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Grim Reaper

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Everything posted by Grim Reaper

  1. I am glad you took my perspective well mate, i meant no offence;) Yeah, ok i can see what you were meaning now (i think) thanks to your last comments. I have to say that i am in agreement with whats already been said really , and unfortunately (for you in your circumstances) CO2 rifles in general work with just too many variables. Thereby, any tuning work undertaken would, in all essence, be virtually worthless really, in terms of a consistent performance and accuracy? I know its not what you want to hear bud, but if you can see your way to putting some cash away over a period
  2. Right, ok . . . . . . my understanding of it is: (and i am more than willing to stand corrected on this) Firearms Certificate is required to possess a: Rim Fire rifle (R/F) usually a cartridge that has no percussion cap in the centre, and is fired by the cartridge rim being pinched by the firing pin. There are various calibres are availabe. Centre Fire rifle (C/F) rifle (again, various calibres are available, and the noticable difference is that with these cartridges, there is a little percussion cap in the centre of it - hence the name C/F Tactical Shotgun [Correct?] - those
  3. Seconded! I had an old Westlake B2 .177 springer years ago (my first air rifle, as it goes) and all i found it was good for was for using in the garden plinking. Saying that, I once did manage to shoot meself in the foot with it (I think i was trying to emulate an old movie cowboy trick of shooting the rifle rested between my crossed feet while lying on my back) - i was young and impressionable then . . . . . and it dint work niether!! All the best, Grim
  4. im sure your right criss,i did not say i was hunting with it and the question i aked was ho to tune it up so as i could hunt with it,with all due respect. This is correct (in so far as you didn't say you were hunting with it) but in Chris' defence, you had indicated you wanted to though? You were asked in a previous post whether you would be hunting with it - to which your answer was (and I quote) "yep but mainly at knight . . . ." Please don't think of me as interfering, I am only trying to avert any ill feelings guys. Regards, Grim PS: Er . . . . .I'll grab the po
  5. Silly question but, exactly what type of licence are you asking about mate? They each have different age limits as well as having their own conditions, and so to give a good answer, you need to expand or qualify the question a wee bit more? Hope this helps you in your enquiries. Regards, Grim Edited for typo's.
  6. Oh . . . .it will be - rest assured! In fact, once you get used to it, you'll find it is better than 'good' mate? I wouldn't part with the S310 for anything, nothing, nada - end of. All the best, Grim
  7. i totally agree with chris.it doesnt matter what Caliber you are using its the kill zone which counts and how well you know your gun and scope.... alot of guy use 22 cal for hunting and say 177 are for woman but 177 will do the trick every time if you hit in the kill zone. 177 runs flatter and lets you Shoot Further its just knowing your gun I couldn't agree more Chris and Spuddy - well said, both of you! I have seen so, so many ' what calibre is best' threads in the past, so all I will say to the matter is that its a case of whatever feels and performs right for you (a
  8. Its ok to start at 10 yards, thats looking good mate - Rome weren't built in a day, after all. This is the first step along the way to zero'ing the scope to rifle. The way I have always done it is to start (as you have) at 10 yards - got the scope spot on for that and then start over again at say, 15 yards. once zero'ed, increase distance from target by 5 yard increments and each time just re-adjust the turrets to get you to the stage where the pellet impact is spot bollock on to the cross hair centre - time after time. As a rule, i zero at 35 yards - I find this (for me) to be a happy
  9. I'm no bloodhound of course, I have to say. Cheers, Grim
  10. No worries - glad to help out. The boiled water trick has never failed for me yet - the last time i used it was when i took my original AA mod apart to look at the specs, which in turn is what made me want to buy the weirarch mod. The AA mod is now back together and acting as a spare if i should need it. Regards, Grim.
  11. Why, thankyou ol' bean! Regards, Grim
  12. Hope this helps you mate All the Best, Grim
  13. You CAN do it yourself if you use a sash clamp (which you set in say, a bench mounted vice ) - you use the sash clamp to take up the strength of the coiled spring, and then gradually as you loosen the clamp, the spring power will lessen to a point whereby you can then pull out the spring by hand safely. I did it using this method when i gave my old springer a service ( de-grease, lube, and seals) and it worked very well, i have to say. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the above. All the best, Grim Edited for typo's
  14. cheers So how are you getting on, Fergie - any replies yet? Regards, Grim
  15. Hello and welcome aboard! I suggest you pull up a chair and enjoy your stay ! Regards, Grim
  16. Hi there, and welcome to the board! I am sure you will find it very interesting and helpfull here - we're a good crowd really All the best, Grim
  17. Yep, Harris are 'top of the shop' in the field of bi-pods. Like the man says, "you get what you pay for" in this respect. Cheers, Grim
  18. And I would have to say I'd agree with him 100% - I certainly can't say anything bad about them. I don't regret the day I got it - no sir! All the best, Grim
  19. Cheers for confirming my thoughts on this Duck - much appreciated! And I'm just glad to see that you have seemed to have solved the problem in hand. All the best, Grim
  20. Like i said, it was a silly question. I'm not overly familliar with the S200 range you see. I can't see AA making it so you can't remove the mag at any time as due to the nature of our game, there will be times when you need and have to do this? I will certainly do my best to try and help you out. Regards, Grim
  21. Hmmm . . .'tis certainly a strange one if you can't remove the mag when it (the rifle) is going thru the pellets? I know on mine (the S310) i can take the mag out when i need to, just by pulling the bolt fully out and removing the mag. This (for me) leaves the barrel empty and the mag is out of the action. Silly question but as i'm not very familliar with the S200 range, so i will ask it anyway: Have you tried fully pulling the bolt to the rear with one hand and extracting the mag with the other? this is what i do with mine you see. Mind you, it has to be pulled fully to the rear
  22. Congratulations on being approached by the said landowner mate! I wish you the very best of luck Sean, I hope you pull it off - let us know how it goes bud Regards, Terry / Grim
  23. Cheers! I'm just glad that matters didn't move on from civil greetings and talk - thats why i made damn sure he saw me unload my air rifle magazine, empty the barrel into the ground, and put the rifle down on the ground. I also thought it was better to let him come to me - it hopefully showed him that he was in control of the situation. At that point, his shotgun was closed and i wasn't arguing! lol All the best, Terry / Grim
  24. Thanks Sean, It may well come to nothing, but yes, either way I will post the results up. You can never know who you will come across on a shoot, and so you can never be too carefull. Just goes to show that we are always being watched while we are out and about at our game. Cheers, Grim.
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