Joonsy
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Everything posted by Joonsy
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i have found some very large live-catch traps that due to size i would think must be for boar
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be warned there are a number of posts on here discrediting brian brindred service as awful, the latest being a post by member 'polkey' who describes his service as 'horrendous'' in the pinned thread about net suppliers, there have been other threads condemming his service do a search, from what you read on this forum you are asking for trouble ordering from that company so save yourself a headache and don't.
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out of all the methods of catching rabbits longnetting is the most humane, any rabbits that escape the net (and some do) are completely unharmed, those that get caught are dispatched quickly and efficiently, with longnetting there are NO rabbits left injured whatsoever and NO rabbits that die a lingering death, no other method of rabbit catching can claim that. in fact i have sometimes found pellets from shotguns and air rifles lodged beneath the skin of rabbits i have caught in longnets, proof indeed that the rabbit escaped injured from the shooter but not my long net.
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there was a similar post to this in september, see the thread titled ''anyone else used these'' by rabbiting man, from what you read on here he seems to treat his customers with contempt and i would not personally order anything off someone like that.
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??
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hello Tomo, yes like-minded, however i made mine myself so rabbits can be loaded round the whole pin, quick and easy to use on the go and secure. i used to get used cheapo clothing from one of those overall cleaning places, just the job in the days of motor-bike batteries.
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i have found that any rabbit carrier that relies on a loop around hock to hold rabbit is useless, when tension of loop is released such as when taking off the shoulder or placing carrier on the ground rabbits can drop out of the loop (and in the dark the odd rabbit slipping out of loop may go unnoticed if carrying a good number), rabbit carriers that rely on a tensioned loop around a hock are useless and rubbish. Thirty five years ago baling twine was used a lot pushed through a cut slit in one hock only of each rabbit and batches of about 20 rabbits would be hung this way on one tied loop, it
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at what point during netting did you see the two rabbits, when and how.
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you won't need a ferret at all because they will be replaced by radio-controlled robots requiring no feeding, housing, or vets bills, but the government will cash in and make you pay for an operators licence.
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the way things are going maybe in the future ferrets will be fitted with miniature head cameras with a link to your mobile phone to show live film and spades will be operated automatically by a switch with a little engine like a hedge strimmer so manual digging will be eliminated. i too started out ferreting in pre-locator days with liners and podgers when being quiet and patient was important, the arrival of the locator was a great improvement on multiple digs however.
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and better still if possible always go ''under'' the gate not over, even if that means crawling, never ever show your silhouette against the sky unless you like empty nets, always pay attention to the background cover, never twang wire fences, setting net quietly is more important than setting net fast (being quiet and fast will only come with experience), direction of wind is more important than its speed in both spooking the rabbits and setting the net and hilly country will deflect wind direction, if possible approach set directly from behind with wind in your face not at an angle across th
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as you've already started it this will be too late for you so offered for future reference. starting long nets is simple as you don't have to knit on a ring like in purse nets. On the end of your twine coming off the loaded needle just tie an overhand loop of any size, then place that loop on something like a butchers hook (or any similar object) that is anchored to start knitting off - now using your mesh stick knit a single mesh to that loop and continue downwards knitting one mesh only all the time (like knitting a purse net that is only one mesh wide all the way down) - after a certain amo
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i know what you mean, a good point and one worth remembering when it comes to repairing nets.
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if you mean 31/2'' full mesh it's way too small for a long net, don't waste your time and get the right size net to begin with which is 4-41/4'' full mesh.
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colour of long nets can be used to advantage, when rabbits hit the net others following will occasionally be spooked and try to run down alongside the net, sometimes even the full length of the net, to avoid capture, therefore they can clearly see something (and i have seen this happen with various colour nets), often the rabbit running alongside the net will switch-in after a short distance and get re-caught but occasionally the rabbit will run the entire full length of net and switch-in at it's end and avoid capture, if setting more than one net and they are of different colours the rabbit r
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Harold is now dead, his son is 'Arthur' not Albert.
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a net set 12 inches high will catch rabbits, however when even one rabbit is caught between two pegs the top line will be pulled down low to the ground (even if line is heavily tensioned) allowing other rabbits to hop over net, the top line will be pulled down very low no matter how high the net is set when rabbits are enmeshed, however varying aspects such as uneven terrain will mean when net is set so low as 12 inches on the flat it will be even lower where ground rises between pegs, also in high grass rabbits will be moving at a greater height as well, the correct height to set a net is rea
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shops will say anything to get your money so ignore their sales pitch, jute twists up badly when wet and is very inferior to good hemp, the ''new hemp'' to quote you has been around for donkeys years and is no good at all for net-making.
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privet is much heavier than hazel, therefore hazel for lightness, holly or ash has sometimes been used too as a substitute but hazel is about the lightest wooden peg, and weight is important.
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Hello ''tramp'', yes i prefer the old traditional method of setting long nets as well, it's so versatile, and also i use cotton lines as the net does not slide along lines of cotton as easily as nylon and holds better on pegs. I suspect that the traditional method is now used by a minority of netters.
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i agree that two people is the most efficient way of setting, the runner-out needs only be a few yards in front of pegger for best efficiency, however if one does not have a reliable experineced partner it is quite straightforward to work nets solo by pegging as you go, backpegging is easier and it does take some practice to master pegging as you go but once learned personally i think it is the better method for reasons previously explained, in the end it's not about what's easy but what's best, and being versatile with the skills to use all methods can only be good, for beginners backpegging
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but you can question aspects of it. Ie, the main reason he gives for pegging as you go, is to prevent your net from being on the groundThere are two very good reasons pegging as you go is superior to back pegging, firstly with pegging as you go the bagging in net is always kept within two pegs, with back pegging when the wind is end on the the bagging in net will slide all the way to one end meaning lots of work re-distributing bagging when back pegging, secondly with back pegging the amount of time walking up and down the net is doubled hence far more disturbance to the quarry, i often set fi
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56 rabbits in 200yds (4 x 50 yarders) in one set, 60 rabbits in 250 yds (5 x 50 yarders) in one set but by beating up twice (got an extra 8 on second beat up), all in my own hand-made irish linen nets, early part of the season when rabbits most abundant.
