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Everything posted by skycat
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Too much red meat and tripe will cause loose bowels. As a guide, we are feeding a big Collie cross type 5 month old lurcher pup at the moment and for breakfast he will get half a chicken carcase: that's either the top side with the breast bone and ribs or the underneath which is smaller and more solid. He usually gets a couple of breast of lamb ribby bits for lunch: no bigger than you could fit on the palm of your hand, and its the thin end of the breast of lamb where the ribs are small and thin. For his main meal in the evening he will get about 500grams of either minced rabbit or be
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That really surprises me as my Airedale has incredible stamina: she'll run with the lurchers all day and never looks tired. I know that she's nowhere near fast enough to run down a healthy rabbit on top, but her work ethic is unstoppable: maybe they don't like hot climates?
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Above all keep the dog warm and dry, out of draughts and damp: plenty of warm bedding and a maybe a coat if you think that the dog isn't warm enough. Good quality food: meat based and watch out for dehydration too: many dogs don't like drinking cold water if they don't feel well: add a drop of hot gravy to a small bowl of water and offer to the dog. If dog won't eat due to sore throat then add hot water to a tinned food like Chappie to make a puree. One occasion when I'd feed that stuff! Better still get some cooked chicken, take off bone and stick in a liquidiser with hot water to make
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I can see where you are coming from Whin, but seriously, do you think that anyone would put themselves to all that trouble for just £30 quid? Incidently, why do you say £30? If that would be the cost of one book then you'd be hoping to sell a damn sight more than one copy!!! Also, I've been thinking of doing a book on Lurcher health and maintenance but I've been assured by several publishers that they think it would be a very limited market and barely worth the cost of publishing. My problem is that although I have a fairly extensive knowledge about a lot of things, I am the original j
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His feet will toughen up as he gets older: try and keep him away from the stingers while he's little, though it won't do him any harm unless he chews his paws raw. My dogs usually become immune to nettles by the time they're about 5 months old.
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I reckon they look superb athletic dogs: and look at the feet on them! Tough as old boots I'd say. I just wondered how trainable they are? Or is it just a matter of point and slip? Would they work with ferrets and though I know you said you only lamp them, would you say that they had the potential to use their noses to make good all round mooching/bushing dogs? Just wondering.
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WE were out yesterday on some shoot land: walked the fen and checked the earths: nothing. Came back to the road where we'd parked the vehicles and Silver shot into a 100 metres drain that runs alongside the road: just the other side of the verge. The Airedale was grabbed by the tail just in time to stop her following! This was a big concrete drain: a 10 year old child could have just squeezed in to it. Immediately all hell broke loose: A. stuffed his coat over the hole and the gun man sprinted down the road to the other end just in time to shoot fox no. 1 as it exited on to the road, but o
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:wacko: Maybe feed the dog once in a while??
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amazing how quick a dead rabbit soon loses its appeal when the dog sees another dog getting more live ones Had that problem once or twice: much better to let the dog come to the right decision and give the rabbit up of its own accord once it realises its missing out on more rabbits. A lesson learned like that is worth a year of harsh training methods and is learned much more quickly too. The pinching hind leg skin works for me on most dogs, but to be honest that is only something I've found on very young lurchers just starting: probably too young. Give them a few more mont
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Bonjour Nicholas: comment ca va? Difficile d'ecrire en francais vue que le 'keyboard' n'a pas les accents francais la dessus! Je vous ai envoye un PM.
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If the dog is lacking essential nutrients in its diet, yet you say you can't afford to feed it any better then IMO that dog would be better off in a home which can afford to feed it correctly: you only get out what you put into anything, dogs included. Dogs are not rabbits: they need more than just cereals to be in optimum health: if an owner can't or won't respect that fact then they should be keeping rabbits not dogs. Just my opinion.
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Whin: I know that is a theory with many people: that too many breeds produce a muddle of nothing good: but most lurchers I know, both day and all round dogs, are the result of much mixed breeding. Look at Merlin and Eve line for example: started with Bedlington Greyhound to Airedale Greyhound! All sorts in there over the years.
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I have never known raw (BARF) fed dogs to eat other dog turds: should tell you something! The problem with complete dog food is that there's so many additives in it that the waste, of which there is a lot due to all the cereals they put in it, smells pretty similar to what the dog ate in the first place: and I've known that to smell similar to rancid fat! Ugh!
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Hey, what you will get is a lurcher: there's loads out there with a bit of this and a bit of that in them, and good workers all. I'd be happier getting a pup of someone genuine who works his/her dogs and has put the time and effort into rearing the pups properly than someone who has bred a litter just for the money. Here's a pic of a Collie/Grey x Bull/Grey to a bitsa bitch with Deerhound, Saluki, Whippet and just about everything in her: to me this is a lurcher, and this one's a half way decent working dog: and she was from an accidental litter!
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Beautiful pups: they'll be well socialised won't they! Good luck with them.
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Not necessarily! Just because you have had a problem doesn't mean to say that all dogs will behave the same as yours! Yes, if their status is the same then they will have status disputes:if one is more dominant and the other is happy with its place in life there shouldn't be a problem. Personally I think that dogs are often better together: they are a pack animals after all, BUT much depends on the breeding and type of dog. Some just need their own space too much to want to share. Others are much happier snuggling up together. Exercise together some of the time, but make sure each dog
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A dog for your head and a dog for your heart
skycat replied to WILF's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
Thanks for that update Rabitin Girl: looks a beautiful animal she does. AS far as my nearly all Saluki goes, I'm just glad I'm more intelligent than him as I can still con him into doing what I want 99% of the time: I've just got to be quick about it and I've learned to read the signs that say "There's not enough happening right now, I'm off to look for my own game" LOL Having said that he never buggers off out ferreting: great attention span and dedication. -
A dog for your head and a dog for your heart
skycat replied to WILF's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
That's a great ending to a horrible start: I'd love to hear more about her: how old was she when you got her? Got any pics of her: I'm a sentimental old fool and love to hear happy ending stories LOL -
A dog for your head and a dog for your heart
skycat replied to WILF's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
I know what you mean Whin: I did the robo-dog thing many years ago but moving on to Saluki types changes your attitude a bit! To be honest, hating authority myself and never having been one to feel happy about rules etc, I can really appreciate the Saluki types, and having got older and more patient I am now in a happy place where I can really allow a dog the time to mature and give it the freedom it needs to learn etc. And there is such a HUGE feeling of pride and humility when a Saluki type lets you into its heart: goes and does its thing and then retrieves its catch to you! Yes, -
Totally awesome: that sight stirs the most primitive of hunting instincts: the love of the chase, the 2 species of animals working together: PLEASE do some more!! On another note: you would think that it is a done deal when there is both ground and arial pursuit: do the jacks ever manage to escape in open country like that? Or do they go to ground like some hares do if hard pressed enough?
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That sounds bad news: hope it can be removed safely. You really haven't had a lot of luck have you: my commiserations. I haven't personally had any experience of lumps like this: just keeping my fingers crossed for a good outcome.
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I've always held those harness things in utter contempt: seeing them as yet another 'bunny huggin-do-gooder-leftist-anti-come-to-mummy-for-cuddles-whose-my-precious-then' accoutrements of modern pet dogs: even had to advise someone that it really wasn't the best thing to put her Whippet in when its 'little armpits' were being rubbed raw by said harness. BUT it is a weird thing that dog relax in them (providing they don't rub). They don't appear to pull and best of all it appears to take away a lot of aggression from dogs when on leads (normally one of the biggest causes of dog to dog aggre
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I am looking at doing some fox pelts: I Googled tanning hides and found this Aussie site: looks as though there is a fair bit of info on there: might help you. http://www.aussiebowhunter.com/showthread....ghlight=tanning
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Food allergy? (Wheat, soya, beet pulp etc etc: dog food full of the stuff which a lot of dogs are allergic to and even if the dog has been on the same food for years they can build up to a level of intolerance which results in problems.) Contact allergy: dust mites, washing powder etc etc. Skin problems are a needle in a haystack job: I've got a similar thing at the moment with one of mine: tearing MY hair out trying to find the cause. First off: get dog on to hyperallergenic diet of chicken and rice for a month minimum. That will tell you if is is a food allergy. Still no improv
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Any chance of a photo of the lump? How long has it been there? And does it smell bad?
