Joonsy
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Everything posted by Joonsy
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thread is often measured by something called ''Cotton Count'' which means how many 840 yard hanks (one hank equals 840 yards) you get from one pound of thread, with this unit of measure the '20' refers to the threads linear density, in other words it refers to wether it is a fine or coarse thread, the higher the number the finer the yarn, 1-20 is classed as coarse whereas 20-40 for example is much finer, as an example you would get 8,400 yards from one pound of thread classed as size '10' (coarse) or 84,000 yards from one pound of thread in size '100' (extremely fine). Anyone interested just g
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i presume Johnnnie Walker, he did a radio 2 programme with Allan Clarke lead singer of the Hollies
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on a traditional net? can you expand on that and say why and how and what you personally consider the pros and cons to be? are you keeping it a secret socks or is there another reason for not (yet) sharing your method ?
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on a traditional net? can you expand on that and say why and how and what you personally consider the pros and cons to be? i have never seen traditional nets with meshes sewn directly onto the end pins either.
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yes that would indeed be an improvement Wise words indeed. I started longnetting a good many (too many) years before the internet and its forums burst onto the scene, back then there was also no instructional books or videos either and some experienced netters could be a little guarded and tight-lipped about their tactics so the beginner had to learn mostly by trial and error, therefore I have never forgot the words of a wonderful old man and very experienced netter who was less reluctant to help and offered me some good advice just before his death, to quote him ‘'knowledge to an old m
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i know what you mean Tiercel, i have only used the triangle a relatively short while prompted to try it by posts on this forum and agree with your comments, thinking along your lines i pondered on womens hair clips or those giant paper clips then pulled out a bulldog clip from my drawer and tried that, just clip it right over the bar of triangle and onto the meshes (so it is clamped tight onto the meshes only NOT the wire, fitted so it will rotate freely over wire but clamp on mesh), i have not yet tried knitting with it so don't know if it's strong enough to hold firm but other than that it f
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thanks sprockerjay for reply, i've been accused of many things but never a great mind ATB thanks reply bobcullen, yes it is easier to make as like you say the squaring off is simpler (presume you mean getting the bottom to sit level), just form the hook first on a straight bit of wire then bend into a triangle shape then to finish just bend over the wire near hook at a suitable point to ensure bottom sits level when knitting, ATB. thanks reply perthshire keeper, if you see how i've bent over the end of wire that clips into the hook well that's what keeps the hook closure from spr
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After viewing some posts I have noticed that some people use a triangular shaped bit of wire for holding their meshes when knitting nets, they normally have a ‘clip’ type opening on the bottom where the meshes are held to obviously allow for meshes to be taken on and off the holder. This is clearly demonstrated on one of the videos on Agouti’s website titled ‘Beginning the Net’. I tried this and soon realised that the wire holder could be improved because occasionally while knitting the meshes can snag on the hooked clip closure or the end of wire protruding from the clip and I found it a bit
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Tc's suggestion of braiding onto a purse net ring you decided against because of the potential noise problem, a lambing ring or section of inner tube would eliminate the noise potential imo There is absolutely no need to add anything at all, adding any type of ring does not improve or change the sysyem in any way whatsoever, there is simply no noise problem at all with just two interlocking cord loops. i am all for beneficial change but adding something just for the sake of it which does not change the system in any way at all is just creating extra unneccessary work and trying to resolve
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A purse net ring would have the same effect, when i came up with this method I did try that but decided against it, i felt it had the potential for metal to jangle against metal, you can control the end pins and ensure they don't tap against each other but it would be harder to stop a floating ring from tapping against pin (though you could use a plastic one i guess), that may sound like taking things a bit too far and you may say how much noise can a ring make tapping against pin and it's being over cautious (and you may be right) but tapping metal is a very unnatural noise and can be heard f
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Thanks for replies folks. That alternative method I’ve posted is a self-equalizing system. It has a few more benefits but my last post started to get a bit long. Rigging a net that way is very quick indeed and very simple, in fact you can rig a net up without moving out of your chair if you so wish as you do not need to run out net full length to rig it. All you need to know is how long you want finished net to be, rig it and then collect up on pins, admittedly you may want to run out net full length to distribute bagging better but lines will self-equalize when doing so and need no further ad
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Alternative rigging method for running lines on traditional longnets. When working a traditional set longnet it is of course vital that the running lines are completely free to run round the end pins. It is normal practice to fix last mesh of net to top/bottom running lines to keep end of net in place a short distance from end pin. The fixed end meshes are kept near enough an equal distance from end pin on both top/bottom lines, this distance doesn’t have to be exact of course but severe unequalness can cause problems and you may have to occasionally adjust this distance, for example when doi
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yes those 'unusual' sets give you a certain satisfaction when you find a way round it and you are right there is very often a solution, perseverence is the greatest asset in a longnetters armoury, and perhaps observation is the second. I know of a tiny footbridge over a brook that very often produces a rabbit or two, i couldn't help trying it when i saw a rabbit run across it one day, it highlighted the importance of knowing 'where' to place the net.
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Thought I would share an experience I once had. I was asked to catch up some rabbits from a field that presented problems, it had a very thin top layer of soil covering rubble and various waste from landfill/tip use which made normal pegging completely impossible, it was bordered by a road on one side and a housing estate on the other so though a drop net was feasible it would have clearly been seen so was at risk of theft or vandalism if left unattended. I came up with an alternative method. I had some tempered steel pegs made by a blacksmith, during daylight I smashed those steel pegs throug
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60 Odd Mph Winds = A Lot Of Hassle With The Nets!
Joonsy replied to perthshire keeper's topic in Longnetting
Nice post. Stooping low and keeping net as close to ground as possible helps setting in high winds. I have set many many times in gales with success, one memorable night some years ago on ******** estate the wind was so strong that it blew a fully grown beech tree down right over a set net, it was lucky no-one was seriously hurt as it dropped inches from my partner waiting on the net while I beated up, it would have crushed and killed him if he had been directly underneath it, despite this ten rabbits were still caught in that set (two nets), the tree fell right on top of net making it diffic -
there is a knack to splicing, notice how in those photos he has what looks about 1 inch-1.5 inches (judging by his thumb size) of line doubled back, that much doubled back makes it very hard to pull through. However too little doubled back and it simply won't hold and the line will just pull out of the eye. You need to double back the smallest amount of line that will be able to maintain its hold in the eye of needle. Also fluff the end of line up a little. Also you do not need to thread the entire thickness of the line through the needle, half is enough. See my photo below, fluff up about a c
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http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/33724-cotton-bands/ regarding above post Apologies for resurrecting such an old post if irritating to members (was looking through some old posts).A great many years ago, pre-synthetic days, yes many longnets were hemp or linen fitted with 2-3mm cotton running lines. There was a hollow braid cotton cord which was sold under the name ‘’Cotton Banding’’. Describing running lines as ‘’Bands’’ is just a corruption of the proper name ‘’Cotton Banding’’ I would think. I used that cord myself, when new it would stretch a lot for first few uses and th
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yes i would agree it is possible for single splices to work loose, when lines are not under tension, for that reason i always throw a half-a-dozen or so stitches of strong thread through the centre leaving ends of thread just sticking out loose for belt and braces so it can't happen. I used to sew joins a lot but found they caught the net no matter how i sewed, run my hand along join and it seemed perfectly smooth but slide net along and it often caught, one net ended up with a number of sewed joins in a short length and this catching started to get a nuisance especially on end winds when too
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I have sewed as well but found sewed joins always snag the net a little and stop it from running freely along top line, especially if you get more than one sewed join in a short length. Using a wool needle is a pain and if braid is tightly woven even pliers may be needed, not so with a ballpoint bodkin it is very easy and i can splice nylon hollow braid in much less than three minutes and the finish is better and as smooth running as if no join existed at all.
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Hi, what do you use for splicing your running lines, which you have to do when they get bitten through or when setting up a new net. I use a ''Ballpoint Bodkin'' as shown in photo below, i used to use a wool/darning needle but find the Ballpoint Bodkin much easier to use, i have also occasionally just used a bit of single-strand brass rabbit snare wire twisted into a loop which works just as well also shown in photo. Using the Ballpoint Bodkin is a slightly different technique to the wool needle because of the ballpoint end (though you could snip off the ballpoint if you wish), you do the tech
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It really is quite simple you go through the v twice, Once you get to that stage you make your knot as normal. Good idea there joonsy. TC a good clear photo there tiercel, thanks, a photo is often better understood than a verbal description. The 'round turn' forms a shoulder to help stop the knot slipping below the mesh. Of course you can finish with whatever knot you wish, finished with a double knot/carrick bend it forms a very secure knot, and it can be used in slippy material where other knots fail.
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No NOT a carrick bend i am familiar with that, what i mean is, a full ''round turn'' first followed by the normal netting knot to finish. Normally you push the needle through the mesh once only and then tie your knot on top of that. However push the needle through the mesh ''twice'' first in exactly the same way and then tie the normal knot on top of that to finish. -- (pushing the needle through the mesh ''twice'' first forms a full round turn around the mesh, NOT a knot, pushing the needle around the mesh once only as you normally do is a ''half turn'' around the mesh)
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Hi, is the knot slipping down below the bend of the mesh you are adding to, sounds like it. as you will know the knot has to above the bend. When addding a thicker twine to a thinner twine this often happens because the normal netting knot (presume you are using that) being the sheet bend works best by using the thinner twine to tie the knot (or at very least same diameter as when making meshes) which is the exact oppositie of what you do when adding a thicker selvedge to a longnet. You need to create 'lump' to make it hard for the knot to slip below the mesh. An easy way to do this is to make
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long shot but would anybody happen to know what mesh size that net is in that video, at times 1:34, 2:03, 2:26, it appears that those rabbits cannot get their head through the meshes, the rabbits seem a good average size but despite several attempts it appears they cannot poke their heads through the meshes (unless footage is not showing properly), perhaps someone here may know the person personally and possibly be good enough to say the mesh size, thanks.
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could you explain your reasoning for choosing to use black, what merits do you think a black net would have.
