Jump to content

dadioles

Members
  • Content Count

    286
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dadioles

  1. I just spent the past half hour examining a few boxes of Hornady .17 17gr v-max All the same batch E05R15, I have had them for quite a few months. 350 bullets in total 1 bullet had a deformed head - I have no doubt that it would shoot ok but feel sure that it would be a flier, never noticed one quite like it before. 37 bullets have a fine crack in the neck (call it 10%) 312 bullets appear perfect. After shooting several thousand bullets I have never had one stuck in the barrel or a misfire caused by a bad bullet. If the weather is ok tomorrow I will setup the Chronograph and se
  2. It is a bit like being caught between a rock and a hard place. I too get a great deal of pleasure from shooting targets but have no interest in joining a club and shooting competitively. In reality I use up more bullets shooting at targets than I do shooting at rabbits and other vermin but I consider it to be essential practice and a necessary part of my "reason" which is control of vermin. My advice to Alex is either to join a club and follow the conventional target shooting route or be rather more serious about vermin control as the reason for requiring a firearm and find someone
  3. You say that you want the night vision for rabbit and fox but I wonder what is the balance between the two. If you intend to eat the rabbit and rabbit is the main quarry, use a .22lr with the night vision. You will shoot fairly flat from 35 to 60 yards and you will not want to be shooting any further than that on rabbits as you will only have 5x magnification or thereabouts with dedicated night vision. Noise is a major issue in some areas at night. Where I am even the .17 hmr would be unsociable. You may not want to attract attention. If fox is an important quarry and you need t
  4. If you have an Anschutz with a short barrel, make sure that there is enough barrel sticking out beyond the stock if you are thinking of getting an over barrel type moderator. I use a DM80 on mine and I am very happy with it. As Mega Hunter says, there is not much difference between any of the moderators as far as noise reduction is concerned and SAK is as good as any.
  5. When I first read that I thought - 'no, he has got that wrong, there is no such law' But... Of course it is down to the 'Conditions' on your licence and that has the force of law. Alsone is quite correct and it is just one more thing to be aware of. You cannot use a gun and ammunition obtained for vermin for target shooting. Presumably target shooting requires membership of a club. My licence is quite specific and my rifle and ammunition may ONLY be used for .... vermin, ground game.... for zeroing on ranges etc. etc. Nice one Alsone. Obviously the term zeroing can be appli
  6. Well done indeed. It sounds as though you are sorted. That is about as accurate as you will get. You have done your bit, the variation is now almost entirely down to the ammunition and the weather and there is not a lot you can do about that.
  7. The scary thing is that some idiot might take you seriously and try it. I am all for a joke but sometimes it gets irresponsible - sorry. Your post really should be removed. In about 5000 rounds of Hornady 17gr v-max I have not had a single duff round. A few times they have failed to fire but that was because I had not properly seated the bolt and they fired the second time after a quick re-set. My bullets are stored indoors in a safe in a warm dry room. I buy 500 at a time. Is it possible that poor (damp?) storage (home or dealer) could be a cause in some cases? A crack in the ca
  8. There is no copper residue As SS said, there are loads of .22lr with copper coats, who knows what the original owner has shot, or indeed what the op may shoot! Fair point. I was assuming typical all lead subsonic rounds but that is an unreasonable assumption. Cleaning for copper will do no harm at all. Try a drop of meths on the last but one patch, it will clean out any residue from the solvents and finish with a dry patch. I find full accuracy returns after just one shot (SK Subs)..
  9. Despite what your feo seems to have said about using a .17hmr for fox I think that may be bad advice in terms of application for a licence. There is nothing wrong with using a .17hmr for fox under the right circumstances but generally speaking you will not get away with using fox as 'good reason' for having an hmr. It is safer to put down vermin control (specifically rabbits) and ask for 'any other lawful quarry' which is quite standard these days. Read the Home Office Guidance. If you want a rifle for fox control, most areas will require centrefire. I did not understand wh
  10. Yes, sorry if I seem to be giving you a hard time. Do continue to ask questions. All credit to you for that. Best wishes and happy shooting.
  11. There is no copper residue Get a bore guide (look it up on google), a rod, jag and patches and maybe a brush all suitable for .22 then use a cleaning fluid such as Hoppes #9 which deals with lead and powder residues. Incidentally - I hate the 'bore snake' and will not allow one anywhere near any of my rifles. All the information you could need is on the internet and there are videos on youtube about using rods and patches and bore guides. There is also a lot of nonsense and misinformation of course, you need to engage your brain and filter out the bad stuff. It sounds as tho
  12. Well done, you will enjoy your shooting. I find that to get the best 'flat' shooting I need to zero a bit further, 50 metres or 55 yards, but it depends on your gun and ammunition. Chairgun gives a reasonable idea of what to expect but there is no substitute for time spent shooting targets at different ranges and making up your own range chart based on 'real world'. Have you tried a few different makes of bullet. If not, you really need to. It is surprising what a difference it makes. Buy a box each of whatever your local dealer keeps in stock (and is likely to continue to keep in
  13. The mans a new starter,and he has shown a bit of humility and asked for help,that's why he got it,not every body was lucky enough to be born into a shooting family, or chose to take the sport up at a early age, despite what people think it is his right to take up what ever legal pastimes he wants to,after the help he got on here he will probably view this forum, as being populated by a large amount of country sports people, who have a wealth of knowledge,on almost all aspects of the sport,and if its not here in England there's a huge following abroad,this forum opened my eye's as I heard a lot
  14. How the hell does someone who knows so little about shooting get a firearms licence and a shotgun licence? All credit to him for asking for help on this forum though and I do wish him luck. It does make me wonder though..... Buy a .22lr from a gun shop, go out and try to shoot rabbits at 100 yards, find the scope is not zeroed, go back to the gun shop, get a new scope and walk out with a shotgun as well. What is the world coming to?
  15. The 50ft rule is pretty redundant these days and it is hard to think of when it could be used against a sensible shooter. As a gun owner you should know your law! In your situation my main concern, apart from the obvious issues of safety, would be to make sure that the person asking me to shoot the geese has the proper legal authority to give that permission. That he owns the property "land owner / occupier" and also the lake and anywhere else that you need access with your gun. I would be concerned that there are no issues with the residents of what sounds a bit like an old peoples hom
  16. One tip... You mentioned the price included 300 rounds of ammunition. Dealers tend to throw that in as part of a deal but it is not much good to you if those 300 rounds don't really suit your gun. I suggest you get a box each of whatever the dealer has in stock and then find out what suits the rifle best. Zero at 50 yards and you should get groups at that distance which fit in the area of a 20p coin but only with the right ammunition. Broadly speaking, you will be able to shoot from 15 to 55 yards 'flat', meaning within an area of one inch or less without holdover or holdunder
  17. I am never really convinced about the term "good quality mounts" on a rimfire. There is very little recoil and these days most mounts seem to be pretty good quality despite considerable variation in price. It is important to fit the mounts correctly so that everything lines up properly and obviously the screws must be tight (what is tight? I have seen some real bodged jobs). When zeroed, you do not want the turrets wound anywhere near their extremes. The nearer the middle the better. There is more to setting up a scope correctly than a lot of people realise.
  18. "I zeroed my Anshutz 1417 .22 lr last week and got it spot on at 50 yards, took it out last night and missed two rabbits clean at about 90 yards, guessed at the holdover." In my view 90 yards is an awful long way to guess at the holdover when you have only zeroed at 50 yards. 50 yards is fairly optimum for the .22lr but things open up somewhat after that and I would guess that your drop at "about 90 yards" is going to be 4 inches or more and it would not take more than a very slight wind to knock it significantly sideways and at that distance a rabbit is still quite a small target even
  19. You will have to read quicker rimmer - 2 mins...... My guess is that a rabbit or other animal would be unable to place the source of a supersonic crack, or at least not relate it to where the rifle is located. There is no real directional source it is "fuzzy" and more overhead than anything as it is generated by, and is a short distance behind, the bullet. They might all bolt down the nearest hole but I think it will be more "what the f..k was that" rather than "there is a bloke over there shooting at us". Maybe the flash and puff of smoke is the real give away. Apart from the one t
  20. Part of the problem is one of perception. People think of the bullet as "breaking the sound barrier", rather like smashing through an egg shell, a single event. That is not what happens. A bullet fired from a gun will accelerate while in the barrel but assuming a complete burn of the powder the bullet is decelerating as it leaves the barrel and continuing to slow down thereafter. While in the barrel, the bullet is accelerated to a speed greater than the speed of sound and a pressure wave is built up which effectively travels with (behind) the bullet and is continuous. You will
  21. As Deker says, for first issue of a firearms certificate it will generally be "closed". It varies from one police force to another and it seems to be a matter of whim rather than regulation. Some people get an open certificate at the start while others have to wait until renewal. It is entirely at the discretion of the "chief constable". A "closed" certificate simply means that the "shooter" can only shoot over land that has been previously approved for the calibre concerned by the chief constable. Most farm land has already been approved (over decades) but it is up to the shooter to c
  22. Although it is not a legal requirement I have always made sure that I have written permission from the landowner and not just verbal. In your case it is slightly more dodgy as you are relying on the word of someone other than the landowner and you do not really know if the person with permission has the lawful authority to give you permission. It is so easy to knock up a simple permission slip and get it signed by the landowner and that way your back is covered. The same applies to checking whether the ground has been approved by the police for your calibre. If it is farm land I am s
  23. It depends on what you are comparing them with and what your expectations are. I have seen figures (Varmint Al and others) which show that the .22lr is affected more by the wind than the .17hmr. At 100 yards with a 90 degree 10mph crosswind the hmr was deflected about 3 inches and the .22lr about 5 inches. At 50 yards the wind still affects the .22lr slightly more than the hmr but for all practical purposes it is about one inch. So what can you conclude from that? I shoot rabbits and most of the time go for head shots. Wind is often a bit gusty rather than steady and as dista
  24. Given that the noise of an hmr at night is unlikely to be too intrusive given your distance from neighbours, it sounds as though the hmr will compliment fac air quite nicely and mean that you can skip the .22lr. From what you have described you should not have any problem getting a fac on that basis with your land and the only slight question mark may be over centrefire for foxes. Apply for centrefire and see what happens, you do not have anything to lose. You would not be wise to put down foxes against your hmr as it is not generally recognised by the police for that purpose, justify
  25. An impossible question to answer without more info. As far as meat damage is concerned, the hmr is far more damaging than .22lr but that also means humane kills at greater ranges. Meat damage is not an issue with head shots and even if shot in the upper chest area the saddle and back legs (the only bit I keep theses days) is fine. All the answers you could possibly need are in these forums, just search through earlier posts.
×
×
  • Create New...