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PaulEamonn

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Everything posted by PaulEamonn

  1. PaulEamonn
    H Craig Yes that's about right for the part of your permission that has a 30 degree slope. You could even extend that out to 35yds. But the area that's got the 45 degree slope, you'll need to give it a bit on distances past about 20yds. About half a mildot should do it out to 35yds.
  2. PaulEamonn
    Hi Craig If you zero at 25 yds you shouldn't need to hold-under for any shots and, if you're shooting at a target with a 1" kill zone, you should be able to aim on the cross of the reticle when the target is between 15 and 30yds and the POI will (should?) be between the line of sight (where you were aiming with the cross of the reticle) and about 1/4" below the line of sight. On the flat, the only time you'll need to use 'hold-over' (where you're holding the cross of the reticle above the Point of (Intended) Impact) is when you are shooting at something closer than 15yds or further th
  3. PaulEamonn
    Hi Craig I can't see the logic of zero a rifle at any other distance than 25 yds (for trajectory). There is, however, a lot of logic in zeroing a rifle at further for lateral accuracy (windage). The reason I say this is because, according to Chairgun Pro, 25yds is the point at which pellets fired from virtually all air rifles hit but don't break the line of sight. This means that the adjustments you need to make when aiming at a target further than 25 yrds will always require hold-over. Never hold-under. However, if you zero at 35 yds, for example, your pellet will pass through the
  4. PaulEamonn
    Hi Deano According to my calculations on Chairgun Pro, you can go all the way down to 6ft/lbs and still be getting 4.4ft/lbs of energy at 35yds with a 13.4g pellet. Though I suspect that would be the total minimum you'd want to go to as I've heard that it can take between 4-6ft/lbs to get through a bunny's skull. 8.5ft/lbs may be a better minimum to not go below and that will give you 6.3ft/lbs at 35yds. Regarding weight of pellet. As I understand it (and have seen on my own chrono), heavier pellets put through a PCP will record a higher ft/lb reading than when using lighter pellets
  5. PaulEamonn
    Hi Sometimes it's surprising just how big an image is and unless you've got software such as Adobe Photoshop in which you can both re-size an image and reduce the density of the pixels (therefore reducing the size of the file), the only other option is to go online to do it. There are plenty of free sites that will do it for you but there is also the chance that they are baddies and will send back more than just the .jpg. Here is a link to one such site. I have no knowledge of it or the people who run it. It claims to do what you want (provided your image is a .jpg format). Howe
  6. PaulEamonn
  7. PaulEamonn
    Indeed Craig, it's not meant to be critical or negative in any way. That is one of the problems with the written word, it has no inflection. I was more trying to be pragmatic which in this sort of medium is difficult. But what I think I'm trying to get across to Orthendro is - don't try to reinvent the wheel. There are some pretty established ways of getting the things you want whether it be a new permission or killing rabbits and pigeon. These methods have been tried, tested and honed until they work - much like the wheel! The best thing you can do is to learn from those who have had
  8. PaulEamonn
    Well done Darryl. Not just for getting a new permission but, more importantly for all of us, for showing us all in a good light and for representing us all in such a positive and acceptable manner.
  9. PaulEamonn
    Well, one plus for you is that you've obviously taken the time to learn how to shoot your gun. The downside is that you are seriously underestimating the 'dumb' animals whose lives you are trying to take with it. Take a look around this forum and you will see numerous posts written by people who have more hunting experience than you'd believe. Many of them use decoys and lamps. The reason they use them is not to 'play' but to achieve an end. They know that to try and do so without the use of decoys and lamps, getting close enough to your quarry will likely be near impossible especially
  10. PaulEamonn
    Now you come to mention it......... Battery lead - On the back of the camera I noticed that it said 9v. Now not being too up on this sort of thing and being a bit concerned that I was using a 12v battery to power everything, I was worried that the 9v camera would get burnt out by the 12v battery. So I bought one of these and powered the camera direct using a 9v normal battery. Whether I am right or wrong on this, I don't know. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than I will put us straight. Monitor - This isn't exactly the same one as I used but it does the same and it's a bit cheap
  11. PaulEamonn
    Elliott - If you want to go down that route, here is a cheaper option.
  12. PaulEamonn
    Deano - there are quite a few of these around. The one I use is the Pulsar Challenger. I fits to the back of my scope using a DSA (Day Scope Adapter). It's not a bad bit of kit but it's life, due to it being Gen1, is limited. However, I will warn you that I had more than a few problems setting it up to my satisfaction. But, now I've got it sorted, it's does the job and allows me to see eyeshine at 100 yards and identify and shoot bunnies at 40-50 yards. But that is with a good laser IR. The bit of kit that I'm looking at getting once my NV finally bites the dust is one of these. Thi
  13. PaulEamonn
    You're right Ghillies, it doesn't cost much to make up your own NV. As with everything else, it depends on the quality you want and then you get what you pay for. I've recently made up one of the 'Digi Rat Spotters' (I should probably put the copyright sign next to that name!) that Zini developed and showed on Youtube. The whole lot only cost me about 40 quid. All that I'd need to do to change it into a digital NV would be sort out some sort of contraption to hold the camera on the back of the scope and the IR somewhere else. Now, don't get all excited here. I've got to tell you th
  14. PaulEamonn
    If I put my 'diplomatic' hat on I've got to say that I agree with almost all of the suggestions above. What Ruby says is pretty good in that the bloke in the house may not be aware that you've got permission to be there. Therefore, when he sees a light out the back of his house, he may think it's poachers. Equally, he doesn't know that you're only carrying an air rifle and so it unlikely to cause any injury to him, his family or damage to his property. Also what The One suggests is a good idea. In fact, I'd suggest that you carry out this idea first and then, if all is well with the
  15. PaulEamonn
    Looks a bloody sight better than my attempt! Nice job Deano.
  16. PaulEamonn
    Well, it's been nice knowing you, Fieldsports. You will. I'm sure be missed here on the forum. However, in the unlikely event that you survive the post-confessional mauling, I've heard that living on life-support isn't so bad once you adapt. I understand it's the tubes that are the most difficult to come to terms with - not the tubes themselves, you understand - It's where they stick them that's the issue. So good luck with your cathartic outpourings - I wish you well. BTW - I got mine last night. She was out practicing for an hour or so and, when she came in, I enquired how
  17. PaulEamonn
    Sorry if I'm treating you like more of a newbie than you really are, but there is a couple of things that I think you should be aware of before you make your final choice of gun type. As Craig quite rightly says, the best way to start is with a springer. You can buy a better quality springer (for example, an Air Arms TX200 or a Weihrauch) for the sort of money that you'd pay for a medium quality PCP. Should you choose to start off down the springer route, there is no doubt that it will stand you in good stead should you decide to buy a PCP at a later stage. The downside to starting
  18. PaulEamonn
    In my house it's the other way round. I have to watch her when she comes in from wherever she's been to see what she's been squandering my money on. The other day, she'd been down the gun club and, on her way back, she just happened to 'drop into' the local army surplus store. Lo and behold, she walks in wearing a nearly new army jacket thingy. I think she thought she'd got away with it but I sussed on straight away. I just let her get into the house before cornering her and asking the fateful question - How much? After flustering and blustering for what seemed like a long time (a
  19. PaulEamonn
    Personally I use Ballistoil for just about everything, the metalwork and the stock. It seems to do the job for me. As someone once said - it's a good chance that all gun oil comes out of the same barrel. It's just put into container with different names on the front. The chances are you'll try a few and then stick to one you like. Another good one is G96 or you can use Bisley gun oil. So, there you go. That's three different ones to try out. As for servicing, go to Otmoors if you want your gun serviced. Have a word with Mike - he's a real Air Arms devotee and will see you r
  20. PaulEamonn
    Here's the to the same bloke showing how to debone the rabbit. I've got to say that mine usually comes out looking more like an old dish rag than a rabbit. But, once you've wrapped it in the bacon, it all starts to come together.
  21. PaulEamonn
    Just another recipe I'm going to have to try! Here's a link to a rabbit recipe I'm trying this afternoon and here is a link to I found on Youtube. It's a bit fiddly but, if you go to the effort, it's well worth it. Personally, I don't slice up the joint. I just roast it in one lump for about an hour to an hour and a half.....num nums! Also, I just use streaky bacon instead of the pancetta. It's cheaper and, I reckon, it's tastier.
  22. PaulEamonn
    I've got the Varmint. I like it because it has a thicker reticle than other scopes I've used. This fact is useful because it not only helps my old eyes but it's much easier to see the mildots and half mildots at night when I'm using my NV. I was out plinking with it on my HW100 yesterday at out to 60 yards on 10 mag. Some people may find that the mildots cover too much of the target but they didn't seem to stop me getting reasonable groups. I also find the side parallax wheel invaluable - especially when I've got the NV add on attached. It makes adjusting the focus so much easier.
  23. PaulEamonn
    Scissorman - yeah, I use that sort of stud to attach my bipod. The only thing that concerns me is that, when I first started using it, I had to really tighten it up to get the stud properly aligned so as the bipod fitted correctly. Now, after a bit of use, I don't have to tighten it up so much as the barrel band has made an indentation into the inside of the stock. I'm now wondering how long it will be before the stud/barrel band/bipod will all be loose because I can't tighten the stud up sufficiently to hold it all together.
  24. PaulEamonn
    Looks like a fantastic recipe Steve - I'm going to have to give it a try. I especially like the bunny pastry shapes on top of the crust. I reckon it leaves no one in any doubt whatsoever as to what's inside!
  25. PaulEamonn
    Thanks for the heads-up Davy.
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