the whistle by tooting it and giving a small treat. Repeat this so the dog starts to associate the whistle with a treat. Only do this for about a minute at a time, about 4 times throughout the day, and keep treats small but tastey (I used half finger nail sized pieces of cocktail saussage)

 

In the evening take the dog out on the rope. Only allow about 5 meters of slack to begin with. When the dog has wondered off in front, whistle and reward on return. Repeat this a few times during your walk, allowing a little more slack so she can wander a bit further. Do this for a week incorporating some retrieving and playing around to make it fun for the dog, and you will see results pretty quickly. You will know when to attempt it without the rope.

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Jiggy totally agree with you but many things can ruin a dog if done incorrectly. I'm not talking about zapping the dog constantly just at the right time and just at the setting where the dog is irritated by the shock and not hurt. There is definitely a fine line from using one correctly and ruining your dog.

Edited by Allan P
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E collar training always brings strong reactions out in people and some of those people don't think twice about grabbing and scruffing a dog but frown about the very mention of e collars

 

The truth of it is when you grab a dog, you are totally responsible for the negetive feedback the dog allocates to it but with the collar you are not ,

 

It's the same as anything else, like a knife in the hands of a surgeon it can work wonders but in clumsy hands can cause destruction and mayhem ,

 

The single most important thing about the e collar is , the dog must f***ing love putting it on , party time , good times ahead is what the dog must be feeling only then can the dog relate to the negetive of the e collar as a path to the positive of work , the shock is then just a bend in the road not a dead end , in other words it's not just to shock the drive out of the dog its to show it what to do with its drive , to make it more cooperative in the hunt and there is nothing a dog wants more than that ,

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E collar training always brings strong reactions out in people and some of those people don't think twice about grabbing and scruffing a dog but frown about the very mention of e collars

 

The truth of it is when you grab a dog, you are totally responsible for the negetive feedback the dog allocates to it but with the collar you are not ,

 

It's the same as anything else, like a knife in the hands of a surgeon it can work wonders but in clumsy hands can cause destruction and mayhem ,

 

The single most important thing about the e collar is , the dog must f***ing love putting it on , party time , good times ahead is what the dog must be feeling only then can the dog relate to the negetive of the e collar as a path to the positive of work , the shock is then just a bend in the road not a dead end , in other words it's not just to shock the drive out of the dog its to show it what to do with its drive , to make it more cooperative in the hunt and there is nothing a dog wants more than that ,

for me the only good thing with e/collar , would be to stop a dog in full flight after a sheep , give it a wack with it then. I ve never had to use a e/collar for anything , as even in stock training I rather get on the dog as quick as I can reprimand it then, but if a situation did happen and the dog was out of reach I can se the benefit of one. but I do think of all breeds of dogs a lurcher is prob the last type of dog I would use it on , as lurchers by there very nature are very sensitve /wimpy temp, and you could fook it up good and proper , it could be to scared to move from your side . :yes: ive seen a big strong male lab on a shoot on when I was beating , and he was very good dog , but some times he go and pick up another guns shot bird, which the owner didn't like , and he had a e/collar on it stopped him but only after few good wacks from the collar, if that had been a lurcher or my dogs they never had got out of the motor lol. I didn't really agree with it as the dog was only doing his job , but he was bit over keen :D , I wouldn't use one deff not on a lurcher but they have there uses I suppose as a last resort .

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Like most with animals things have to be done in the correct situation and like most of us we all different these e collars eye have saved more than one animal from the cull , idiots that Cana even work out there anomal and don't know the meaning of bonding well at times they be best with the e collar.atb bunnys.

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If you use a lunge line, attach it to a padded harness to save the dog's neck and link the harness to the collar with a strap in case the dog slips out of the harness. I have retrained older dogs using this. Great for stock training and teaching recall.

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