dog fox 16 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 if you dont put waterproofer in scratch coat it will crack and blow off in time trust me, been a plasterer for 15 years mate ,the top coat with just get all the water sucked out off it and will not set how its supposed to ,with water proofer in scratch coat the top coat will hang all day and set how its suposed to,a lot stronger and you get a proper finish otherwise it will go all bread crummy ,you can also use an acclerator / frost proofer as surgested but water in these conditions will still swell and then it will just blow off the scratch coat ,you need a few days of a nice temperture to do the job right or your just waisting your time ...hope this helps Not if its been uni bonded properly. thing is if you only uni bond it mate is that the render and the wall has a thin membrain of unibond between them ,not as strong as a good scratch coat ,and if you doing a full gable then you need all the time you can get as you probs know ,here,s one we did last year and this is a full drop top to bottom with no peicings Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BULLDOUG 199 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 if you dont put waterproofer in scratch coat it will crack and blow off in time trust me, been a plasterer for 15 years mate ,the top coat with just get all the water sucked out off it and will not set how its supposed to ,with water proofer in scratch coat the top coat will hang all day and set how its suposed to,a lot stronger and you get a proper finish otherwise it will go all bread crummy ,you can also use an acclerator / frost proofer as surgested but water in these conditions will still swell and then it will just blow off the scratch coat ,you need a few days of a nice temperture to do the job right or your just waisting your time ...hope this helps Not if its been uni bonded properly. thing is if you only uni bond it mate is that the render and the wall has a thin membrain of unibond between them ,not as strong as a good scratch coat ,and if you doing a full gable then you need all the time you can get as you probs know ,here,s one we did last year and this is a full drop top to bottom with no peicings Im all for scratch coating mate but what if you dont unibond the scratch? there gonna dry at different rates and for an air pocket no? Thats why its called bond. Nice job that mate, ive done gable ends with just two labourers in the past (fook me them days have gone)lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AL BUNDY 45 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 no wonder the building trades f****d.need to move down south must be plenty repair work going. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dog fox 16 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 al who you refering to there mate ,did my time with some very good plasterers old school ,thats how i was tought so thats how i do my work ,so far ive had no call backs , i still see alot of my work week in week out ,some over ten years old and still going strong mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zap 4 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 right as a plasterer when we rough cast we put freeflo and sbr in scratch coat a freeflo in top coat ,you need it in the scratch coat or your wasting your time as for it not bonding well thats why you scratch it to give the top coat something to grip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malt 379 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 Typical bloody plasterers, each ones an expert (especially me ) and everyone else knows feck all! :clapper: Seriously, you want a good scratch coat, and IMO it doesn't matter if there's waterproofer or just plasticiser in it. More important (again, IMO) is that you leave plenty of key on it. I do this by brushing the scratch coat before I put the scratches in, and ensure that the scratches are even all over, and nice and deep. I've seen far too many 'jobbers' leaving the walls like they've been attacked by an angry leopard, with scratches haphazardly slapped into the render in all sorts of shapes and depths, only to become cluck within months. I think any plasterer worth anything knows the benefit of a decent scratch coat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AL BUNDY 45 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 al who you refering to there mate ,did my time with some very good plasterers old school ,thats how i was tought so thats how i do my work ,so far ive had no call backs , i still see alot of my work week in week out ,some over ten years old and still going strong mate i think you know it wasnt you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArchieHood 3,692 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 Just clad it with tin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tillylamp 1,853 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 (edited) why dont you just put building paper round it,then put virtical battons down it and then put weatherboards on it!!! job done. very pleasing to the eye thanks tilly lamp. Edited January 6, 2010 by tillylamp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BULLDOUG 199 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 Lining the inside will only add further problems what you need to do is address the outside first. Apply uni bond to block surface and then apply scratch coat once the uni bond is still tacky. 1 lime 1 cement and 3 plastering sand ratio. When still moist and applied onto the wall scratch horizontally only. Once this has gone off after a few days apply another coat of uni bond and apply another coat of render whilst uni bond is still tacky. If your shite at rendering then slap it on best you can or use a Tyrolean Box to apply further coats and make it look pretty. Don't forget 1 lime 1 cement 3 plastering sand oh and use a mortar placticsicer in the mix, it will go off like bell iron Make sure the roof allows the water to run off the building and not down the fecker too,lol. Ah ya see this method has been used for a long time and theres buildings stood for a 100 years and only starting to show wear now. It aint rocket science is it lol. I was a spread for17 years and been out the trade for a few years, but still get begged to go back on the tools, theres a reason for that. I'll leave it for you chemical brothers lmao. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnipper 6,627 Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 like bondy said mate render it and add a good ltr of waterproofer to every mix you make ,first a good scratch coat with waterproofer and then a good top coat with waterproofer in it ,leave scratch coat for a day or so before you put second coat on and when second coat is just about set rub it over with a damp sponge this will seal it all nice and strong and you should end up with something like this,dont do it while the weather is freezing wait till it gets a bit warmer Looks an ok job that who did it for ya? Wheres the bead along the damp course? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dog fox 16 Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 im like you knipper mate a tight tw@t ,owt to save a few £££££ it did have a drip bead to start with ,then i reflagged the garden bringing it up higher ,thats why i pu the aco ,s in ,aint no water or damp gets in there pal ,any ways aint explaining my self to you (lol) we out when this ice has gone and i promise there wont be any hills Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mushroom 13,573 Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 Dogfox You missed a bit Can't PM mate will get intouch soon. Sorry to hijack the thread people. Kie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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