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Mochastorm

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About Mochastorm

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  1. My own belief, and I am no scientist, but you would need to obtain the DNA from 250 - 500 dogs (the more the better) which you strongly believe resemble, and are ESS. Then do the same with Cockers. It would then be for a geneticist to identify the DNA strand that is peculiar to that breed. Even then I doubt that you would find a Forensic Scientist to get up in a court and say absolutely that they could identify the dog by DNA. I’m sure one could find a company to identify the DNA of mongrels, the results being for the interest of the owner. These are not for court purposes. I would question how broad the DNA database of each individual breed is, and how it is verified and policed.
  2. As I understand it, and this may well be incorrect. Before there were distinct breeds they had hunting/flushing/retrieving spaniel like dogs. They were used to ‘spring’ game (flush). The smaller ones were favoured to get into tight places and shift Woodcock and they were called ‘cockers.’ From this they started to breed from the two types thus developing two distinct breeds. This is only what I’ve been told and I have no historical, documentary or scientific evidence to prove this. So it’s only what I’ve heard from a mate which makes it a more reliable source than Wikipedia.
  3. I’m interested to know how you’ve been told that the great grandmother is an ESS. Who has provided the base DNA to say that this is a Cocker, and that this is an ESS? More importantly who has decided that this is the standard. Do the show dogs have the same DNA profile. Look at the similarities between the two show bred breeds. Both the Cockers and Springers have pendulous ears, droopy eyes, slobbery jowls and a boxy conformation. The working versions also have their own similarities. I don’t see how DNA can separate them unless you can physically obtain the DNA from a specific dog, get them on the Jeremy Kyle show and say, “Rover, you are the father.” If you have a KC pedigree you can trial your dog under KC rules.
  4. I'm watching this thread with interest but it seems to have stopped. So, same question, a decent NV set up for a .22lr being used for rabbits out to about yards which can be transferred to a PCP air rifle for rat bashing at 30 yards. The Nite Site Wolf was drawing my attention, although a bit expensive. Any advice out there from the nocturnal shooting brigade.
  5. She sounds like she's full of drive. Just keep on top of her, and don't give her an inch. Her limits should be those you impose on her. It's just control. Be thankful you haven't got a lethargic dog that needs winding up to get any hunting out of it. I assume you have her hunting a tight pattern. Cast her left, allow her to hunt, 15 feet out blow your turn whistle, allow her to come back to you, as she is almost with you then cast her right and repeat the same. If you keep her close it's not so far for you to run and grab her. I was also taught to reinforce some commands by correcting them even when they get it right. An example would be that while hunting you put a stop whistle in. Even if she stops dead with no movement, get out to her, physically put her in a sit and blow the stop again. It makes her concentrate and think, or double think. I thought when I was first advised it would cause confusion, but it doesn't, and it works.
  6. As the season goes on the dog thinks it knows more than you, and they usually do, but that's not the game. They will pull on as the season progresses, and that will happen every season that you work your dog. Its just part of the training regime, which is constant. Be consistent and strict. What is happening to you happens to most spaniel owners, including top trialling dogs. Enjoy the extra days in the wood.
  7. The season has finished. Approach whichever shoot you have been on and ask can you take your dog on for training. There should be a few birds still around, and no young birds are going down for a long time yet. Get your dog tight again. Sitting to the flush, hunting a good pattern and no chasing or running in. Aim for perfection, if it moves on a stop correct it, if it creeps on a flush, correct it. If it ignores the turn whistle, correct it. If it chases, you chase the dog down and correct it. It's a good time of year because any mistakes aren't gong to ruin a drive, and you won't have a shoot captain or gamekeeper screaming at you.
  8. The ground In the US you have larger areas to hunt and I'm sure that the breeds you mention are available from working/hunting kennels. They are not however available in any significant numbers in the UK as working types. A spaniel is better suited to a UK style of walked up/rough shooting. Typically you will be gaining permission to shoot on farms or estates where most of your hunting will be along hedges, ditches and small areas of rough ground. There's no reason that if you have a spaniel that stops to the flush it can't be used as a hawking dog. The triallers will be finishing shortly for the season and lining their bitches through the spring and summer. Just keep an eye out for the relevant adverts. On a personal note springers are better than cockers.
  9. A spaniel is meant to work just in front of you, the reason being that a bird flushes within 25 yard range of a shotgun. A pointer works at far greater distance. I've never owned a pointer but have seen good ones work with hawks. I've also seen some terrible ones in a beat line, running round going whistle deaf. If a spaniel gets awkward or goes off whistle at 20 yards you can get out and correct it. A pointer running round 150 yards away on a heather covered moor is a different prospect. You have a better chance of getting a good working spaniel, but if you really want a pointer shop around. Don't be fobbed off with anything other than proven 100% working stuff. Avoid anything that doesn't have both parents working, and I mean working, not just going out for the day and messing around like the dogs on the beat.
  10. Hard mouth can be a genetic trait, and can be created but feeding bone and flesh is not an issue.
  11. Don't put sudocrem or any ointment on it, it will just attract dust and general crap. If the saline isn't doing it then buy some Hibiscrub from the pharmacist, dilute and bathe the wounds. Hibiscrub kills bacteria found on the skin, and is what the vet would use to bathe the injury.
  12. I think that it's all been covered. Shoot what you can, even have a go at night longnetting while the rabbits are out feeding and bant them back. Regularly visit the permission to keep the landowner happy by making the right noises, but don't be tempted to ferret. Thick cover, rabbits of every size popping through nets or getting nailed below ground. It really is no fun.
  13. There is a Shooting Times video on You Tube this week by Simon Whitehead. He gives his opinion on European Polecat crosses, pointless waste of time. Many of these alleged crossbreeds are just dark polecat coloured ferrets, but if you get the genuine article what does it add. The ferret has been domesticated for hundreds or more years. They work with you as a part of your hunting team. How often do you find yourself on a dig and thrusting your hand blindly into a hole with confidence that your ferret isn't going to savage you. I wouldn't feel the same way hunting with an animal one generation removed from the wild. I have no personal experience of hunting with a first cross, although I've been offered them I was sceptical that it was the genuine article, it just behaved like a skulking poorly handled ferret, which is what it probably was. My advice, for all that it's worth is, don't go paying stupid money for either a very dark coloured ferret, or worse a nervous, vicious demon that you can never trust.
  14. If the dog is in the area where you know the bird/dummy has landed I blow the 'hunt' whistle, or direct the dog to the area, stop whistle, when the dog is looking at you for instruction blow the 'hunt' whistle. The tone I use is lower and slower than the recall whistle. It is easily trained. When a young dog is sent on a blind retrieve, as it starts to wind the dummy you see the body language change, tail wagging, nose right down searching. If you blow the hunt whistle at this point the dog will associate it with the find, retrieve and therefore the positive reward.
  15. There are no directional whistles. For a spaniel you have a stop whistle, which they should react to wherever they are in the field. A recall whistle. A turn whistle to change direction when they are hunting at close quarters and a hunt whistle when you want them to hunt the area where they are. Retrievers are the same with the exception of the turn whistle which isn't necessary as you don't hunt them at close quarters.
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