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How To Zero .17Hmr


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I bought a .17HMR last year. When I tried to zero it, I found that beyond 60 yards it was pretty difficult to keep the rifle steady enough to produce a reliable series of shots upon which scope adjustments could be made. That and a realisation that my cleaning regime was not right meant a lost confidence in it.

 

The game season has intervened and so I haven't had the rifle out for a few months but want to try again now.

 

I was using a bean bag under the fore-end of the rifle, resting on the bonnet of my 4x4. I typically fired 3 to 5 shots and then checked the target to see where I was shooting.

 

Anyone got any tips as I would like to be shooting reliably at 100 yards? Amazingly, not much comes up if you google this but the great thing about this forum is that I can ask the question.

 

cheers

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I lay in the back of my truck and zero off a bipod..   I shoot 5 rounds and take an average then adjust accordingly...

I normally stick my 17hmr in a workman bench and then put something soft around it then screw it up until tight and then fire and then adjust the scope never had any problems doing it this way. Or occ

You need to ensure that the rifle is fully supported under the forend and that you can release the shot without any movement at all, the barrel must be totally free. I use filled range bags on my 4x

What kind of rifle/ammunition are you using? And what were the size of the groups were you getting? Have you tried other brands of ammunition?

 

May I ask what was wrong with the cleaning you were doing? I've no experience with .17 HMR yet, but my .22LR doesn't seem to need much in the way of cleaning at all.

 

I'm planning on buying a Marlin in .17 HMR this year for fox and hare as I've only heard good things about the accuracy of the calibre in general (that and the fact that it's the minimum legal calibre for both over here).

 

Cheers

T_T

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Have you got/had any other rifles?

 

Prone is good, as much support as possible, (ie firm base), as still a day as possible, get comfortable, best not to use too High a scope magnification usually, and stop if you get tired, even if the job isn't done.

 

:thumbs:

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What kind of rifle/ammunition are you using? And what were the size of the groups were you getting? Have you tried other brands of ammunition?

 

May I ask what was wrong with the cleaning you were doing? I've no experience with .17 HMR yet, but my .22LR doesn't seem to need much in the way of cleaning at all.

 

I'm planning on buying a Marlin in .17 HMR this year for fox and hare as I've only heard good things about the accuracy of the calibre in general (that and the fact that it's the minimum legal calibre for both over here).

 

Cheers

T_T

There seems to be a lot of discussion about cleaning and the balance of opinion is that cleaning is necessary with the .17HMR unlike many calibres although I know some disagree with that. When I bought the rifle and didn't have a clue, the gun shop "threw in" a bore snake which was crap (broke very quickly) and not much liked by serious rifle shooters so I've discovered.

 

Since the bore snake had broken I hadn't been able to clean the rifle so that was what was wrong with my cleaning! I latterly bought a wire brush and cleaning rod and was amazed at what muck was in the barrel. However winter shotgun shooting has intervened.

 

I have been using Hornady which people seem to think are fine. My problem is not so much about cleaning or ammo but more about how to keep the gun absolutely still whilst zero-ing. Otherwise, you can't rely on the shots to make scope adjustments.

 

I was shooting 1 inch groups at 60 yards but at 100 yards they were spraying around too much.

Edited by Beefbeefbeef
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Have you got/had any other rifles?

 

Prone is good, as much support as possible, (ie firm base), as still a day as possible, get comfortable, best not to use too High a scope magnification usually, and stop if you get tired, even if the job isn't done.

 

:thumbs:

No, I've 30 years experience with shotguns and airguns but this is my first rifle.

 

Maybe crouching over the barrel of my truck was not giving as steady a position as I could get when prone. Will try that.

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I normally stick my 17hmr in a workman bench and then put something soft around it then screw it up until tight and then fire and then adjust the scope never had any problems doing it this way. Or occasionally i do it of the bipod with a gun bag under the stock.

 

atb

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You need to ensure that the rifle is fully supported under the forend and that you can release the shot without

any movement at all, the barrel must be totally free.

I use filled range bags on my 4x4 bonnet. start at 50 yards (those '17' holes are very small to start with so try 'shoot and see'

laminated target spots that splash a bright ring of colour around the bullet hole).

When you have corrected the scope adjustment to get holes at the aim point, then move the target out to 100 and start again

you should only need to adjust elevation, but at greater distance any small deviation at close range gets magnified.

I owned a 17 HMR for 18 months when they first came out, mine was zeroed at 75 yards and was good from 50 out to 130+

on that set point. But your needs may be different.

Chuck away that bore snake, it'll ruin the crown, afraid you'll need to get a Dewey rod and the requisite brushes and mops

expensive but unfortunately required.

AF

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Yeah also watch your amount of zoom. The more you magnify the image, the more you magnify any slight movement or shake.

 

Try it with a pair of binoculars and see what I mean. There's such a thing as too much of a good thing. That's why many target shooters use a bench rest.

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Just a quick 1.I get my hmr in 2 weeks If I zero at 100 yards using 7x mag if I was to shoot at a rabbit using 10-12x mag would it still produce the same poi?

 

I understand the aim points will be different. I zero my .22lr at 60 yards on 6x mag and never use any other mag. But obviosly using a HMR ill be shooting at greater range.

 

Thanks in advance

Atb

Dan

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