Jump to content

Coneytrappr

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    468

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Coneytrappr

  1. Coneytrappr
    That will heal well by itself, should be almost gone in a week and a half. You shouldn't need to do much with it, dog will sort it out and keep it clean.
  2. Coneytrappr
    Never called hares before, but am very interested in hearing more about it. What is the best way to call them, and early or late in season? Or does that not matter?
  3. Coneytrappr
    Sounds like too much bone in the diet mate, you'll want to reduce the amount of bone and increase the amount of meat. I try to aim for -85% meat, 10-15% edible bones, 5=10% organs with half of that being liver. Try to give a variety of things; I feed mine a lot of hearts as they are good cheap meat, lamb necks, mutton flaps. when giving chicken carcasses I always give liver at the same time as it is very good at stopping things from getting bound up. For more information the Dog Food Chat forum is good, you can find it on google.
  4. Coneytrappr
    Sounds like your pup is made of good stuff, however I'd be wary of letting him run so many rabbits at only 19 weeks...he is unlikely to catch them and you don't want it getting into his head that he can't. It's a good feeling though, eh. I love watching dogs hunt up and push cover.
  5. Coneytrappr
    You probably won't need three weeks, my bitch took a chunk out of hers and it took a top of two. Their pads heals very quickly, you will be suprised.
  6. Coneytrappr
    Yeah mate, it's best not to over complicate it. They are like other dogs and enjoy your company, want to play, want to spend time with you etc. The only difference really is what it will do when working. I treat mine as pets when they aren't actively doing their job and I reckon this helps with having a good bond when out in the field. I like to have pups in for a while but that's just personal preference, again for that bonding and socialisation. Your misses won't mind once she plays with it abit. I get pups out in the field ASAP, not seeing any game but just getting used to the ground
  7. Coneytrappr
    My tips: -Pick a pup out of a litter from dogs that are doing what you want yours to do. The mix of breeds doesn't matter so much, just find dogs that do what you like. -Spend plenty of time bonding with the pup and letting it be a pup. This I feel is important as it is easy to have high expectations and be too hard on a pup. -Introduce it to ferrets straight away. I like to let pup and ferrets share a bowl of milk, good easy introduction to each other. -It doesn't have to be kennelled to be a good worker. So if you would rather have it inside with your staffs then that is totally fine, it
  8. Coneytrappr
    more chance than if he doesnt,dont you think? There's always one. Yes mate, i know that, and would advise him to get it to the vets. What i meant was, does anyone have any experience of a ferret with a serious uterine infection responding well to anti-biotics, or any serious infection that a ferret has come back from through the use of anti biotics? Just wanted to know for reference. Once had a jill at death's door with pneumonia and she came right with antibiotics and went on to graft hard for years after that despite scarred lungs. Not uterine infections but
  9. Coneytrappr
    Great post. Worker to worker is the only way. Breed the best to the best and select healthy hard workers to further your line...it's dark underground and the rabbits won't care that your ferret isn't a micro EU silver/angora/rainbow/whatever. Promise.
  10. Coneytrappr
    Bollicking a dog that is reactive to other dogs can escalate the beahviour. Have you thought about doing a bit of clicker training with it? I was skeptical as fook about it but gave it a go and it does actually work and pretty well at that. The idea is to not wait until the dog does something wrong but to get in first and reward the dog for showing behaviours that you want, eg. reward it for paying attention to you instead of to another dog, reward it for ignoring another dog, etc. It's particularly good for sensitive breeds like whips and salukis that don't like to be rumbled. http
  11. Coneytrappr
    My bitch took a chunk out of her pad and apart from cleaning it with salt water I did nowt; she took care of keeping it clean and it healed up well and fast. Dogs are hardy and their pads heal fast. ATB
  12. Coneytrappr
    Just good old poleys and albinos here
  13. Coneytrappr
    The answer depends on a lot of things. If the whippet has a lot of hunt in it but has never been worked and the greyhound is a hard chasing type that has held up well under the pressures of a succesful racing career then yeah, you might end up with something that will work. If the whippet is a pet because it showed it's tail to game/ has no drive/ is timid and you put it to some soft non-chasing track reject then logistically the chances are slim... Either way you would be way better off buying in a well bred pup from parents doing the job you want done.
  14. Coneytrappr
    Rats are vicious sods when need be and will give a ferret a run for it's money...use a smoker, no need to lose a ferret just to get a stinking rat.
  15. Coneytrappr
    Or if he's that bothers and really wants the right answer instead of 50 million dirent possible he could take one to the vets for testing ; ) sounds to me like the whole lot needs nocking it's all good and well rearing good kits but not for them for me if there as bad as said Yer, you're right. A vet would give him definite answers [if it was a decent vet anyhow]. I would put the rest down also as they obviously just ain't thriving for whatever reason and there is always an excess of healthy stock to take a pick from without perpetuating poor health. A shame but that's how it goes some
  16. Coneytrappr
    Could be a calcium deficiency or could be dodgy silver genes. Could even be both; I once read that ferrets with the silver gene can have trouble with absorbing the right amounts of nutrition from their feed...seemed to fit with my own experiences as the silver hob I had never could keep weight on no matter how much he ate. His poley littermate was a good do'er on the same grub. I think you did right to cull them mate. For the ones that are left try game with small light bones...pigeon, rabbit ribs etc. ATB with it .
  17. Coneytrappr
    Sometimes it's due to handler error, sometimes a dog just doesn't have it. Was once out with some folks doing a bit of a walkup when a hare got up from its seat no more than 8 metres in front of a big racy bitch...which watched it run away. Didn't even show a scrap of interest. The dog showed no interest in foxes alive or dead and would 'sometimes' run at rabbits and whether it would then pull up or carry through was a matter of chance. The fella who had it put some work into it, no joy. He gave it to someone else and they put over half a years effort into it, no joy. To me this dog just
  18. Coneytrappr
    I would rather a dog pull up when it is clearly outclassed after putting in a good effort, than kill itself on game it will never catch. But that does not mean jacking simply because it can't be arsed, or from a lack of heart.
  19. Coneytrappr
    Well done! That is almost exactly how my 10 month old pup caught her first last week- scuttler in cover. Fantastic education for a pup and bodes well for the future. All the best with her
  20. Coneytrappr
    Thanks mate, it really is the best feeling. She caught it near enough under my feet so I gave her a bit of a rub and fuss then walked off and called her to follow. She picked it up and trotted along behind me for 30-40 yard before took it off her and gave her more of a fuss. She was a little hesitant about letting go but not too bad, and then tried to take it back [which resulted in the small skin tear on it's hind leg] but told her no and she settled. She'll get better about that with a bit more maturity, overall I can't complain about what happened at all. She had it for tea when we go
  21. Coneytrappr
    Cheers lads, thanks for the kind comments
  22. Coneytrappr
    thanks fellas, Mitch and Matty atb with your pups and hope they do you proud
  23. Coneytrappr
    Vld mate, that colour is called blue fawn, I have one that's similar, although not as deeply coloured as yours. Very nice looking pup by the way, looks very well put together
  24. Coneytrappr
    Cheers, was wonderful seeing it click for her, like she suddenly knew exactly why she existed.
  25. Coneytrappr
    Thanks lads, she has bags of drive and I really couldn't be happier with her at the moment.
×
×
  • Create New...