Garn
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Everything posted by Garn
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WANTED STOKE ON TRENT. BREEZE BLOCKS
Garn replied to gsi2000stokie's topic in Optics and Night Vision
Try builbase or another builders merchants. They deliver foc, and 100mm blocks are generally less than 20p each (10 blocks/ m2) -
Lamped hares imo, are easier than day time hares, though are by no means easy. If your dog can get the turns in and turn them downhill then jobs more often than not a fish, especially if the field's "walled" by ditches. If the hare gets into one of it's runs and heads uphill then you've two hopes. However, dogs I know have had more succesful catches on lamped hares than rabbits early in their careers. Imo, the rabbit though is by no means an easy quarry (when you don't pick and choose your dog's runs that is).
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You'll no go wrong with Dave's dogs that's for sure
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I always encourage my dogs to jump, as it easier than lifting them over fences and gates etc. Also, when out lamping often rabbits are spotted sitting out in the field the otherside of the fence. So all it takes is the dog to jump over the fence and then jump back. As to the dog pushing off the top rail with its back feet, it'll learn what a top strand of wire or barbed wire is like, and just leap over to avoid it. Saying that, I was out one day why my dog was a pup and he got his leg caught in some sheep fencing whilst trying to push through, never have I heard a dog yelp so much, hence I lik
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Colour doesn't matter in the slighest. if it did wouldn't i.e all gamebred bull terriers and greyhounds be the same colour?
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lol, someone must know what he was legendary at. Every other whippet and whippet cross advertised has him in their so called pedigree
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This season I've entered my colliex and couldn't wish for better. Although he doesn't have the determination of a bull x, he's turning into a good all round dog, and works his quarry well. Injuries have been minor with 2 week layoffs being the worst so far just for cuts and bruises etc. It's a joy just watching him progress and learn his quarry.
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I'll ditto SJM on that one. Terrain type and quarry spiecie(s) run in a night out can also have variable effects upon stamina imo. A dog maybe able to do how ever many miles behind a bike, but when it's out lamping, twisting and turning for several hours with short breaks between, then a completely different kind of stamina and fitness shows.
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The eye colours seem to change all the time to me. If you see one little eye it's a rabbit, though some times it can be a hare. If you see two saucer like eyes then generally its a fox. Then a big single eye or a big face saying, duh, then its a deer! The light illuminates them enough to tell before you run them. If you can't see what they are before you run them... get some glasses and good luck!
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The easiest rabbit to catch for a young dog apart from a myxied rabbit is lamped one in a dry stone walled area. When the course is on, the rabbit can't find its runs as easy and the young dog has greater chance of catching and learning of how the rabbit runs. That said, let the dog run day time rabbits and plenty of them so he/ she knows what obsticles present what hazard,therefore at night that little bit of extra learning can save your dog so to speak from injury. Make sure their recall is good, and they will soon twig that lamp off means heel. If you're a good trainer and have spent time w
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I'd have to be hard pushed (but may well do) to sell even one of my best ferrets for £-£100 let alone my lurcher!
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All I know about this "strain" is that they're a mish mash of dogs, and GB is trying to recreate what looks like the imfamous smithfield lurcher. If in a litter the a dog doesn't turn out looking like what a tumbler should be it isn't classed as a tumbler yet has the same genes (doesn't line up in my lines of thought). lurcher x lurcher cross as far as I'm concerned that has a fair bit of publicity so higher pricers are charged for the pups. You pay your money and take your pick
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Try doing recalls with her (in the daylight) and if she doesn't come back straight away hide from her so she gets into a panic as you've disappeared. or just hide and give her a whistle, this should work or at least help I've always worked like this and my hound 9 times out of 10 comes back to hand as soon as the lamp goes off. Saying that though, she's still just a pup!
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I use the hooped type metal tent pegs, never failed me yet. They're long enough to get a hold in the ground, and narrow enough to get between stones and roots, and go straight in more or less in frozen ground.
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8 ft is the deepest I've ever dug and never again. To make things worse when I was pulling the rabbit out, some random bloke with an eye patch and a spaniel appeared and asked me what I was doing! I was in the middle of nowhere, and couldn't be seen from footpaths or roads. I tell people where I'm going now! The most i'll dig these days is 3 to 4 feet, but that's only if I've really had enough and want to go home. I reckon that more a warren is ferreted the more the chances of the ferret holding up
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bullyson, keep us updated with your polecats. Hob ferrets as a rule are indifferent rat hunters, so it would be interesting to see how the hob polecat goes on. An interesting project to follow....
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With the mix of collie and greyhound genes its perfectly feasible to get a greyhound sized dog in the same litter as a collie sized dog
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I would love to see someone take a 100 rabbits in a night, though I genuinely can't see it myself. 30's & 40's taken regularly, I reckon are enough to test the dog. Anymore and you're just risking ruining your hound for no necessary reason. If the dog was capable of doing it, it would be nice to see the dog without any permenant internal or external injuries. Not saying it can't be done, but I would have to see it to believe it. Out of curiosity, how many hares have people taken with a single dog on a lamp in a night? Has the magic 27 been reached?
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With regards first cross lurcher pups, I personally wouldn't be too bothered if the parents weren't working (although it would help) providing the working blood i.e. coursing greyhound, working collie, gamebred bull, is directly there. Saying that, once the mix starts going lurcher to lurcher, there's less probability on what you're going get height/ physique wise, hence the working blood (baseline) of the lurcher x lurcher, becomes more important. I'm a collie cross man and other blokes I know are either collie x or bull x. We all know the pros and cons of our dogs and chose what dog's best f
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hell, my faithful hound was always digging up the lawn, to the state that it looked worse than the aftermouth of the battle of the somme! And the digging was done in winter when grass seed wouldn't take! Your pup should theoretically grow out of it, but until then just keep it supervisied! Good luck
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i'll enter my kits from 16 weeks onwards (to rabbits) and never had any problems
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Willrennyferreter, out of curiosity why should you chose a kit with a wide head?
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Choose the ones that don't bite or nip! If you don't know the strain of ferret your getting you can't predict the end size. The size of the parents is helpful, though not guaranteed as to the size in adulthood of the off spring. Then after that , if you like them choose them. You pay your money and take your pick with ferrets.
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A politicans answer for you. The box needs to be small enough to stay warm in the colder months, but be big enough to be cool in the summer months and long enough to allow the ferrets to stretch out when they want to in the comfort of the box. Thus, the size depends on the building materials to be used and their thermal properties, though when building new cubs, I always allow for enough room for the ferrets to stretch out in the nest box and enough room width wise to allow the intended number of ferrets to ball up together without touching the sides of the box. 12"x12"x8" I'd say would be fin
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SL, listen to what your vet tells you and make your own judgements, generally they know what they are on about, though some do err on the side caution, too much for my own likings at times, and two vets may give you different views on the same matter! What you read on some of these posts more often than not with regards amatuer veterinary care isn't always correct! James MacKay has a good section in his ferreting book with regards ferret welfare that is bang on in being factual and correct.
