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trenchfoot

fenn traps only half catching

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I run a few tunnel traps around the farm to keep the rat numbers at bay. The tunnels were getting well used but the rats were running up the side of the tunnel and missing the trigger plate. I then reduced the width of the tunnel in the middle to just wider than the trigger plate. This has done the trick and I am catching rats most days.

 

One thing I have found is that about 3/4 of the rats I have caught in these mk4 traps is that they are trapped around the back end only. sometimes only at the root of the tail. They are not dead in the trap and I end up finishing them off with the airpistol. I have removed half the width restrictor so that the rat has more room to get caught as the have to slalom over the trigger plate.

 

Anyone else had this problem? and any solutions would be welcome.

 

Cheers,

 

Yorkie

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set them lighter so its doesnt need the full weight of the rat to trigger the trap :thumbs:

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2 things it could be, either they are trying to jump over them or you have got the trap the wrong way round

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Set the trap put the safety on and how does the trigger plate sit ?. you might need to raise it a bit if its no a wee bit proud

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I'd tend to think they need setting lighter. Also are the traps loose enough in the tunnel to allow them to jump once they're triggered?

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some good pointers there lads. I've lifted the trigger plate on a couple so that when set on its lightest its still proud of the jaws. Also as I think that the point made about then jumping the trap may a fact that they are avoiding "stepping down"onto the plate.

 

I'd cross my fingers but they are sore from attempting to set the trap even lighter (chers Paulus! :icon_eek: ). That's cack handed yorkshire lads for Ya.

 

Cheers again

 

Yorkie

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some good pointers there lads. I've lifted the trigger plate on a couple so that when set on its lightest its still proud of the jaws. Also as I think that the point made about then jumping the trap may a fact that they are avoiding "stepping down"onto the plate.

 

I'd cross my fingers but they are sore from attempting to set the trap even lighter (chers Paulus! :icon_eek: ). That's cack handed yorkshire lads for Ya.

 

Cheers again

 

Yorkie

use a stick to tap the trigger plate untill the latch is right on the edge then lift the safety with the stick :laugh:

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some good pointers there lads. I've lifted the trigger plate on a couple so that when set on its lightest its still proud of the jaws. Also as I think that the point made about then jumping the trap may a fact that they are avoiding "stepping down"onto the plate.

 

I'd cross my fingers but they are sore from attempting to set the trap even lighter (chers Paulus! :icon_eek: ). That's cack handed yorkshire lads for Ya.

 

Cheers again

 

Yorkie

use a stick to tap the trigger plate untill the latch is right on the edge then lift the safety with the stick :laugh:

Did that with one of the lengths of garden cane I use to limit the entrance. Trap broke it and dont have any more canes. Still got nine more fingers to go! ;)

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Put a piece of wood infront of the trap and behind it so they have to jump onto the tread plate. Picture is shit but hope it helps.

 

Trap.jpg

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There's nothing wrong with the traps your using so you have to go back to basics.....you could try fitting baffles but the first thing to do is ensure your not using a tunnel that's oversized...this would allow trap avoidance and increase foul catches...,

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Put a piece of wood infront of the trap and behind it so they have to jump onto the tread plate. Picture is shit but hope it helps.

 

Trap.jpg

 

Rhodey,

 

I know that it is only a sketch but the trap is the wrong way round!! If it is set like that you will rarely catch anything at all, it is not designed to work that way. The trap should fit sideways on in the tunnel - the coil spring at one side and the thumb loop on the other

 

OTC

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Thinking about it ,it does seem that the tunnels too big a fen catches by scraping its catch off the tunnel ceiling into the trap jaws if the tunnels to high its going to make for bad catches ?. i only make my wooden tunnels a inch taller than the trap or two bricks high ?.

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Thinking about it ,it does seem that the tunnels too big a fen catches by scraping its catch off the tunnel ceiling into the trap jaws if the tunnels to high its going to make for bad catches ?. i only make my wooden tunnels a inch taller than the trap or two bricks high ?.

 

:no:

That's not the intention, and though they are designed to jump when sprung, they shouldn't be hitting the ceiling. A correctly set Fenn should be able to catch no matter how high the ceiling.

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Thinking about it ,it does seem that the tunnels too big a fen catches by scraping its catch off the tunnel ceiling into the trap jaws if the tunnels to high its going to make for bad catches ?. i only make my wooden tunnels a inch taller than the trap or two bricks high ?.

 

:no:

That's not the intention, and though they are designed to jump when sprung, they shouldn't be hitting the ceiling. A correctly set Fenn should be able to catch no matter how high the ceiling.

no they won't

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Thinking about it ,it does seem that the tunnels too big a fen catches by scraping its catch off the tunnel ceiling into the trap jaws if the tunnels to high its going to make for bad catches ?. i only make my wooden tunnels a inch taller than the trap or two bricks high ?.

 

:no:

That's not the intention, and though they are designed to jump when sprung, they shouldn't be hitting the ceiling. A correctly set Fenn should be able to catch no matter how high the ceiling.

 

The Fenn trap was designed to kill within the confines of the tunnel or hole, not to be used with free space above it. I have categoric proof of that in the form of development documents written by the inventor (amongst other things)

 

So, the Fenn does have to be set so that it can fire cleanly but no more, big holes or tunnels are no good, simple as that.

 

OTC

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