So the plan is........

[Gav 1,708]

It was -2c yesterday so if that had something in it I don't know, thought it would have been better, very still and thick air, also helped keep the barrel and mod cool

[si brown 8,486]

im no home load genius or anything.. if anything im reluctant to post this but I had a right chew on with my .223 and felt like smashing it it!

I went through every scenario in the book from shite mounts to the glass bed YouTube vids, the other day it all clicked into place and I put it down to the barrel needed loads slinging down it and the loads that were doing the best I upped by 1/2gn and the 55's over 40's won 

recon our sd might be onto something with the fit n shim for peace of mind

[Gav 1,708]

2 minutes ago, si brown said:

im no home load genius or anything.. if anything im reluctant to post this but I had a right chew on with my .223 and felt like smashing it it!

I went through every scenario in the book from shite mounts to the glass bed YouTube vids, the other day it all clicked into place and I put it down to the barrel needed loads slinging down it and the loads that were doing the best I upped by 1/2gn and the 55's over 40's won 

recon our sd might be onto something with the fit n shim for peace of mind

I'm no genious too by any means, I used to think higher loads would chuck them farther, not the case is it! I often find a lighter load will group better.

I've probably only put 300 or so through this now so still running in.

I know its not the sights or mounts as I go back to 100yds and its still cock on, just out past 300yds it turns to shite, I'll try some different loads, which I'm more inclined to believe it is.

Along with the master SD's test solution, hopefully I'll suss it before it ends up bent around a rock

[Sausagedog 7,381]

Sure, new barrels do need breaking in yes.

A process of elimination usually pins it down.

Put some black tape on the mod and shoot through it to check it's been threaded true.

 

When I got my wmr (don't dismiss it being a rimfire) it was very ammo fussy and always had flyers. I was not going to settle for that no way.

On removing the barreled action I could see where the barrel had been running on the stock in the barrel channel!

I also noticed the action inletting had a high spot causing the action to want to rock between the fixings!

Being of low recoil I shimmed the action up on, of all things, thick bridal leather.

Not regretted it one bit, the barrel is well clear of the fore end and the action screws down evenly now. Now the rifle shoots all ammo into 1"+/-.

[si brown 8,486]

3 minutes ago, Gav said:

I'm no genious too by any means, I used to think higher loads would chuck them farther, not the case is it! I often find a lighter load will group better.

I've probably only put 300 or so through this now so still running in.

I know its not the sights or mounts as I go back to 100yds and its still cock on, just out past 300yds it turns to shite, I'll try some different loads, which I'm more inclined to believe it is.

Along with the master SD's test solution, hopefully I'll suss it before it ends up bent around a rock

my mate shot the best and deciding group for me the other day, I put it down to it stressing me out

I watched him stack the mag and with that I smiled and put the fcuker back in the bag!!

[Sausagedog 7,381]

The fact that it preferred lighter loads is telling you something Gav. My money is on that barrel just vibrating on the stock.

[Gav 1,708]

1 minute ago, Sausagedog said:

The fact that it preferred lighter loads is telling you something Gav. My money is on that barrel just vibrating on the stock.

Shame I don't have a 3000fps camera to play with

I will get there, and thanks again pal for all your valuble input and time

[Baldcoot 2,352]

My old n venerable P/H .243  used to random fly till i you tubed how to bed it down and now its sound ,im not but the rifle is .Worth eliminating any extrenous issuses before altering your loads imho.That S/D fella knows a lot more about bang sticks than i do and makes total sense in his ideas atb 

[Sausagedog 7,381]

2 hours ago, Baldcoot said:

My old n venerable P/H .243  used to random fly till i you tubed how to bed it down and now its sound ,im not but the rifle is .Worth eliminating any extrenous issuses before altering your loads imho.That S/D fella knows a lot more about bang sticks than i do and makes total sense in his ideas atb 

Shucks Baldcoot .

 

Yeah my PH was fitted/ bedded nice fore the action but all the way up the left side of the barrel the blueing had worn away in a thin line from kissing the stock during firing.

I whittled the wood away so there was 1/8" clearance for the barrel and that 308 suddenly was putting three bullets down the same hole. It was a long range shotgun before that.

A BSA CF2 was just the same and got the same treatment.

The worst one was a Brno 527 in hornet.

That had a bad stock that the forend was actually bent. If I whittled wood a week later it had moved into the barrel again! I ended up removing the finish and making a jig to hold the stock upside down over a pan of boiling water.

It softened the wood eventually that I could wedge it across and let it cool.

It worked and the wood never moved again.

Lemons are out there but there is usually a fix.

[Gav 1,708]

So I stripped down again, and had a proper look under better light and with my readers on, the only tell tail signs of movement is the recoil lug and reciever, don't know if the photos show it clearly enough, but maybe a good enough reason to glass bed the recoil lug in anyway.

I've also tested clearance on the barrel and there is loads of free movement and clearance using thin card 1/64"

[ianm 2,594]

I don't know if it is the same but on the A bolt i had the trigger was like a rusty bog door latch and definitely not conducive to good groups. At the time i couldn't find an aftermarket trigger for it nor could it be worked on as all the components where die cast. I cured it by swapping it for a Tikka T3. 

[Gav 1,708]

11 minutes ago, ianm said:

I don't know if it is the same but on the A bolt i had the trigger was like a rusty bog door latch and definitely not conducive to good groups. At the time i couldn't find an aftermarket trigger for it nor could it be worked on as all the components where die cast. I cured it by swapping it for a Tikka T3. 

I was just trying to find the spring kit for this, knocks it down from 4.5lbs to 2lbs, its just a spring under the sear but can't find any in the UK. Shame they're not adjustable like the T-bolts etc. I know what you mean about rusty bog door though

[si brown 8,486]

recon your on to something with the glasswork Gav, cant always get the perception right from a photo but that recoil lug dont look like its running true!

I watched a fait few YouTube vids and it dont look hard to do.. I was at the point of doing the 85 till the other day

[Sausagedog 7,381]

There is no pillar bedding either!

By all means bed the lug but if it were mine it would be shimmed.

Get that barrel out of the channel Gav.

Can you get the trigger spring out?

If so measure its length, it's diameter and it's wire thickness. You can then go on eBay to find one with less wire thickness or tell me and I can go and check my stock of springs.

[Rimfireboy! 1,463]

Is there any flex in the forend Gav? Maybe the barrel is free floating until the gun is on a bipod and then the forend might flex under weight and touch the barrel? I’ve had this before. Just a thought, then I might be talking shite?