Help On Stock Breaking

[Taz-n-Lily 62]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

keep him on the lead for now around any stock, if he even as much as looks at them give him a sharp tug on the lead and a firm NO, get him out as much as you can.

This works - don't forget to praise the dog if he goes through sheep or lambs without bothering them.

 

Mine is still learning but fine with new lambs jumping around 2 feet away from him. He's on an extendable lead at the moment but will come off that in the next few months. He's very excited by rabbits, but not sheep, but I wouldn't trust him not to chase if he was off the lead and the sheep were running.

 

Forget the shock collar - it's not necessary, except perhaps for an older dog. It takes time to stock-train a dog and your dog is only a year old. It's not a nightmare - it's part of your dog's training and you bonding with the dog.

Shock collars won't help bonding!

 

 

The dog is a year old, is big, strong and keen - he's past the sharp tug on the lead stage - extendable or not...

My dog's over two and a half years old. He's big, strong and keen too - twenty seven and a half tts and weighs over 70lbs. He's fine on an extendable lead with a sharp tug every so often - he's still learning.

 

There's no race involved in training a dog, and no prizes for being the first to have a stock-trained mutt. Lurchers are highly intelligent, sensitive beasts. If someone wants to risk ruining the in-built qualities in a dog by trying shortcuts (like with a shock collar) that's up to them.

 

I'm going at my dog's own pace - he's doing fine. No-one can generalise about what age a dog should be stock-broken at, because each lurcher mix can take different times to mature.

The deerhound X takes an age to mature - which is fine by me, because it means we have more time to learn the basics, and to reinforce commands.

 

A year-old dog is still young - hence why I maintain - no need for shock collars.

 

 

There's some shit spoken on here mind you eh????

 

Top and bottom is, if you are still needing to put a dog on an extendable lead for stock breaking reminders at two-and-a-half years old you have failed your dog and yourself big time...no ifs, no buts you have failed!!!!! And all and any lurchers should be stock broken when they are months old...no exceptions. It's one of the first things I teach mines - each and every one of them. By the sounds of it you couldn't guarantee that your dog would be safe with stock at 2-and-a-half- years old???? You've failed and you're talking shit...

 

Edited to say that your above posts could be the biggest load of shit I have ever read on THL - honestly get a f*****g cat will you...

Do you know much about deerhound X's then?

 

Do you really think that all lurchers should be stock-broken at months-old?

 

And finally, do you go through many dogs who don't meet your exacting standards?

 

Had less than a dozen dogs in 35 years - all grafted hard and none (bar my first ever when I was 16) ever given away, sold, passed on - once they are here they are here for life so don't even think about suggesting I go through lots of dogs...

 

Never had a deerhound or deerhound x but I know one thing just because it's a f*****g deerhound x doesn't exempt it from stock breaking at a young age...you really are talking shit now...showing yourself up to be really stupid with that comment...

 

And yes, the whole lot, bar none should have started the stock breaking process as soon as they are able to get out and about...no exceptions...ever...

 

And you failing to do so have in turn failed yourself and your dog...dogs look to us for leadership and you have simply failed to provide this for your dog...

 

Making a fool of yourself here....

Before you start slinging the mud, my dog is a rescue - I got him at six months. He's doing nicely thanks.

 

Deerhound X's just aren't fully-formed in the head until they start to mature - that's why you can't rush the training.

You didn't know that, so no blame attached for your "forthright" posts.

 

Tell you what? Obvious you're one of life's idiots who shouldn't have dogs...so we'll leave it at that.

 

I have also seen the original poster's dog first hand and it's not going to be easy for him to sort out. Not going to be a case of a sharp tug/extendable lead and a NO!!!

So why not just give him a hand to sort it out, like he asked for in his first post?

Edited April 13, 2013 by Taz-n-Lily

[Taz-n-Lily 62]

Never read so much shit about training dogs in my life! Six months to stock train a dog, f**k me! should be able to do it in an afternoon! ok you need to be vigilant, with constant reminders but f*****g hell! I've had 1st cross Deerhounds sit and stay at 12 weeks! And shock collars! any body that has to resort to a shock collar on a dog they have had from a pup should be ashamed of their selves! If you don't know how to train a dog you shouldn't be aloud to f*****g own one! Right now consider yourselves told off!

There really are some interesting comments on here......

 

So Jackie Drakeford, well-known working dog trainer and author, won't let her deerhound-cross dogs out in public for two years, but you sort your deerhound X's out at three months old?

Hmmmmmm.......

[BORDERSCOT 3,816]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

keep him on the lead for now around any stock, if he even as much as looks at them give him a sharp tug on the lead and a firm NO, get him out as much as you can.

This works - don't forget to praise the dog if he goes through sheep or lambs without bothering them.

 

Mine is still learning but fine with new lambs jumping around 2 feet away from him. He's on an extendable lead at the moment but will come off that in the next few months. He's very excited by rabbits, but not sheep, but I wouldn't trust him not to chase if he was off the lead and the sheep were running.

 

Forget the shock collar - it's not necessary, except perhaps for an older dog. It takes time to stock-train a dog and your dog is only a year old. It's not a nightmare - it's part of your dog's training and you bonding with the dog.

Shock collars won't help bonding!

 

 

The dog is a year old, is big, strong and keen - he's past the sharp tug on the lead stage - extendable or not...

My dog's over two and a half years old. He's big, strong and keen too - twenty seven and a half tts and weighs over 70lbs. He's fine on an extendable lead with a sharp tug every so often - he's still learning.

 

There's no race involved in training a dog, and no prizes for being the first to have a stock-trained mutt. Lurchers are highly intelligent, sensitive beasts. If someone wants to risk ruining the in-built qualities in a dog by trying shortcuts (like with a shock collar) that's up to them.

 

I'm going at my dog's own pace - he's doing fine. No-one can generalise about what age a dog should be stock-broken at, because each lurcher mix can take different times to mature.

The deerhound X takes an age to mature - which is fine by me, because it means we have more time to learn the basics, and to reinforce commands.

 

A year-old dog is still young - hence why I maintain - no need for shock collars.

 

 

There's some shit spoken on here mind you eh????

 

Top and bottom is, if you are still needing to put a dog on an extendable lead for stock breaking reminders at two-and-a-half years old you have failed your dog and yourself big time...no ifs, no buts you have failed!!!!! And all and any lurchers should be stock broken when they are months old...no exceptions. It's one of the first things I teach mines - each and every one of them. By the sounds of it you couldn't guarantee that your dog would be safe with stock at 2-and-a-half- years old???? You've failed and you're talking shit...

 

Edited to say that your above posts could be the biggest load of shit I have ever read on THL - honestly get a f*****g cat will you...

Do you know much about deerhound X's then?

 

Do you really think that all lurchers should be stock-broken at months-old?

 

And finally, do you go through many dogs who don't meet your exacting standards?

 

Had less than a dozen dogs in 35 years - all grafted hard and none (bar my first ever when I was 16) ever given away, sold, passed on - once they are here they are here for life so don't even think about suggesting I go through lots of dogs...

 

Never had a deerhound or deerhound x but I know one thing just because it's a f*****g deerhound x doesn't exempt it from stock breaking at a young age...you really are talking shit now...showing yourself up to be really stupid with that comment...

 

And yes, the whole lot, bar none should have started the stock breaking process as soon as they are able to get out and about...no exceptions...ever...

 

And you failing to do so have in turn failed yourself and your dog...dogs look to us for leadership and you have simply failed to provide this for your dog...

 

Making a fool of yourself here....

Before you start slinging the mud, my dog is a rescue - I got him at six months. He's doing nicely thanks.

 

Deerhound X's just aren't fully-formed in the head until they start to mature - that's why you can't rush the training.

You didn't know that, so no blame attached for your "forthright" posts.

 

Tell you what? Obvious you're one of life's idiots who shouldn't have dogs...so we'll leave it at that.

 

I have also seen the original poster's dog first hand and it's not going to be easy for him to sort out. Not going to be a case of a sharp tug/extendable lead and a NO!!!

So why not just give him a hand to sort it out, like he asked for in his first post?

 

Your assumption that I haven't helped Robert is seriously wide of the mark - I know Robert personally and he is a lovely lad...and I will continue to help him...just PM'd you the rest.......no one on this thread has agreed with your crap...you shoulda at least had the decency to keep a low profile...

[romany52 313]

 

Never read so much shit about training dogs in my life! Six months to stock train a dog, f**k me! should be able to do it in an afternoon! ok you need to be vigilant, with constant reminders but f*****g hell! I've had 1st cross Deerhounds sit and stay at 12 weeks! And shock collars! any body that has to resort to a shock collar on a dog they have had from a pup should be ashamed of their selves! If you don't know how to train a dog you shouldn't be aloud to f*****g own one! Right now consider yourselves told off!

There really are some interesting comments on here......

 

So Jackie Drakeford, well-known working dog trainer and author, won't let her deerhound-cross dogs out in public for two years, but you sort your deerhound X's out at three months old?

Hmmmmmm.......

Get back to your books mate! I'm a bit too long in the tooth to be dealing with idiots! And bye the way I've trained gun dogs and lurchers, I once trained a lurcher , just to see if it could be done, to lamp at heel without a slip, remain at heel while other dogs ran, not run a rabbit until told to and brake off the course if given the command, so you can piss off with your Jackie Drakeford ! Just because I might have the knowledge to write a book does not mean I have the desire!

Edited April 13, 2013 by romany52

[BORDERSCOT 3,816]

 

Never read so much shit about training dogs in my life! Six months to stock train a dog, f**k me! should be able to do it in an afternoon! ok you need to be vigilant, with constant reminders but f*****g hell! I've had 1st cross Deerhounds sit and stay at 12 weeks! And shock collars! any body that has to resort to a shock collar on a dog they have had from a pup should be ashamed of their selves! If you don't know how to train a dog you shouldn't be aloud to f*****g own one! Right now consider yourselves told off!

There really are some interesting comments on here......

 

So Jackie Drakeford, well-known working dog trainer and author, won't let her deerhound-cross dogs out in public for two years, but you sort your deerhound X's out at three months old?

Hmmmmmm.......

 

It's a fact that you have made a fool of yourself but now you are running the risk of becoming a pest and therefore someone who is never taken seriously on here...and only ever ridiculed...Jackie Drakeford???? I stand by my posts 100%...

 

Also stand by my assertion that you are making a fool of yourself... Take care - Colin...

[pernod 466]

Stock training is relatively easy in paddocks and small fields, its just a matter of reinforcing the commands. its a different ballgame when up on the moors and a single sheep 'bolts' out of cover. i have seen well stock broken dogs treat them a wee bit 'differently'.

Robert if your pup isnt mauling them, but just chasing them, take it somewhere full of sheep and as the other posters have said, punnish where neccessary, even the dumbest of diogs will soon get the message.

 

I hope all turns out well for you, keep at it.

 

 

Yours in sport Pernod

[romany52 313]

Stock training is relatively easy in paddocks and small fields, its just a matter of reinforcing the commands. its a different ballgame when up on the moors and a single sheep 'bolts' out of cover. i have seen well stock broken dogs treat them a wee bit 'differently'.

Robert if your pup isnt mauling them, but just chasing them, take it somewhere full of sheep and as the other posters have said, punnish where neccessary, even the dumbest of diogs will soon get the message.

 

I hope all turns out well for you, keep at it.

 

 

Yours in sport Pernod

I live in the mountains mate and your right about the bolters, but when training they're the ones you have to seek out.

[nothernlite 18,030]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

keep him on the lead for now around any stock, if he even as much as looks at them give him a sharp tug on the lead and a firm NO, get him out as much as you can.

This works - don't forget to praise the dog if he goes through sheep or lambs without bothering them.

 

Mine is still learning but fine with new lambs jumping around 2 feet away from him. He's on an extendable lead at the moment but will come off that in the next few months. He's very excited by rabbits, but not sheep, but I wouldn't trust him not to chase if he was off the lead and the sheep were running.

 

Forget the shock collar - it's not necessary, except perhaps for an older dog. It takes time to stock-train a dog and your dog is only a year old. It's not a nightmare - it's part of your dog's training and you bonding with the dog.

Shock collars won't help bonding!

 

 

The dog is a year old, is big, strong and keen - he's past the sharp tug on the lead stage - extendable or not...

My dog's over two and a half years old. He's big, strong and keen too - twenty seven and a half tts and weighs over 70lbs. He's fine on an extendable lead with a sharp tug every so often - he's still learning.

 

There's no race involved in training a dog, and no prizes for being the first to have a stock-trained mutt. Lurchers are highly intelligent, sensitive beasts. If someone wants to risk ruining the in-built qualities in a dog by trying shortcuts (like with a shock collar) that's up to them.

 

I'm going at my dog's own pace - he's doing fine. No-one can generalise about what age a dog should be stock-broken at, because each lurcher mix can take different times to mature.

The deerhound X takes an age to mature - which is fine by me, because it means we have more time to learn the basics, and to reinforce commands.

 

A year-old dog is still young - hence why I maintain - no need for shock collars.

 

 

There's some shit spoken on here mind you eh????

 

Top and bottom is, if you are still needing to put a dog on an extendable lead for stock breaking reminders at two-and-a-half years old you have failed your dog and yourself big time...no ifs, no buts you have failed!!!!! And all and any lurchers should be stock broken when they are months old...no exceptions. It's one of the first things I teach mines - each and every one of them. By the sounds of it you couldn't guarantee that your dog would be safe with stock at 2-and-a-half- years old???? You've failed and you're talking shit...

 

Edited to say that your above posts could be the biggest load of shit I have ever read on THL - honestly get a f*****g cat will you...

Do you know much about deerhound X's then?

 

Do you really think that all lurchers should be stock-broken at months-old?

 

And finally, do you go through many dogs who don't meet your exacting standards?

 

Had less than a dozen dogs in 35 years - all grafted hard and none (bar my first ever when I was 16) ever given away, sold, passed on - once they are here they are here for life so don't even think about suggesting I go through lots of dogs...

 

Never had a deerhound or deerhound x but I know one thing just because it's a f*****g deerhound x doesn't exempt it from stock breaking at a young age...you really are talking shit now...showing yourself up to be really stupid with that comment...

 

And yes, the whole lot, bar none should have started the stock breaking process as soon as they are able to get out and about...no exceptions...ever...

 

And you failing to do so have in turn failed yourself and your dog...dogs look to us for leadership and you have simply failed to provide this for your dog...

 

Making a fool of yourself here....

Before you start slinging the mud, my dog is a rescue - I got him at six months. He's doing nicely thanks.

 

Deerhound X's just aren't fully-formed in the head until they start to mature - that's why you can't rush the training.

You didn't know that, so no blame attached for your "forthright" posts.

 

Tell you what? Obvious you're one of life's idiots who shouldn't have dogs...so we'll leave it at that.

 

I have also seen the original poster's dog first hand and it's not going to be easy for him to sort out. Not going to be a case of a sharp tug/extendable lead and a NO!!!

So why not just give him a hand to sort it out, like he asked for in his first post?

ive helped robert out also had the dog in amongst sheep he is a big dog full of carry on the boy works away from home 2 weeks a month which doesnt help him He knows himself should of done more when the dog was younger as borderscot says you are being silly now

[Qbgrey 3,991]

a shock collar works on the basis that the dog does nt know its the owner giving the shock,the dog knows he can get a shock while being out of range,ie not on a lead,smacking a dog is obvious it come from the owner so may well behave ok on lead but not when off it.....id rather give a few shocks than have the farmer on my case.......taz nlily do u lamp your dogs ? working lurcers need to be up to speed on this asap,its ok walking a footpath wit a dog and it not looking at sheep,the prob is at night when they are all fired up and over exited and out of the beam.,.......id rather have to shock a dog than it get shot at night by the farmer.............and no ive never needed to use one before u ask

[BORDERSCOT 3,816]

Robert is an extremely nice lad. With some help he'll get the dog sorted out. He is a nice dog and will do well for Robert...

[keeganrees 196]

as ive said before on here my dog was fine from when i had it 12 weeks up untill 8 months with sheep never batted an eyelid didn go near them so assumed she was fine

how wrong was i

 

then one day took after them more herded them than anything gave here a absolute bollocking

a week went by fine around them then bang done it again same result a bollocking

 

so i turned to collar as my last resort and it worked only 2 shocks was every used and she has been great ever since

 

this was first lurcher and i learnt the hard way .. annd she seen them at least 5/7 days a week growing

i do not condon using a collar but if it is the last resort that could sort your dog its worth a try

[beast 1,884]

bottom line is,collars do work, BUT you need to get the timing spot-on (and i mean spot-on) or you will create a host of other problems with recall etc and also with the dog associating you with the shock. i never have needed one with any of my dogs but i've watched a couple of skilled trainers demonstrating with "problem" dogs and also a couple of morons getting it wrong.........

 

for me, i get the pups out with stock as soon as they are jabbed, let them off the lead round sheep as tiny puppies and any interest i chuck a handful of little pebbles at them. not to hurt, just alarm them a bit. as they get a bigger and their drive starts to kick in i like to throw a ball and stuff while sheep are about to get the dog in some state of excitement but still under control. the idea someone said earlier of hunting a few rabbits whilst sheep are about isn't high on my list for an unbroken dog; get it up into full prey drive and it misses a bunny, then where does it look? oh yeah, theres those sheep that i enjoy chasing.......

 

if you get a dog which is a bit hard-core about livestock, tie a bicycle inner tube to his collar as a shock absorber (dont want to damage him!) then a 50 yard length of good strong but light cord. KEEP THE CORD LOOSE< DONT LET HIM PULL ON IT. to do this you need to call him before he reaches the end of the rope, then praise when he comes back. its how i train recall in difficult dogs, and works when they are amongst livestock. the second the dog commits to chasing sheep, get a good grip and RUN IN THE OTHERDIRECTION. when the dog comes to the end of the rope, he normally comes to the nd of his disobedience too!!! dont say a word, but as soon as he stops then call him to you and praise.

 

yes some dogs learn the difference to when they are on the lead or not, so simply let him drag the rope behind him. then a shorter bit of rope and a shortwer bit, till in the end he just has a foot or so hanging off the collar as a reminder. after this stage he should be broke well and truly!!

 

like i say, start as a pup and you wont need any of this shit. and if you arent prepared to put the work into a puppy then why the hell have you got it? stick to goldfish.

[BORDERSCOT 3,816]

 

 

 

keep him on the lead for now around any stock, if he even as much as looks at them give him a sharp tug on the lead and a firm NO, get him out as much as you can.

This works - don't forget to praise the dog if he goes through sheep or lambs without bothering them.

 

Mine is still learning but fine with new lambs jumping around 2 feet away from him. He's on an extendable lead at the moment but will come off that in the next few months. He's very excited by rabbits, but not sheep, but I wouldn't trust him not to chase if he was off the lead and the sheep were running.

 

Forget the shock collar - it's not necessary, except perhaps for an older dog. It takes time to stock-train a dog and your dog is only a year old. It's not a nightmare - it's part of your dog's training and you bonding with the dog.

Shock collars won't help bonding!

 

 

The dog is a year old, is big, strong and keen - he's past the sharp tug on the lead stage - extendable or not...

My dog's over two and a half years old. He's big, strong and keen too - twenty seven and a half tts and weighs over 70lbs. He's fine on an extendable lead with a sharp tug every so often - he's still learning.

 

There's no race involved in training a dog, and no prizes for being the first to have a stock-trained mutt. Lurchers are highly intelligent, sensitive beasts. If someone wants to risk ruining the in-built qualities in a dog by trying shortcuts (like with a shock collar) that's up to them.

 

I'm going at my dog's own pace - he's doing fine. No-one can generalise about what age a dog should be stock-broken at, because each lurcher mix can take different times to mature.

The deerhound X takes an age to mature - which is fine by me, because it means we have more time to learn the basics, and to reinforce commands.

 

A year-old dog is still young - hence why I maintain - no need for shock collars.

 

 

bottom line is,collars do work, BUT you need to get the timing spot-on (and i mean spot-on) or you will create a host of other problems with recall etc and also with the dog associating you with the shock. i never have needed one with any of my dogs but i've watched a couple of skilled trainers demonstrating with "problem" dogs and also a couple of morons getting it wrong.........

 

for me, i get the pups out with stock as soon as they are jabbed, let them off the lead round sheep as tiny puppies and any interest i chuck a handful of little pebbles at them. not to hurt, just alarm them a bit. as they get a bigger and their drive starts to kick in i like to throw a ball and stuff while sheep are about to get the dog in some state of excitement but still under control. the idea someone said earlier of hunting a few rabbits whilst sheep are about isn't high on my list for an unbroken dog; get it up into full prey drive and it misses a bunny, then where does it look? oh yeah, theres those sheep that i enjoy chasing.......

 

if you get a dog which is a bit hard-core about livestock, tie a bicycle inner tube to his collar as a shock absorber (dont want to damage him!) then a 50 yard length of good strong but light cord. KEEP THE CORD LOOSE< DONT LET HIM PULL ON IT. to do this you need to call him before he reaches the end of the rope, then praise when he comes back. its how i train recall in difficult dogs, and works when they are amongst livestock. the second the dog commits to chasing sheep, get a good grip and RUN IN THE OTHERDIRECTION. when the dog comes to the end of the rope, he normally comes to the nd of his disobedience too!!! dont say a word, but as soon as he stops then call him to you and praise.

 

yes some dogs learn the difference to when they are on the lead or not, so simply let him drag the rope behind him. then a shorter bit of rope and a shortwer bit, till in the end he just has a foot or so hanging off the collar as a reminder. after this stage he should be broke well and truly!!

 

like i say, start as a pup and you wont need any of this shit. and if you arent prepared to put the work into a puppy then why the hell have you got it? stick to goldfish.

 

Unless it's a deerhound/deerhound x and then it's acceptable to wait til it's 2.5 years old to get to the extendable lead stage.....

[beast 1,884]

extendable leads are crap, they encourage a dog to pull.

[BORDERSCOT 3,816]

extendable leads are crap, they encourage a dog to pull.

 

Never used one mate - never had the need...dogs - irrespective of their makeup should be stock broken as soon as they can get out and about...no ifs, buts or excuses...and having a 2.5 year old deerhound x that isn't stock broken is laughable and to make excuses for it is bordering on the ridiculous...