New rifle advice

[IRHunger 0]

Got a new rifle recently and was recieving some advice on an earlier thread which is gone now, but perhaps someone could shed some light.

 

What does 'putting a tin through it' mean?

 

Should you store your rifle in a case when not being used or only when being trasported? (something to do with moisture or somthing?)

 

Do rifles need to be 'broken in' for want of a better term?

 

Gun oil? for what? the barrel or the stock? both?

 

Any advice for a newb appreciated.

[Sweeney-Todd 208]

Hiya Maz.

 

PM incomming mate

 

 

Bill.

[davyt63 1,845]

Got a new rifle recently and was recieving some advice on an earlier thread which is gone now, but perhaps someone could shed some light.

 

What does 'putting a tin through it' mean?

 

Should you store your rifle in a case when not being used or only when being trasported? (something to do with moisture or somthing?)

 

Do rifles need to be 'broken in' for want of a better term?

 

Gun oil? for what? the barrel or the stock? both?

 

Any advice for a newb appreciated.

 

hi IR

What does 'putting a tin through it' mean?/

 

it means using a whole tin of pellets through the barrel to settle in and line it with lead

 

Do rifles need to be 'broken in' for want of a better term?

 

the answer is above

 

Should you store your rifle in a case when not being used or only when being trasported?

 

 

yes you should keep it in its case,when not in use and always in a public place with out it being loaded

 

 

Gun oil? for what? the barrel or the stock? both?

 

for both buddy each time you use your rifle,give it a wipe over with a cloth with some oil on it,if ya leave finger prints on it then this will attract moister and turn to rust

so a good wipe before and after use every time

 

hope this helps buddy

 

regards

 

davy

[hunter1989 91]

im with davy spot on with every question.

 

also i clean the inside of the barrel after ive shot 500 pellets thought buddy,

 

atb hunter

[jackinbox99 41]

Davy has it spot on. New guns tend to perform better after a bit of running in with a load of pellets through them. Always keep the barrel & metal work clean and oiled to stop surface rust.

 

Depending on what your case is like you might prefer a gunbag or something to keep it in. I keep mine in a gunbag out of the way at home, and when transporting it, its in the same gunbag in the boot of the car. Unless im on my permission, then its on the passenger seat with my roof down ready for quick action!

[Phantom 631]

Hi again Maz,

 

 

Yeah as above, but I have only ever cleaned the inside of my barrels if accuracy starts to fail on a consistent basis, for example 99.9 times out of 100 I shoot paper before beginning on the live stuff (when I've gone straight in on live quarry I've missed by a mile )

 

This makes sure that my combo is zeroed correctly and it gets my trigger finger, breathing and eyes all talking the same language so to speak.

If I find the three don't want to communicate effectively I give up and go home before risking a wounded animal.

Basically it means I'm shooting crap that day (if my groups are larger than a 10pence coin).

If I then go out the next day and find the same happens, then I'm asking is it me, the gun, or my pellets?

 

So then I'll come home strip the gun and pull a rag or tissue through the barrel.

I then have found that its either to do with the barrel being grubby or more likely its something stupid like a loose screw and I'm NOT talking about the ones in my head.

 

So clean your barrel as and when you notice a drop in accuracy or some people prefere do it when changing pellets.

I've had about 7 or 8 thousand pellets down my barrel now since its last clean and the grouping is still smaller than a 5 pence piece at 35 yards from the pod with my baby (a lot bigger with my Beast - springer).

 

All the best

 

Phantom

[matt_hooks 188]

The only thing I'd disagree with is storing your rifle in it's slip, especially if you've been out and put a damp gun back in there.

 

When you get home, get it out and put the slip somewhere warm to dry. Wipe the woodwork and barrel down with an absorbent cloth, and then a very lightly oiled rag over the metalwork.

 

If your stock is bare wood you can give it a drink of stock oil, but make sure you don't get gun oil on the stock. If it's varnished then there's not much to be done with it except make sure it's dry.

 

For storing, I have a cabinet, but that's mainly for FAC, but I put my air rifles in there too. If not then they are stored locked in the cupboard next to the cabinet.

[davyt63 1,845]

Davy has it spot on. New guns tend to perform better after a bit of running in with a load of pellets through them. Always keep the barrel & metal work clean and oiled to stop surface rust.

 

Depending on what your case is like you might prefer a gunbag or something to keep it in. I keep mine in a gunbag out of the way at home, and when transporting it, its in the same gunbag in the boot of the car. Unless im on my permission, then its on the passenger seat with my roof down ready for quick action!

 

 

hi jack

a word of advise!!!

do not carry ya rifle in the boot of ya car! unless it is really well padded

reason for this is it will knock your zero out a mile! if ya hit a pot hole!

 

for instance travel to permission a quick zero great! travel home,back out next time its all over this in time will be very frustrating! and will drive ya mad

 

so make sure its on the back seat,with a belt around it

 

a friend of mine could not understand why he kept loosing zero Evey time he went out!

and we are not talking a couple of clicks here!

 

i asked him where dose he keep his rifle when going to and from permission he said in the boot! i said there is ya problem

 

since then he has it on the back seat and it has not lost its zero

 

so there ya go lads just beware before it drives ya :crazy:

 

clunk click will save ya clicks!!!!!!

 

regards

 

davy

[gurtwurz 793]

as above mate, keep her clean and well lubed(like a good woman) and only sort the insides when you have to(again, like a woman... )

all the best, wurz

[andyfr1968 772]

Hi, IRH.

 

Lots of good advice from the lads.

 

The only thing I'd say is maybe it's not best to store your gun long term in it's bag. It only takes a little moisture trapped in there to promote rust, so maybe it's best to let the air get to it. ALWAYS keep it in a bag when transporting your gun from place to place though.

 

I've shot with airguns for 30ish years and have never cleaned a barrel....

 

That said, I use Barracudas that are made from lead and Dynamics that are made from tin and when I change from one to the other, the first 20 or so shots are all over the place before it settles down. I've not had that problem when useing different types of lead pellets though.... so it must be something to do with 'conditioning' the barrel. Needs to be clean for the tin slugs and coated with lead for lead ones.

 

Good luck with it, mate and happy hunting.

 

Cheers.

Edited August 11, 2010 by andyfr1968

[IRHunger 0]

Much appreciated, lots to consider.

 

Phantom, you say you strip your rifle.

 

Is this eventually something I'll have to give a go, because it seems a bit daunting opening up a rifle?

[Phantom 631]

Much appreciated, lots to consider.

 

Phantom, you say you strip your rifle.

 

Is this eventually something I'll have to give a go, because it seems a bit daunting opening up a rifle?

 

Although I have stripped springer befor and refurbished them, springers I dont strip that often (if ever)

 

My baby that you see in my avatar, is the one that I strip.

I don't go into the complete strip; I just loosen the allen screws to remove the barrel to wipe down or clean, sometimes I remove the wood and the air cylinder and give the whole thing a wipe over with an oily rag. Then put it back together, making sure it all nice and tight and nothing that should stay still moves.

Thats it really, takes about 5 minutes.

But a PCP is a totally different beast to a springer. PCP's tend to be very "Modular" if thats the correct term for it. Air cylinder is one module, reciever, trigger, valves, hammer etc .. in the block module, barrel and silencer another module then the stock module.

 

The springer has 3 modules, barrel and breach, Action (where everything is inside and you need to know what your doing to strip these) and the stock.

To strip the action on a springer takes a lot more than five minutes and requires spring compressors and other tools.

Luckily you will probably never need to do it, unless you wish to tune it for less recoil, noise ect..

 

All the best

 

Phantom