fry 209 Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 hi all thought the title would grab some of your attention! i am sorting out a ancient haenel 302 for a mates lad, has any one had much to do with leather cup piston seals the guy at chambers said to soak it in engine oil for 24 hours prior to fitting which i have done but it still feels pretty stiff to me! (ooo matron) should i soak it longer? or is it good to go? cheers any advice appreciated. 1 Quote Link to post
graham4877 1,181 Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 was just getting the rag out n pulling my pants down..spoil sport :laugh: give it a longer soak, if your not happy but keep an eye on it Quote Link to post
moxy 617 Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 I would give it a light sand with a very fine grit paper or wire wool. This should allow the oil to permeate a little better. Make sure it's spotlessly clean before fitting. Depending on the type of leather it may not soften too much But soaking for a while longer wont hurt Quote Link to post
fry 209 Posted November 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 thanks lads Quote Link to post
andyfr1968 772 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 Don't use engine oil!!!! You need to soak it in a pure silicon oil. It'll diesel like feck otherwise. Quote Link to post
fry 209 Posted November 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 (edited) Don't use engine oil!!!! You need to soak it in a pure silicon oil. It'll diesel like feck otherwise. bloody hell andy i phoned chambers where i bought the really expensive fcukin washer and specifically asked should i use SILICONE oil and was told definitely no i had to use thin engine oil WTF !!!! so now what should i do mate ? Edited November 24, 2012 by fry Quote Link to post
fry 209 Posted November 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 (edited) dried it right off it had become more pliable put a spot of silicone oil on it and whacked it together put about 30 pellets through it and it stopped dieseling after about 15 happy days! zeroing it now in garden from back of lounge about 20 yards. its not a pro sport but from a 10 ear old kids point of view its going to be ace. if he can pull the trigger lol it is a bit stiff lol. one more question for you all aa fields are a bit slack in the breach does any one know which pellets have the thinnest longest skirts in .22 cheers Edited November 24, 2012 by fry Quote Link to post
pianoman 3,593 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 Try RWS Superfields. They're pretty long, thin skirted Fry. Good quality-made pellet too! Best wishes. Simon 1 Quote Link to post
Deker 3,491 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 Don't use engine oil!!!! You need to soak it in a pure silicon oil. It'll diesel like feck otherwise. bloody hell andy i phoned chambers where i bought the really expensive fcukin washer and specifically asked should i use SILICONE oil and was told definitely no i had to use thin engine oil WTF !!!! so now what should i do mate ? If I said ignore Chambers, who have been doing this for donkeys, sold you the part, and have a bigger selection of air rifle parts than probably anyone in the world, and told you to soak it in dog piss, then who would you believe? Quote Link to post
Deker 3,491 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 dried it right off it had become more pliable put a spot of silicone oil on it and whacked it together put about 30 pellets through it and it stopped dieseling after about 15 happy days! zeroing it now in garden from back of lounge about 20 yards. its not a pro sport but from a 10 ear old kids point of view its going to be ace. if he can pull the trigger lol it is a bit stiff lol. one more question for you all aa fields are a bit slack in the breach does any one know which pellets have the thinnest longest skirts in .22 cheers I have very little knowledge of this rifle, is it .177 or .22 or what? AA field used to come in 3 x .22 sizes, 5.5, 5.51 and 5.52, same equivalent in .177 I think. The 5.5 have gone now, look at the bottom of the tin, it will tell you what size you have. If you are talking about a true .22 you may want to consider Eley Wasp Blue! Quote Link to post
gurtwurz 793 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 (edited) Don't use engine oil!!!! You need to soak it in a pure silicon oil. It'll diesel like feck otherwise. bloody hell andy i phoned chambers where i bought the really expensive fcukin washer and specifically asked should i use SILICONE oil and was told definitely no i had to use thin engine oil WTF !!!! so now what should i do mate ? If I said ignore Chambers, who have been doing this for donkeys, sold you the part, and have a bigger selection of air rifle parts than probably anyone in the world, and told you to soak it in dog piss, then who would you believe? i'd definitely leave the dog piss out, but i'd believe andy, as he worked in the gun trade and has a very good reputation on here for tuning rifles, my own and pianomans included. Edited November 24, 2012 by gurtwurz Quote Link to post
fry 209 Posted November 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 thanks every one i been hitting in safety pin heads only at 17 yards as thats all i have bloody stiff trigger tho not the most elegant rifle but when my mate gave it me it was full of worm holes and rusty as a shopping trolley from a duck pond i rubbed it down as much as poss reblued it, filled worm holes with arraldite sanded and oiled it, managed to get snapped off screws out. it started off putting out 5.6 and has crept up to nearly 8 now with less than 60 pellets through it. but its only a plinker for a 10 year old heres the pics the brass cap is an old penny with the safety in works a teat lol. this was the state before this was actually in the end of the piston cylinder you can see where its been hammered to the shape of the small exit port an these are this morning Quote Link to post
Deker 3,491 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 (edited) Don't use engine oil!!!! You need to soak it in a pure silicon oil. It'll diesel like feck otherwise. bloody hell andy i phoned chambers where i bought the really expensive fcukin washer and specifically asked should i use SILICONE oil and was told definitely no i had to use thin engine oil WTF !!!! so now what should i do mate ? If I said ignore Chambers, who have been doing this for donkeys, sold you the part, and have a bigger selection of air rifle parts than probably anyone in the world, and told you to soak it in dog piss, then who would you believe? i'd definitely leave the dog piss out, but i'd believe andy, as he worked in the gun trade and has a very good reputation on here for tuning rifles, my own and pianomans included. ...and Chambers know nothing about air rifles???? ....and yeh, I think the dog piss could honk a bit under pressure! Edited November 24, 2012 by Deker Quote Link to post
Deker 3,491 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 Is that a JSR 6-24x50 on that? If you are getting that sort of accuracy and repeatability then rifle, pellet, scope and shooter are working fine! 1 Quote Link to post
inan 841 Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 hi all thought the title would grab some of your attention! i am sorting out a ancient haenel 302 for a mates lad, has any one had much to do with leather cup piston seals the guy at chambers said to soak it in engine oil for 24 hours prior to fitting which i have done but it still feels pretty stiff to me! (ooo matron) should i soak it longer? or is it good to go? cheers any advice appreciated. I thought it was about giving some one an anal leathering, you've wasted my time,I shall report you to the mods. 2 Quote Link to post
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