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Painters/decorators HELP PLEASE!


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Painting walls in Bedroom, they were purple and that way when I moved in, walls are dry lined.  Thought I would start with a coat or two of Dulux Brill White Matt to help obscure the purple as they will be end up an off white Ivory type of colour.

Dulux diluted about 10% with water as so hot, applied first coat on Sat and walls bubbled in parts.  Rubbed down the areas yesterday , bubbles did not burst but went "nearly" flat again, just applied another coat of Dulux and bubbles all back.

Any ideas about the cause and more specifically how to cure, will I need to cut out the areas?  Seems a real pain whatever.

Thanks.

Pics showing a typical area, bubbles are from about 1mm to 8mm in various parts of the wall but in groups similar to this, much of the walls are fine.  They do not flatten when dry.

002.jpg.0395b5cd23385f68aa929c2f3b4acf04.jpg

 

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There is either vinyl silk paint on the wall ( most likely ) or the paper on the plasterboard is lifting due to the moisture in either case the bubbles should just dry back as the wall dry,s out ?but if not you can peel the vinyl silk paint off like a coat of rubber and for future reference never put silk paint on new plaster as it sits on top and doesn’t soak in and penetrate the wall like a Matt will, ???

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41 minutes ago, Francie said:

Would it not be something to do with the water you mixed with the paint decker, never heard of that before?

??????

It is common practice to dilute emulsion paint, it even says you can do it up to 10% on the instructions on the Dulux tin.  It helps with paint flow, especially in hot conditions.  It is not uncommon for the trade to dilute it much more than 10%, it can reduce the orange peel effect of some paint when using a roller quite dramatically and give a much better finish.

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1 hour ago, Greyman said:

There is either vinyl silk paint on the wall ( most likely ) or the paper on the plasterboard is lifting due to the moisture in either case the bubbles should just dry back as the wall dry,s out ?but if not you can peel the vinyl silk paint off like a coat of rubber and for future reference never put silk paint on new plaster as it sits on top and doesn’t soak in and penetrate the wall like a Matt will, ???

My guess is somewhere along some of those lines.

Best I can tell the existing paint was vinyl matt purple, under this is a very light green which I suspect was original paintwork and also seems matt.   My suspicions are, at the new build time, joint skim went over the joints and damaged plasterboard and the walls were painted when everything was still damp. 

There is no way the developer ever put anything like a sealing/mist coat on any of the walls first.    Just shows the rubbish job developers do, house is circa 20 years old.   

I have had vast area of the house skimmed as paint has historically fallen off walls and much has been covered in lining paper, the previous owners obviously had no idea, the lining paper just shows all the undulations underneath.   

This particular bedroom looked like I might have half a chance painting without a skim, perhaps I was wrong.

 

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As a plasterer I can remember being told back in the 80s that dry lining will be an end to my trade but I,ve spent half my working life skimming out rooms and houses for people with dry lined walls, getting bathroom tiles off usually leads to total destruction of the walls, it was cheaper for the builder but left the house owner with a nightmare for the future, good luck ?

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4 minutes ago, foxdropper said:

The mist coat or king coat as it’s called should only ever be used on new plaster Chris .Stick to straight paint over painted walls .

That's what I was thinking. Only ever used what we call a sizing coat on new plaster.

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 ,get Bullseye 123 or B I N Primer ,sand the affected areas.rad roller used to roll over the bad bits ,coat away after half an hour ,,if more appears ,repeat..that will stop it ..

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14 hours ago, Deker said:

??????

It is common practice to dilute emulsion paint, it even says you can do it up to 10% on the instructions on the Dulux tin.  It helps with paint flow, especially in hot conditions.  It is not uncommon for the trade to dilute it much more than 10%, it can reduce the orange peel effect of some paint when using a roller quite dramatically and give a much better finish.

Thanks you decker, ye learn something new everyday.

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Latest.

The bubbles are from the paintwork BELOW the paint I am applying and it is evident the paint is not adhering to the walls in these specific areas.

The bubbles do not go away when the emulsion dries!    However, I have pushed them flat with the back of my fingernail and they seem to stay in position quite well. I cannot believe how abrasive matt emulsion is, I have worn away 2 fingernails to paper thin!!!!!

2 coats of oil based undercoat have been applied to the walls in the effected areas and the bubbles did not re-emerge. I have just applied a coat of emulsion over the areas and it works, no bubbles have emerged!

The down side is I have found 3 more areas where I didn't apply undercoat and they have bubbled, so the saga continues, but a solution is at hand, however unprofessional it may seem!

:thumbs:

 

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10 hours ago, Our team said:

Undercoat the way forward for all damp sealing ect ect. Ect ... ? ? 

Will that dodgy cheat work where paint is peeling? We previously had rising damp which was treated with injection. We have a few areas where the paint is peeling off but there is no damp, I believe it is something to do with the historic salts coming through??? Doesn't appear to be any damp issue but paint still flaking.

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