Grim Reaper
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Everything posted by Grim Reaper
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Landed myself a new Shoot the other day
Grim Reaper replied to Grim Reaper's topic in Airgun Hunting
Hi Mate!! yeah, things are cool with me at the moment bud, hope things are equally ok with you and yours? How are things with the tank bracket/holder working out for you - is it performing well? i haven't seen any snaps of it yet mate - looking forward to seeing them when you have the opportunity. All the best pal, Grim. -
I arrived at a Cemetary the other day, a bit ahead of the funeral on which I was to work, and was chatting to the Super Intendant to pass the time. He got round to mentioning the tree damage that has been done to the trees within the cemetary grounds, and I simply said that i have a cure for that sort of thing . . . He told me he has had several enquiries recently to the same effect, and usually passes them onto the cemetaries office for refusual etc., but then said that as he knows me well, he didn't and couldn't see any problems for me to start doing pest control with my air rifle
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Me too Midge mate, me too - if he isn't suitably impressed, give me a bell and I'll be round to sort him out for ya bud! LOL I have told you before, and i'll say it again - good job matey! All the best pal, Grim.
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Walnut (in it's raw and unfinished state, the European Walnut is lighter in colour than it's American counterpart), Beech (if you have American steamed Beech, the timber is a light pinky colour, and this accepts oil well, and this adds to its beauty as well. ) are very good timber types to use. Even though Walnut is a hardwood, it is still a very workable timber. The Beech is also a hardwood timber, and is somewhat more difficult to work and shape, but still a viable option if you have the tools needed to work it. As well as these 2 timber types, you can use Rosewood as a very good contr
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thanks mate. i used a standard stock as a rough template then just changed a few bits to how i would like it and then made a proper template from a piece of ply with moveable hand grip and moveable cheeck piece and kept moving them until it felt right, it all fits like a glove and i found it fits me better then standard stock being an inch shorter and higher cheek piece , i think it important that this is the way to go before making one ta make sure it fits you , thanks for great comments Are you for real He is for real indeed! Midge has done a fair and good job of thes
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A. its too loud. Sorry, I can't help you on this one mate - as I am not familiar with this rifle. Grim. B. it feels underpowered. It dosen't make any difference as to what it 'feels' like, but rather what DOES matter is the rifle's performance downrange. I guess what I'm trying to say is, you don't need an air rifle to kick like a mule in order to make it kill a rabbit effectively, providing of course that the rifle is [A] used at the correct & best effective range for that specific rifle and [B] is used within your own capabillities. Grim. I hope this helps you some mate?
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Rob, I too have a 3ltr 300 Bar tank/bottle, and my dive shop i use always has filled it to 300 Bar no probs - i think the dive shop you are using are just coming out with a bit of BS there!? My tank/bottle is marked up as 'SWP 300 Bar' this means that 300 bar is the safe working pressure as a maximum. the dive shop know this, it is plainly visible to all, and so they fill to 300 Bar for me when i go there - i have had no problems whatsoever (even up to now) with the guys there. I think it best you find another dive shop to use mate. All the best, Grim.
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Aww Ryan, thanks mate It's just stuff i pick up and hold onto really, and although i am fairly knowledgable with air arms PCP's, i will try and help wherever i see the opportunity for my own experiences to be of help mate;) All the best, Grim.
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thanks all for great comments, i not sure if this would fit the s200. maybe grim would know Indeed I do guys! Unfortunately , I think you will most certainly find it will not fit the S200 - because on the S200, you have a length of threaded studding bar that comes down from the action behind the trigger block at an angle of approx 45 degrees? The purpose of this studding is to secure the stock to the action, and of course, you would also have to mark and drill this [Midge's stock] stock for 1, maybe 2 other stock securing screws too. Add to that already said, the fact
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Although your comment is quite true, in respect of a pump is always ready for use - I feel I must point out that a diver's tank is equally always ready for use (even if you do have to get it re-filled now and then. ). It is a matter of convenience over price really - how ungainly to have to take a pump with you to refill your rifle's reservoir, when you can just lob the tank in the boot of your vehicle and forget it until you need to use it - this use only takes a few moments in total, as opposed to say, half hour or so pump use as well. Convenience & ease of use . . . .
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Hi Stan, What will happen is that if it does pass, you will be notified by a phone call (if you left contact details) and you'll then have to pay the dive shop for the test, and collect your cylinder from the dive shop. If the dive shop you use is a reputable and well known one, they will re-assemble the cylinder and hose/valve yoke, and refill the cylinder for you as part of the testing proceedure. If, on the other hand, it doesn't pass the test, the testers themselves will simply destroy the cylinder and you will then have to get a new replacement cylinder. The cylinder is the only
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is it walnut? where did you get it from? Hi Anthony, Yes, it is American Black Walnut - i have seen the timber myself up close and personal, and he got it from a woodyard/timber merchant local to where he lives. this is a good way to get hold of timber to make stocks out of. It certainly beats paying over the top proces from the internet gun stock blank suppliers - I got my walnut timber from my own local timber merchant when i made my stock. much cheaper, and you get to select the timber yourself as well, instead of relying on the choice of someone else. I hope this help
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Very well done old chap!! I am pleased it has worked out as well for you as it has for me bud! All the very best pal, and keep in touch - i'll always help you where i can. Regards, Grim.
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Fair comment Andy. I wasn't saying there is no need for shims, or fancy mounting brackets at all , ever, like. I was merely suggesting one way of trying things out without the need for shims or outlay of more money when it may not be needed just yet, if you see what i meant? The way i suggest in the thread has always worked for me, and i have never had any problems using that method at all. That is why i thought it may help to suggest the OP had a look at it and gave it a try? My own view is that shims are not needed when something is failing for the first time or every time, in fa
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Hi Ian, Try having a look >here<, you may just find it of help to you mate. In order for you to 'reset' the scope, I would suggest you try and centralize the crosshairs again and try going onwards from there - if you read through the thread, you will find all the information you should need right there. IMHO, you shouldn't need to shim the scope mounts really - you have a decent scope, and if you recentralize the crosshairs, and remount the scope on the mounts, i can see no reason why you shouldn't be able to achieve a zero point without shims on the scope mounts? I
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Sort of the same thing here Mal, but just not in pictures - and not to do with air rifles! :sick: Nasty business is compressed gasses when it all goes wrong - not very nice at all. All the best, Grim.
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That's all good. Regards, Grim.
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No worries bud, better safe than sorry! When the divers bottles that we use are refilled at the dive shop, the gas they use is in fact compressed air - same as what you are breathing this very minute. Shoot safe, stay safe. Regards, Grim.
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Absolutely no difference whatsoever - oxygen is oxygen - thats the first half answered. Now onto the second part . . . . The simple answer to this part is, if you value your fingers, hands, and in fact, just about any other part of your body, then no, you cannot, and very certainly should not, use oxygen to fill up your PCP - never . . . .ever!! Only compressed air should ever be used in a PCP air rifle. Any gas under the very high pressures involved in PCP rifle is dangerous enough if used wrongly or incompetantly - let alone using oxygen as well!! OK, just suppose for 1 m
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Yes JD, it is the bottle/tank that is tested - you are quite correct there, but it does in fact matter where the bottle is to be used mate. Diver's tanks that are used for filling of air rifles will have a valving system that can only be used on land (also termed 'surface use only') and not under water, and as such, are only subject to a 5 yearly hydrostatic test. Diver's tanks that are to used for the breathing of either compressed air, or a mixture of gasses thereof for the same use under water have a totally different valving system to that used on tanks for air rifle filling (wat
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No worries - glad to have been of help to you pal. That is what this place is for, after all - helping one another. Regards, Grim.
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Hi Rob, From the little bits i can find about it, i believe there should be a filling pressure marked out on the left side of the action - now wether that is in Bar or PSI is anyone's guess of course, but it should be stamped on the left side of the action somewhere? Hope this is of help to you mate? Regards, Grim.
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Ok, If the rifle were to have been upped proffesionally, then you can be 100% sure that it would have only been done if the owner at the time could have produced his FAC cert as evidence of being permitted to own and FAC power air rifle BEFORE any work were to have been undertaken and done. Now, having said that bit, once the FAC cert has been produced, and the work undertaken and carried out by the gunsmith, the rifle would then have been duly registered by the gunsmith as having had the work done on it, and would then have become (in the eyes of the law) a firearm. The ruling is, t
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No Mal, its not that our sheep are not as welcoming as yours mate - rather it is just that yours are just more easy than ours . . . . Regards, Grim.
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Happy birthday 'Tess, hope you have a nice day!! Now then . . . . . where's your house again - for the party?!? Lol All the best, Grim.