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ellir0305

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Everything posted by ellir0305

  1. Thank for the reply Phil, I think i will give it a go on a couple of traps and see how it goes.
  2. Notching the trigger sear into a night latch seems to be quite common practice by american trappers on their foothold traps. Does anyone use the method or find it helpful for fenns? It seems like a good idea that simplifies getting a repeatable sensitive set using a positive mechanical stop rather than tapping until it looks about right. Any thoughts? Rob
  3. Thanks jok, that a nice little sheath. I really like the look of the heavy thick leathers but like you say these will be harder to work in many respects and very expensive to learn on I would imagine.
  4. Have seen some fantastic leather gear on here over the years, I fancy having a go at making some stuff for myself. What is the best way to start off in terms of tools, materials and projects. I would like to make a really sturdy belt and a nice sheath. Had a look at some videos and these projects seem doable but I am aware that skilled people make things look very easy. All advice greatly appreciated. Rob
  5. I ended up getting some genuine Fenns from the trapbarn website, they only do their own 'improved trap' in the MK4 size. Must say the price for the Fenns was competitive and the service was really fast.
  6. As above really. I use Fenn and Springer MK4s in the past, only Fenn MK6's. There seems to be little difference in the power or effectiveness that i can see, but I only have 10 traps in total so I am a mere amateur and I have never seen a solway trap in the flesh. I need to get some more traps in both sizes. The solways are coming up a bit cheaper than the other two, are they as good or is it false economy? If these aren't the best option, where is the best place to buy springers or fenns to get a good deal? Thanks for you input.
  7. The fenn is a brilliant trap and properly fenced as per regs poses no greater risk than any other trap. I have used them for years and not caught a non target species just fencing with sticks, however weldmesh seems even more secure so I thought I would try belt and braces. The kittens aren't in the immediate area of the trap but cats wander. What size is the hole on the boxes you are using for these other traps?
  8. When making tunnels for fenn traps for catching rats what size do you make the hole in the fencing at the ends? I have some heavy gauge weldmesh which is 50mm between centre so roughly 45mm gap, is this appropriate? Usually use sticks but there are a few kittens in the area and I won't be very popular if i kill one. Thanks Rob
  9. i will give you £25 posted if its still available
  10. cheers for the response. i have a hw 90 as my main gun and a ratty. i have done up an old meteor for plinking and i and just doing this one up for fun really i like a bit of tinkering and gun smithing i am going to re-do the stock as another practice before i do my beretta shotgun. i know gamos are a bit pants but its more of a challenge then, i think i might have to many air rifles too ... has nobody come across these problems before?
  11. thanks a lot tegater, i have time on my side thats no trouble. it would be good to do the work myself
  12. ok much appreciated i was being hopeful i could do it on the cheap. any idea of the price?
  13. i have an old gamo magnum 3000 which has a little issue it intermittently releases in a slow ticking instead of firing, that is when you pull the trigger, the piston creeps forward and ticks as if the spring or piston is sticking. when it fires cleanly it is fine and has good power which suggested the piston seal was good. so i fully stripped the gun and polished and deburred the internals and greased as appropriate and inspected the seal, the problem has reduced but is still apparent. the spring was warped somewhat and having looked at an exploded drawing it appear the piston weight is a
  14. I have a single barrel 12g that was given to me and has certain centemental value but the hinge is sloppy and it has opened on me a couple of times only using light loads so i don't really want to fire it. i have better tools for that kind of thing. It has very little monetry value but has a lovely patina to the steel and would be nice to have as a display piece. My question is what is the average cost to get it deactivated or can i do it myself. i have access to a machine shop and welding tools etc. Thanks Rob
  15. i would third that got mine for £700 second hand but barely used cracking tool
  16. Would you take £100 for it, I'm out near langport, i could pick it up tomorrow.
  17. what is the advantage of using a really light pellet? higher velocity but less weight sure equals similar momentum? do they maintain there flight path or are they floaty like a beach ball?
  18. I have an SX3 and i am also a lefty, i have never had any problems with the safety i just can't shoot straight but that no fault of the gun. I am interested as to which shims you use in the stock to get the correct sweep to the stock. i will switch the safety over to make life easier now i know how.
  19. thats an interesting set up there micky. is the snare fixed to the fence with a fishing swivel clip? How do you get the tension or presentation with it on the swivel and not directly tied? do you find the snares last longer? Sorry for the bombardment of questions, i've got a similar situation on a permission of mine and the snare get twisted up really quick but then again it might be my shoddy snare spinning. Cheers Rob
  20. Yes there are risks involved, if it is not done correctly, but having read up quite a lot on the process of thermophillic composting and its effect on the pathogens which exist within the feces of carnivorous animals i feel happy ennough putting it on and around plants that are not directly consumed, however it is more than safe around fruit and berry tree/bushes etc'humanure handbook' is a very interesting read for anyone curious. in asian countries they have been spreading raw human waste directly on fields for millenia with very few problem as a result. not advising it mind, just on observ
  21. yeah i have thought of using other materials for the litter like leafmould or finer sawdust, has anyone done this. they probably wont absorb as much unless i dried it first but at least they would break down. i used to burn it when i first started but being quite wet (the waste not me) i found i needed a big fire or old oil to get it to burn and it stank when it did, maybe drying it then burning would be an option. i thought it would be easier to ask first before i start experimenting. bedding; straw and paper can be composted or burnt easy enough its mainly the litter and shit that is th
  22. i have been composting my ferrets waste for the last couple of year but it hasnt been breaking down as well as i'd like, the shavings that is. how does everyone else do it?? Thanks Rob
  23. there are some bronze age ramparts near me and the rangers on the site have no permission for archeological digs so sift the mole hills, they have found arrow heads, pottery, brooches and all sorts. amazing really keep you fingers crossed for that sovereign, you never know. atb rob
  24. i had a couple of those rotastak one and they were crap they either leaked or got jammed every time, not good. the 'classic' brand ones from wilkinsons are the best i've had and only £1.30 or something like that. atb Rob
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