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Everything posted by Coypu Hunter
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The V-Mach's a good kit, and easy to fit -- you don't need a spring compressor.
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The only single-screw mounts I've ever had came with a Nikko Stirling Mountmaster -- a small scope I got for a pistol, I think it was a 4X20 or something. Very flimsy, so I quickly replaced them. While there isn't much recoil at all with a .22LR, I just feel that the extra area of friction provide by a twin-screw mount will keep everything where it's supposed to be. If the mount doesn't come with a strip of adhesive inside the rings, I normally put some double-sided sticky tape in there as well. Once I've fitted and levelled a scope, then zeroed it, I don't want to be faffing about wit
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In .177 with a FAC V-Mach kit it's capable of 6-7mm groups at 33 yards, 10-12mm at 45 yards, 20mm at 65 yards. If you're planning to use it for hunting though, be aware that it weighs a ton! Try before you buy, as with any rifle, even if it's only shouldering the gun. Alternatives would include the AA TX200, which is allegedly as good straight out of the box as a 97 after it's been fettled, but I've never owned a TX, so couldn't say. There's also the new Walther LGV (I think it's called) which is also supposed to be super-accurate straight out of the box.
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Try the Weihrauch Owners' Forum, there are quite a few collectors on there.
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Two questions: 1) Are you taking the scope off for transport? If so, your zero will always be out. 2) Are those the scope mounts you're using? They look like single-screw mounts. If there's only one screw on each side at the top, and one of them was loose, then yes, your zero would be affected. I personally would throw those mounts away. I've found that quick-release mounts simply don't grip the rifle's dovetail tightly enough. I also would never use mounts with just one screw to hold the scope steady. Invest in a good-quality one-piece mount like a Sportsmatch, and that might cure
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Lower-end scopes, particularly those with one-inch tubes, tend to use a leaf spring to hold the erector tube in place. Better scopes, and most scopes with 30mm tubes, use a more robust mechanism which stands up better to recoil.
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Something strange going on there, Cedric. Did you transport the rifle in the car again? Go over any major bumps? If not, you may have a loose reticle, in which case the scope will need fixing or replacing.
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I'd certainly check my zero before shooting at that distance... You may find that the car journey nudged the zero a little off, or like Celtic says, a sneaky gust of wind downrange may have done for you...
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I agree, but then I shoot on my property and my rifle hangs in an alcove in our mud room, handy for when I need it, and doesn't get knocked around. If I were driving to a shooting ground though, I'd probably check zero before setting out from the car to stalk anything -- there's always a chance that the scope's been nudged slightly off zero during transport.
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Shows what he knows then, I have a mate who has never cleaned his .222 in around 18 years of owning it, and it is still a very very accurate rifle, more rifles have been ruined by over enthusiastic "cleaning" than shooting. Makes you wonder why there is bore solvent, copper remover, brushes, rods, etc etc etc.............. apparently nothing needs cleaning? :hmm: I know its amazing what crap the gun trade spout to sell their products isn't it? :hmm:and as for a pull through ruining the crown well I make mine from fly fishing line, love to see that damage a crown Exactly.
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I said "session", not "season", ya pillock. Shoulda gone to Specsavers. The problem is likely to be a wounded wabbit running around screaming if you don't zero before a session. Or is that not a problem for you?
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You'll find a ring of carbon deposited inside the breech, just beyond where the end of the .22 casing sits. The build-up will be sticking to the empty case, making it difficult to extract. I'd never use a wire brush though. Blast some Ballistol into the breech (or WD40, or 3-in-1 oil) until it runs out of the muzzle. Leave it to soak in for a while. Then run some patches soaked in Ballistol through the barrel from chamber to muzzle until they come out clean. Follow up with a couple of dry patches until they come out completely clean and dry, and you're good to go. For a pull-through, I
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Smear a very fine layer of gun grease anywhere the bolt seems to be rubbing (you'll see the marks) and that should smooth it out.
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No!!! Clean your .22LR after EVERY SESSION!!!!! Just kidding. I don't find the bolt face clogs up, but after a couple of hundred shots, you will find there's a ring of carbon build-up inside the breech, just beyond the chamber. If you keep shooting beyond that point, you can even feel bits of carbon being dragged out of the chamber with the empty casing. A blast of Ballistol down the barrel, then a few patches through it until they come out clean, sorts it out pretty quickly.
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Which is why you should ALWAYS check zero at the start of a hunting session, BEFORE lining up on any live quarry!
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Like mattybugeye says, don't try to open the breech and complete the cocking action all in one go. Smack the end of the barrel with the palm of your hand to break open the breech. Then grab the end of the barrel and cock the gun. I have a 16 fpe Stoeger gas-rammer which is a bitch to cock, but doing it like that makes it easier. Try doing that. If it's still very hard to cock, and it's a 12 fpe springer, then either you're a complete wimp who only goes to the gym to check out the talent, or there's summat wrong with it.
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Co2, Anyone Else, Or Is It Just Me?
Coypu Hunter replied to RemyBolt's topic in General Airgun Discussion
I know -- I had to buy extra mags for mine, it's so much fun to plink with! -
Co2, Anyone Else, Or Is It Just Me?
Coypu Hunter replied to RemyBolt's topic in General Airgun Discussion
That's a nice collection, johnbaz! I have the Crosman 2240 with the rifle stock and scope mounts added, and a Beretta lookey-likey too. I'm surprised you don't have a Crosman 357 revolver though, or is that on your Christmas list? -
Okay, It's Not Really For Hunting...
Coypu Hunter replied to Coypu Hunter's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
Cheers! When I had the Browning Pro9, the targets looked more like I'd used a sawn-off shotgun! The Hi Power has enough weight to absorb recoil, remain steady in the hand and get back on target quickly. The trigger is nice and light now too, and altogether that makes for a nice, shootable pistol. -
Okay, It's Not Really For Hunting...
Coypu Hunter replied to Coypu Hunter's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
You were right, celticrusader, it seems pretty accurate now I've got the sights there or thereabouts. White dots: 100X Geco standard-velocity 40-grain LRNS in .22LR. Black dots and the holes: 9mm handloads, 125-grain FMJ. I shot the last group of 6 (the holes), after drifting the rear sight back just a hair to the right. The five holes in the black cover about 5 inches, and the group overall was about 8 inches. Happy with that. -
Co2, Anyone Else, Or Is It Just Me?
Coypu Hunter replied to RemyBolt's topic in General Airgun Discussion
I have three CO2 pistols for plinking or for putting down rats in live traps. I used to have an Umarex 850 AirMagnum CO2 rifle too -- superb trigger, very accurate, only let down by the power drop suffered by CO2 in colder weather. -
In my .177 HW97K with FAC V-Mach kit fitted, they equate to 0.5 fpe each. I have two in at the moment, and the rifle is running bang on 13 fpe with JSB Exact Heavies. This will no doubt vary for different rifles/calibres. If you add the second pair included with the kit, plus the thick nylon preload washer that fits over the spring guide, you should get up to 15-15.5 fpe. At that point, the rifle would be pretty difficult to shoot though; at 13 fpe the recoil is manageable, lock time is minimal, and it's deadly accurate out to 45 yards. However, standard-weight pellets (8.6 grains) no
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When it's in you garden and in your crosshairs! You CAN shoot a fox with an air rifle, just like you can shoot a rhino with an air rifle, but the question is whether it's legal, never mind sensible! I'm sure someone will give you a link to the appropriate BASC page which lists which animals require which calibres to be used. As far as I know, air rifles are limited to use on vermin, which as you say is anything up to wabbit size. Animals become "vermin" or "pests" when they are so designated by DEFRA, I believe. I believe it's the same as in France, in that you can shoot any vermi
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Some Advice Please, Anschutz 1517
Coypu Hunter replied to Deker's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
Difficult to know from the wording what the problem is. Is it a Mauser-style bolt? If he means that the strike face of the firing pin is not visible at the bolt face, then it sounds like either gunk inside the bolt or a broken firing pin spring preventing the pin from advancing. Could also be that the spring has somehow slipped out of alignment. A lot would depend on the internal construction of the bolt, so I guess you'll have to take it apart to find out. Good luck! -
How tempted were you to put a pellet through its eye and straight into its brain?
