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Or8 lads, jus got back in to the sport after a few years and got my self a first cross collie/greyhound bitch now 5mth old and is some times not responding to coming bk to heel when called of the lead never exp this we other 2 dogs had before, is this jus down to her age and any ideas on nipping it in the bud if not thanks

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Or8 lads, jus got back in to the sport after a few years and got my self a first cross collie/greyhound bitch now 5mth old and is some times not responding to coming bk to heel when called of the lead never exp this we other 2 dogs had before, is this jus down to her age and any ideas on nipping it in the bud if not thanks

well thats a bit strange really, as most 1x colliexgreys are very easy to train more so bitchs than dogs. Ive had 3 colliexgreys all easy to train,did youhave pup from 8 weeks old. As you had dogs before just do the same, go back to lead work.Do more recall on lead with treat reward. once she knows you are boss and what you say goes, she will not go deaf, just keep up with lead+recall till you feel improvement she will soon stop.

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yeah had her from young take her out to work me all time so got the bond there she can be a bit stubborn on things like thinking the couch his hers an its her right to lie on it everything else is good jus this selective deafness at times.

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My collie grey went through a phase like that at around the same age, it last about two months.

Try not to loose you temper, collie crosses never forget, you just want to ride out this phase. Come a year the and the dog will be falling over itself to please you.

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It sounds as though you haven't laid down enough clear ground rules: the claiming the sofa as its own is a very clear indication of this. Start by removing such privileges. A dog must earn the good things in life, and that includes attention from you. Don't ever let the pup come up and demand your attention. If it does, turn away and ignore it. It is fine to give a dog lots of fuss and love and cuddles, but it must always be on your terms, not when the dog demands it: follow this rule for the first year at least, and maybe forever if the dog is a pushy sort who wants to make up the rules for itself.

 

Don't let yours on the sofa unless YOU invite it up there. It's all about knowing its place in the pack, and some pups are so clever that they really do try and push your buttons to get what they want.

 

5 simple rules to follow:::::::

 

Don't let the dog jump up at you: if it does, turn away and ignore it. Wait until the dog has moved away, then call it to you for a fuss, but make it sit first.

 

Don't let the dog barge through a doorway first, make it wait until you go through, then allow it to follow.

 

Don't feed the dog before you have eaten, even if you just prepare its meal, with the dog watching, then eat a biscuit yourself while the dog waits, then feed the dog.

 

Don't allow the dog to invade your space on the sofa (unless invited) and don't allow it continual access to you: get it used to being on its own from time to time, if only for a few moments to begin with.

 

And lastly, make a huge fuss of the dog every time it comes to you when you call it. Make yourself the best place to be, and don't be shy about showing it. Don't be a pillar of stone when the dog comes to you: really let it know it has done the right thing: just for a few seconds, then walk on with the dog. Dogs like to keep moving: all this sit and stay at a young age doesn't come easily to many pups, so keep training fast paced and fun.

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Or8 lads, jus got back in to the sport after a few years and got my self a first cross collie/greyhound bitch now 5mth old and is some times not responding to coming bk to heel when called of the lead never exp this we other 2 dogs had before, is this jus down to her age and any ideas on nipping it in the bud if not thanks

the mutt is experiencing its blossoming prey drive,,we all think pups are trained because they respond so early to our calls and treats,

they'll sit ,recall , whatever it is before the drive process, because they are in that social harmony with their owner,,but the pup is far from trained,

when he gets to a certain age he becomes a bit more brave or so it appears to us,,he's getting pulled by his instincts ,smells in particular are a huge one ,he suddenly wont come off smelling something as quick as he used too,

and so it get worse,, because if we dont attact his drive energy which is building up inside him to us ,he begins to figure out that everytime his prey instincts and drive kick in WE are the problem not the answer,,,he cant be round us when hes in drive ,because when he is ,we're Fing and roaring at him because his drive has caused the Deaf ear ,he's pulled in the opposite way

, what it comes down to bud is been in drive is pure heaven for a dog ,what would you rather given a choice go back on a lead or experience the ultimate high??,,

and thats the choice your putting before the mutt,,its nothing personal ,but thousands of years of instincts are calling him from you,,

i would ask anyone on here how reliable their dog is in the face of quarry ,is recall possible ,hardly,,we owners have caused this because the dog doesn't see us as a way of expressing this drive energy , but its will see a rabbit hare or fox as this ,but,,heres the thing ,he has learned to be energized by the sight of these, this energy is electric prey energy coursing through his veins, but all he wants to do is get rid of the energy and thats what makes the prey so attractive,,and thats why he chases and thats why he kills and rags because he distresses that energy through running and finally grounds the energy orally through biting ,,thats the science of it,

why does a dog jack,,because the energy produced by a certain quarry will charge the dog to a certain level ,say 10,000 volts ,,but once equivalent energy has been expended by the dog ,he no longer has that attraction to his quarry at the point,,he's drained, and its the same for every dog in every setting ,,

basically what you need to be able to do is, attract the mutts energy, thats the long and short of it, and its simple ,ball play ,tug toys all that stuff work,

because he will get charged by the sight of you with the toy and he will get to ground energy ,and thats all he wants to do,,

dogs are an energy circuit,who feel great getting to use that energy up,,thats why a dog does what he does,digging ,barking ,running its all about using up that drive energy,

its not the commonly held view on mutts ,but if you keep in mind that the dog will see you as his best buddy and always want to be with you if you help him release his energy,,

think of the mutt going apeshit because your opening the kennel or door ,he is seeing you as a way of expressing energy and hes all over you,,what i want is that same expression out in the field ,i want him see me in that way ,all the time,,

a bit long winded bud i know, but that the science of it , a lot of folk dont question the why as far as the dog is concerned ,but thats what does it for me,,

best of luck,,

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Words of wisdom Casso: but just how do we overcome that intense desire to chase a rabbit, and only do it when WE say so? How can we make ourselves even more attractive than that rabbit, hare fox?

all those prey items that you mention are very attractive to the mutt,no doubt,,and the dog is stimulated by the movement of prey,because its an instinct,,

think of it this way ,,if a dog chased a rabbit and never caught it ,when all he wants to do really is chase ,catch and sink his teeth in something,,thats basically what his drive energy causes him to do,,

now after chasing that rabbit which has caused him up be charged up,and not catching everyday,,he still stuck with a huge charge in him

,if everyday over that length of time you produce a tug item when he returns to you ,every day stuck with a huge charge ,i can guarantee you if he gets to release that charge in the item on return,,it will only take time before on seeing a bunny with no way of resolving the energy stuck in him ,he will turn to you and the tug item because he gets to throw off that charge,,

the mutt is an energy circuit ,they all have a charge to resolve in one form or another,

the protection dog releases his energy drive in the sleeve not the person think about what he's doing biting ,tugging ,its all the same principle ,,the same dog could easily turn himself to hunting no problem, because all he needs to see it as an energy release, and his drive is huge ,far greater that most runners, but he could be lamped, and hunted,because of the drive, but was he bred to hunt ,no,,it doesn't matter to the dog, its only the energy that matters,

the form of release dont matter to the dog really but as you say and rightly so ,running dog are greatly stimulated by prey items its in their genes,,but the trick is having the dog seeing you as the greatest way of releasing energy FIRST then introduce the prey,,a dog will course as hard for a ball as he will a bunny its the same drive ,the same energy release,

however if you introduce the mutt to prey first,,and then try to convince him that a ball is the same,your pissing against the wind,because he wont see the ball as the same energy release,,

its like a good bull x fox dog ,most have huge drive,,rabbits just dont do it for the real good ones,,the energy release is not there,rabbit just dont draw out enough drive energy out of him and leave him frustrated,hence highly strung dog with no valve for release can quickly turn into a problem dog ,you let any strong dog release energy into something and he'll be like a pussy cat for days later ,until his energy builts up again ,its all about grounding that drive,in every dog,

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All pups go through this - what you need to do is make it worth your pups while to be with you,

if something is more intresting than you are, then why should the pup come back to you?

 

 

My little beddy x whippet/grey went through something simler recently, shes just over a year old and has found her drive

sniffing round for sign's of bunnys was more intresting than i was, it got to the point of

she didnt want to leave the area and even though i had walked half way down the track and out of sight

she still stayed there, over the last week or so ive been taking dried liver out with me,

showing her ive got it, before the start of the walk - once out ive been sending her off

letting her have a mooch around, then calling her in and rewarding her for coming

now she quite happy to leave the area and come back to me.

 

Last night i did things differently, took a rabbit skin dummy on a rope - out with me, did a little training

and also played some chase games, made everything i did with her fun, so shes learning that its worth more being near me and coming back when i call

- on the walk back home, she left the area without a glance and half way down the track, brought me an windfall apple - so we did a few retrives with an apple.

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