matt_hooks
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Everything posted by matt_hooks
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Springer and bipod. Universally regarded as a "very bad idea"! There are loads of threads on here asking the same thing. Basically the recoil works in such a way that accuracy is dependent entirely on a consistent hold, and a bipod can't provide that.
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Webley Axsor barrel going loose
matt_hooks replied to woodsy101's topic in General Airgun Discussion
Is it the one that you access through the filling port? If so, pm me your address and I'll sling a couple in the post to you. Get some red loctite, put a little on the thread and tighten it up, it should stay tight. If it's not that one, then I'd still say loctite, it's not too expensive, and is great for making sure things stay nice and tight! -
Easy. Take the Titan spring and throw it in the bin. Buy a gas ram and get someone who knows how to fit it for you. The titan will increase recoil and noise, and put all sorts of stresses on bits of the rifle that aren't designed to withstand them.
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Mate, it's not worth anything! Give me £50 and I'll take it off your hands! Only kidding, they're a well liked model, in good condition should be well worth the £500 prive tag to someone, maybe more. Old proverb "it's only worth what someone's willing to pay for it!"
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Indeed Ric, I was avoiding the whole lands/grooves debate. If he doesn't understand rimfire and centrefire then the calibre/bullet diameter thing is going to be a bit lost on him! It amazes me how much misunderstanding there is of these things, even amongst very experienced shooters. The "rule of thumb" that says the bigger the number, the more powerful, is kind of misleading. A .300 win mag is far more powerful than a .308, and don't even start with the metric designations (7.62x51, 7.62 x 39 etc. etc. See now it's all getting confusing! (N.B. I'm not saying that not understanding i
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Not really. You've got to think, an individual pellet only needs about 2 ft.lb to reliably pierce a rabbits skull, far less for a bird. You will probably have several shot hitting the animal, so the total energy delivery is much higher.
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I know a shotgun instructor who takes the bead off customers shotguns. You shouldn't be looking at the end of the gun, you should be looking at what you want to shoot! If your mount and cheek weld are right, then your gun will point where you're looking (and you can see roughly if the barrel is lined up) You should never "aim" a shotgun, you look at the target and the gun follows! And don't apologise for asking questions. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask!
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The "rimfire" rounds, as the name suggests, are fired by striking the rim of the round. This is made hollow, and has the priming compound spun in to it. A centrefire cartridge has a much thicker rim, and an ignition charge in a cap, at the centre of the base of the cartridge which is ignited by hitting it with a "firing pin" The centrefire cartridge is more powerful than the rimfire cartridge because it is inherently stronger and can use higher pressures. Higher pressure = more velocity(speed)= more energy (power) The .17 hmr fires a very small (.17") bullet at a very high velocity. Th
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Steve, Davy likes to be in the back, so you can't tell when he's having a little nap. The snoring normally gives it away though. Of course, he's getting on a bit, so we have to make some allowances!
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http://www.(!64.56:886/pages/The-Hunting-Life/141040409278625?v=wall I agree re the data security thing. If you have personal details on there, you need to be very careful about how you set up your security settings, or you could let undesirables know your whereabouts. Especially important when you have FAC/SGC weapons at the address!
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If you're going FAC, go for a .22LR, rather than an FAC air. I know this is the air rifle section, but the LR does everything the FAC air does, just that little bit better. Plus the costs are massively lower. A brand new FAC air rifle setup will set you back several hunderd pounds, probably close on a thousand. For this you will get something that's a bit of a compromise. You will also lose most of the value if you want to try and sell it on, there just isn't the market for FAC air rifles. If you get a .22LR, you get a little bit more power, more range and better killing ability, for
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Go for a nice light gun. Someone who knows what they're doing with a 28 will hit as many clays as someone with a 12! Get him a nice light 28 o/u, with fairly light loads (or even .410 if he's really small frame)
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range finsing with a laser
matt_hooks replied to aaronpigeonplucker's topic in General Airgun Discussion
Rake, you need the maximum possible distance between scope and laser, to provide meaningful measurements for range. There are plenty of gun lasers that provide adjustment, any of the proper shooting lasers do. To set the laser to your zero range, just zero as usual, then adjust the laser to coincide with the crosshairs. -
As Richie says, soaking overnight helps the flavour, but I prefer to boil them for a couple of hours, until tender. Makes it far easier to get the meat off the bones (allow to cool a little and then strip it off with your fingers. If it doesn't fall off the bones you've not boiled it long enough!), makes it less chewy and takes the edge off the stronger flavours that some bunnies seem to have. Davy, I'll cook a few up for the meet in April, might see if I can bag some venison for it too, the .243 needs an outing anyway!
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Boil a load of the little suckers for two hours in lightly salted water. It draws the bitterness out of the meat, and tenderizes it nicely. Allow to cool, then use your fingers to pull all the meat off the bones. It's dead easy, and you can then use the meat for anything that you'd use chicken for. I served a load of rabbit drumsticks, bbq'd, at my cousins 18th, and everyone loved them! The boiled method is what I usually use though. Also save kidneys, liver, heart and lungs and cook them up with some pinhead oatmeal, makes brilliant bunny haggis!
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Meh, quicker and more fun to do the calcs yourself! 8.7%? This home brew I've got here shows nearly 17.5% on the hygrometer, you could run a car off this stuff!
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You have any idea what a clamp costs? A second hand pump will cost you less than the test and a clamp! I had to replace the hose on mine, cost a bleeding fortune! You can't mess around with 3000PSI!
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Can I get a condition on my FAC to hunt their hair? Surely it's some kind of vermin? It certainly seems to have a life of its own! Of course, I might forget the correct hold over, end up hitting a couple of inches low!
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And whoever said no air rifle for mink is talking out of their arse! A wild mink weighs less than a big buck rabbit, and a modern hunting air rifle running at close to the legal limit is easily enough to take one. They are also on the list of approved quarry. As a non-native, invasive species, they should be killed when and where they are found. Of course taking them with dogs is illegal these days, so make sure you've got an eagle to hand to finish them off!
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OK, but I bet you two million you can't hit a bird doing 40mph 30 feet over your head! Edited to add, I reckon I could make more with my .243 than your piddly little .204! I'll be using 48g Hornady SPBT FMJs. Your sad ballistic tip fragmenting rounds cannae crack it. :tongue4: So, about that bird in flight? And I don't use fragmenting rubbish, 105 grains of sp will do the job nicely thankyouverymuch!
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Total muzzle energy? 19 grams is about 293 grains. Muzzle velocity for a 3" .410 cartridge is around 1100 fps. So, using our trusty formula... ME=(mass x velocity x velocity)/450240 where mass is in grains and velocity is in fps therefore, for a .410 firing 19 grams... ME=(293 x 1100 x 1100)/450240 ME=354530000/450240 ME=787 ft.lb Now, assuming a UK number 4 shot, we will see about 170 pellets per ounce. 19 grams is .670 oz. So 19 grams of number 4 shot will contain about 114 shot, each weighing about 2.6 grains. So, assuming similar velocit
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Nice neat job there Owen. I would recommend not putting anything on the metal parts of the rifle. As Buster says, it will trap moisture against the metalwork and will cause all sorts of issues with corrosion. It's virtually impossible to ensure that it's properly dry underneath the tape. If you really need to camouflage the rifle, then either a rifle sock, or a bit of scrim net with some dyed fabric strips (a "gun ghillie suit" if you like") is a safer bet. Something that's easily removed and replaced anyway.
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What can you do to it to make it better offroad? How long's a piece of string? They're pretty good standard, just a decent set of chunky tyres makes them fine for light offroading and field work for dogs/lamping. Spend a few hundred quid, remove anti-roll bars for more articulation, maybe fit a rear LSD, some lifts and bigger wheels, and you've got a vehicle that'll do pretty much anything you ask of it that doesn't involve fast road work. It all depends on what you want it for, and how much moolah you want to sink in to the project, but they're a good starting point (though a SWB
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OK, but I bet you two million you can't hit a bird doing 40mph 30 feet over your head! Edited to add, I reckon I could make more with my .243 than your piddly little .204!
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All the valves etc. are designed to take a fairly significant over-pressure, so the chance of him having damaged anything significant is small. It does rather sound like he hasn't really got a clue though, which could mean he's inadvertently done some damage to the seals or valves. Modern air rifles "sweet spot" around the recommended fill pressure. That's why it's recommended. Yes, you CAN fill it to the max, but all this achieves is to reduce the power level and cause inaccuracy and variation, until the pressure falls to the sweet spot. The O-rings could leak if they are damaged. It