Wasps

[shropshire mole 190]

 

Had call one for wasps so far, which turned out to be honey bees. Apparently I was the 2^nd person they called - the 1^st bloke sprayed dust on them for £40 and then refused to come back when the bees were still alive.

I was perfectly honest with the lady; told her I didn’t know enough about honey bees to do a proper job and walked away (all she really wanted was another £40 dusting, which I refused to do).

 

I would like to learn how to professionally deal with bees that are pests though; removing honey comb, catching swarms, etc. Are there any courses I could go on? Books I could read?

 

Your local beekeepers association would advise. BBKA local branch.

It is very hard to remove an established nest of honey bees, destruction is the usual method.

A swarm can be collected by a beekeeper.

You have to seal the entrances following the application of Ficam D to prevent the dead nest being robbed of the honey by other honey bees which then take the Ficam D back to their hive and kills the lot. And you may get sued by the beekeeper for loss. Natural England may prosecute as well.

The last bees nest I destroyed was in a hole in a tree 15 feet up.

The tree was dead and had to be felled, so the bees had to go first.

Ficam D then returned 1.1/2 hours later to apply expanding foam.

The half life of Ficam D is not that long.

 

 

 

 

Agree with most of your points, BUT half life of Ficam D!! Depends on where it is, if its dusted in a hole then it could remain active for a long time, same as in cavity wall, Thats no real difference to storing it in its original continer as long as its dry. When I do bees, I contact the local bee keepers first, so that they can come out and then agree destruction only course of action, certainly will help if ever investigated. My local bee keepers association have my details and will now call me if they have a nest to destroy

 

I do find that bees can "be" quite difficult to kill with insecticide and more than 1 visit needed. But bottom line is "if I can not safely seal all potential holes after treatment, then walk away and sleep well at night

[nod 285]

Pretty sure it's law to proof up after treating honey bees with anything,

[shropshire mole 190]

Pretty sure it's law to proof up after treating honey bees with anything,

Not so sure its law!

Certainly NPTA/BPCA Best Practice

 

If you dont seal up all holes, and other bee hives die as a result of your actions, and the authorities find out its you - then unless your paperwork/photos are waterproof expect problems. But if you can show "due diligence" and that the bees were a danger (serious anaphalaxis etc) you probably have a fairly good defence.

 

I personally try and steer clear of bees and only deal with the simple ones eg a single hole in/out - easy to dust/fill in with expanding foam/wirewool/sealant

Edited May 18, 2015 by shropshire mole

[Mr Muddy 141]

Thanks for the replies. I’ll definitely contact the BBKA.

 

I’ve no problem with destroying them, and obviously I could just spray the dust and block up the holes. But then I’d be worried about rotting honey seeping through the interior walls or out through the window frame.

 

Would that happen?

 

Would there even be any honey this time of year?

 

I can’t help thinking there’s an awful lot of knowledge needed to do a bee job properly, and I don’t want to be just another cowboy.

[TOMO 27,604]

We transferred a honey bee colony a few year back,,,it was in the trunk of an apple tree ,,that was being removed....

 

We used cling film to seal the bees in,,,quickly took the tree down,,tout kept the trunk about 6 foot long,,,,we then put it in a pick up,,,and on to my bosses back garden,,,hole dug ,,,and trunk back upright,,,,then unwrapped the cling film

[Mr Wasp 216]

But then I’d be worried about rotting honey seeping through the interior walls or out through the window frame.[/font][/size]

 

Would that happen?

 

Would there even be any honey this time of year?

 

I can’t help thinking there’s an awful lot of knowledge needed to do a bee job properly, and I don’t want to be just another cowboy.

You got to be careful what you do when it comes to bees. We no longer get involved with them at all. Last year i came across this mess that had been treated mid summer by a pest controller, was a very large colony and he never bothered to block up afterwards. I think there are quite a few pesters out there which are un informed, or just dont care.

 

[KillPig 3]

 

 

Had call one for wasps so far, which turned out to be honey bees. Apparently I was the 2^nd person they called - the 1^st bloke sprayed dust on them for £40 and then refused to come back when the bees were still alive.

I was perfectly honest with the lady; told her I didn’t know enough about honey bees to do a proper job and walked away (all she really wanted was another £40 dusting, which I refused to do).

 

I would like to learn how to professionally deal with bees that are pests though; removing honey comb, catching swarms, etc. Are there any courses I could go on? Books I could read?

 

Your local beekeepers association would advise. BBKA local branch.

It is very hard to remove an established nest of honey bees, destruction is the usual method.

A swarm can be collected by a beekeeper.

You have to seal the entrances following the application of Ficam D to prevent the dead nest being robbed of the honey by other honey bees which then take the Ficam D back to their hive and kills the lot. And you may get sued by the beekeeper for loss. Natural England may prosecute as well.

The last bees nest I destroyed was in a hole in a tree 15 feet up.

The tree was dead and had to be felled, so the bees had to go first.

Ficam D then returned 1.1/2 hours later to apply expanding foam.

The half life of Ficam D is not that long.

 

 

 

 

Agree with most of your points, BUT half life of Ficam D!! Depends on where it is, if its dusted in a hole then it could remain active for a long time, same as in cavity wall, Thats no real difference to storing it in its original continer as long as its dry. When I do bees, I contact the local bee keepers first, so that they can come out and then agree destruction only course of action, certainly will help if ever investigated. My local bee keepers association have my details and will now call me if they have a nest to destroy

 

I do find that bees can "be" quite difficult to kill with insecticide and more than 1 visit needed. But bottom line is "if I can not safely seal all potential holes after treatment, then walk away and sleep well at night

 

 

I am a pest controller in australia and when the bee man hasnt been able to come and ive had to destroy bees nest ive always dusted with permethrin and never had to go back a second time,and our paper wasps i have always sprayed with bifenthrin EC and have killed the colony what other chemicals do you use for the bees.

[jackg 7]

Thanks for the replies. I’ll definitely contact the BBKA.

 

I’ve no problem with destroying them, and obviously I could just spray the dust and block up the holes. But then I’d be worried about rotting honey seeping through the interior walls or out through the window frame.

 

Would that happen?

 

Would there even be any honey this time of year?

 

I can’t help thinking there’s an awful lot of knowledge needed to do a bee job properly, and I don’t want to be just another cowboy.

Honey does not rot, it may ferment, sealed jars of honey have been found in Egyptian tombs.

Nectar is collected from flowers by bees and then subject to 30% evaporation by the bees fanning it with their wings and stored in comb for winter supplies, so it is there all year round, otherwise the bees starve.

I try to remove all comb.

I did a job to kill a nest of bees in a chimney flue.

There were three flues, this one was blocked off and another had a new liner fitted and then the chimney stack was pointed.

The flue with the bees was capped but the bees were coming out of ventilation holes.

The builder cut the cap with an angle grinder, brave man, and removed the capping concrete. This was January so the best time of year to do this.

I applied Ficam D and returned about an hour later to remove the comb with a standard wood saw.

The comb was three large lengths, about 18 inches long and some smaller pieces.

The builder was waiting for me to finish so he could then apply a fresh capping.

If you leave the comb it will fall down and the honey will seep through.

A previous job, again in a chimney, the honey had dripped down the flue and came through above the AGA.

I do the best I can and offer best advice prior.

 

I get work from referals from the local beekeepers. No one else wiil do it. The only idiot in the village.

 

http://www.bbka.org.uk/local/lincolnshire/bm~doc/hse-guidance---honeybee-colonies.pdf

Edited May 18, 2015 by jackg