Cleaning barrels with phosphor bronze brushes

[kieran222 0]

I bought a Deben Universal Gun Cleaning Kit a few months ago and have used the brushes to clean the barrel on my Tikka T3 Lite and Sako Quad on a few occasions. I have since read the TIKKA T3 Manual which I later downloaded from the net (didn’t get one with the gun) and they only suggest using the swabs to clean the barrel. Does anybody have any suggestions/thoughts on, if and how often the brushes should be used?

[Rake aboot 4,929]

The brushes should be fine. I used them on my Tika t3 with no ill effects,,only a clean barrel!

The brush is softer than the barrel so should not even scratch it.

[sako trg 1]

I bought a Deben Universal Gun Cleaning Kit a few months ago and have used the brushes to clean the barrel on my Tikka T3 Lite and Sako Quad on a few occasions. I have since read the TIKKA T3 Manual which I later downloaded from the net (didnt get one with the gun) and they only suggest using the swabs to clean the barrel. Does anybody have any suggestions/thoughts on, if and how often the brushes should be used?

I apply the solvent with a patch,then about 6 passes with the brush then back to the patches till they pass through clean then send a patch through with a little lube on it to finish.my guns shoot fine no ill effects.dont go mad with the lube as sage points out you dont want it running back into your action. :thumbs:forgot to mention always use a bore guide if you dont already.

Edited March 26, 2010 by sako trg

[jamie g 17]

you can get a nylon brush mate if it worrys you. thats what i use

[danebrewer10 6]

lets put things into perspective here- the powder propels a copper jacketed bullet down the bore at 2500fps plus and a whole lot of pressure and heat- ypu are only pushing a brush down the bore and 0.5-1 fps!

bronze is an alloy of copper and tin, this is really not that much harder than copper (sorry to the metallurgists if this is wrong!) and much softer than steel, the bronze brush will not damage your bore in any way- I run a solvent wetted bronze brush down the bore a few times and leave it to soak, I then clean with solvent wetted patches alternating with dry patches until they come out more or less clean, I then run the bronze brush through again and leave for a short while- no more than 5 mins- then I do the same procedure until the patches come out clean (I may cut out the second soaking and just run the brush through if I have only shot a few rounds- less than 5 say)- my Anschutz will shoot groups smaller than a 5p when clamped in a rest so I don't think the brush has hurt it in any way!

 

Cheers!

DB

Edited March 26, 2010 by danebrewer10

[Deker 3,455]

If I remember correctly the manual for my T3 Lite Stainless .223 actually sats DON'T use the brush.

 

Interesting situation as you would think the brush is very mild compared to a bullet. Anyway, one reason is because the rifling (on mine anyway) is very fine, so care needs to be taken cleaning.

 

I do my best to deal with the situation with patches but I most certainly do put the brush down it as well when I feel it is required!!

[andyf 144]

I bought a Deben Universal Gun Cleaning Kit a few months ago and have used the brushes to clean the barrel on my Tikka T3 Lite and Sako Quad on a few occasions. I have since read the TIKKA T3 Manual which I later downloaded from the net (didn’t get one with the gun) and they only suggest using the swabs to clean the barrel. Does anybody have any suggestions/thoughts on, if and how often the brushes should be used?

Phoshor bronze brushes are fine, no worry there.

However I suggest you get a bore guide, this is a tube which replaces the bolt when you remove it to clean the bore.

You can get gun specific types if you have a 'common' make rifle, or a universal one if you don't, Midway UK website has a

whole bunch of gear for cleaning if you can't find one elsewhere.

AndyF

[RicW 67]

This one has bothered me a bit. Straight bronze is, as DB said, softer than steel. BUT! phosphor bronze has, surprise surprise, phosphorus included in the alloy mix, and it can be very hard indeed - certainly much harder than mild steel. Brushes should be made from a flexible alloy, so there should be no problem. But who knows how close the batch control is? I'd suggest regular cleaning with nylon brushes - but I have to admit to being Mr Armchair Shooter. On the other hand, when I worked in a boatyard we used phosphor bronze in preference to 18/8 stainless steel because it was harder (and more corrosion resistant!)

 

Ric

[SNAP SHOT 194]

phos. brushes can be used to get the crud out if the rifle barrel has been neglected for a term..... and a copper cleaning routine will show little signs of copper if using these brushes...

 

nylon brushes are fine... a bore guide is necessary........ i use WD 40 and a phos brush, and do a few passes through the bore. wait 10 mins, apply more WD to the brush

 

and do about 20 passes... this removes the carbon particles that the nylon brush simply won't shift....

 

then back to patches and solvent....

 

Snap.

[danebrewer10 6]

this is an interesting one, It seems an interesting one... It seems quite a few peopl advocate the use of a bore guide, I spoke to my Gunshop and they said they sell hardly any, I don't use one on my HMR and I haven't had any issues, surely if you are using a plastic coated or carbon fibre rod then this isn't an issue?

 

DB

[dicehorn 38]

.... i use WD 40 and a phos brush, and do a few passes through the bore. wait 10 mins, apply more WD to the brush

 

and do about 20 passes... this removes the carbon particles that the nylon brush simply won't shift....

 

then back to patches and solvent....

 

Snap.

 

With very much respect SS whilst I would agree that WD 40 may remove some of the carbon from the bore where it lies thinly in the bore, but the main build up of carbon occurs in the throat of the bore and WD 40 will not remove this. Just about the only way to remove this is by using a paste very sparingly such as J B Compound.

 

Peter

[jamie g 17]

i use kg1 carbon remover on patches and never have any problem with carbon build up.

 

after you patch it out use some degreaser and then that will flush it all out.

 

then patch it dry

Edited March 29, 2010 by jamie g

[iamduvern 62]

Interesting topic

[SNAP SHOT 194]

.... i use WD 40 and a phos brush, and do a few passes through the bore. wait 10 mins, apply more WD to the brush

 

and do about 20 passes... this removes the carbon particles that the nylon brush simply won't shift....

 

then back to patches and solvent....

 

Snap.

 

With very much respect SS whilst I would agree that WD 40 may remove some of the carbon from the bore where it lies thinly in the bore, but the main build up of carbon occurs in the throat of the bore and WD 40 will not remove this. Just about the only way to remove this is by using a paste very sparingly such as J B Compound.

 

Peter

 

quite rightly mate, i'm reffering to light carbon build up that can be removed with a soak and scrub of wd.....

 

if thebore is looked after of course....

 

[Toni from N.Z. 2]

.... i use WD 40 and a phos brush, and do a few passes through the bore. wait 10 mins, apply more WD to the brush

 

and do about 20 passes... this removes the carbon particles that the nylon brush simply won't shift....

 

then back to patches and solvent....

 

Snap.

 

With very much respect SS whilst I would agree that WD 40 may remove some of the carbon from the bore where it lies thinly in the bore, but the main build up of carbon occurs in the throat of the bore and WD 40 will not remove this. Just about the only way to remove this is by using a paste very sparingly such as J B Compound.

 

Peter

 

quite rightly mate, i'm reffering to light carbon build up that can be removed with a soak and scrub of wd.....

 

if thebore is looked after of course....

 

Helllo from N.Z.

Have been using sporterised Swede, Mauser for 1\4 centuary.Lovely calibre.I clean with Hoppes No.9 and nylon brush.I dont use brush to scrub bore,rather I use it to apply solvent and let solvent do cleaning.I brush gently, only few passes then smoke a pipe while solvent works.Re apply solvent and use brush gently to scrub solvent into fouling,freeing it up and helping fresh solvent penetrate.A few firm pull-thru's and perhaps another application of Hoppes,another pipe and a couple clean patches.Some interesting replies on this subject.Best Wishes to All Toni.