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sako

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Everything posted by sako

  1. Cheers Phantom, guess I don't need a tissue because the amount of air that blew in my face would have moved a bath towel so something ain't right....
  2. What's the tissue trick? I've got an air ranger, it's fired less pellets than I shoot foxes in a year and that piece of crap blew air at my face today so Im guessing that probe seal O ring's gone. What's the best river to remedy the money pit???
  3. You won't got wrong with that battery pack either. Light as a feather and will last you much longer than you need for a good night's lamping. Expensive but I'd never go back to lead acid batteries...
  4. I've never needed to rezero when attaching a cam but if you are in doubt you need to check your scope in the day then slip the camcorder on the back and check you still have the same poi. Some camcorder's are heavy and could quite easily affect the poi so just check for piece of mind. Don't forget shooting with nv it's very difficult to judge distance especially when looking through the cam because it's giving more magnification than just your scope on that mag. Get out during the day and pop a few paper targets so you know exactly how your gun performs with and without the cam at different d
  5. The best IR illuminator is debatable for individuals with different needs or purposes with it. If it's only going to be used with a camcorder you need more powerful IR illuminators like as you suggest the N1000 or the Nite Hunter 300. In my experience for greatest distance with a camcorder the 300 wins hands down but as Boomster states the N1000 will do all you need for airgun ranges. If you may go down the nv route in the future like an add on etc then at the moment the N1000 would be the best choice as you can get variable power with the N1000ap which works well for close or long range b
  6. Do you need tips on setting the cam on the scope or laser? As for setting the cam on the scope I use the cam on auto focus to get a clear pic of the cross hairs and then knock the auto focus off and onto manual. Depending on the distance of the cam from the scope you will need to zoom in the mag of the camera to fill the screen(my cam's on about 5x). Once you've got a clear pic of the cross hairs use your scope for mag and parrallax for clarity but I don't really need to touch my parrallax. As for the laser if you are testing the cam off the scope with the laser you need to zoom out to
  7. That was a bit harsh mate. The clip was done on a 1/8 chip camera so no where near as good as you are talking about in a sony pc9e camera with a 1/4 chip sensor (i since have a 1/4 chip camera myself). For the camera and chip i was using it does the IR300 lots of justice and it was based around air rifle hunters who dont shoot past 50 metres, so if i could of seen rabbits at 70 yards at 30 to 50 yards shooting with a air rifle was good. Here is a clip with the new 1/4 chip sensor, yet again for air rifle hunters. Hope it does it justice. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=ji921AYr
  8. Yip, I've got the z6i 5-30x50. I actually went to the shop to buy the ziess but to my eyes prefered the swarovski and it was lighter. I liked it so much using it at dusk and on the lamp I went and bought a z6 3-18x50 for another rifle for hunting I love them... I know of others who done the same by comparing side by side and prefer the zeiss, they are both great scopes just see what suits 'you'. You won't be dissapointed with either, but I don't know how much more light the bigger objectives on the ziess would let in, in comparrisson. If you dial in shot's I believe the ziess is a better s
  9. Exactly that's why I said above gen1/camcorder's etc 'until' a dimmer is available but it will 'work' with anything in answer to the question of only working with digital but isn't recomended for gen 2 and above.
  10. No mate that's wrong it will work with anything even gen3. It works well with digital because it needs so much IR. I'd say if it's for camcorder/digital, gen1 nv then go for a 300mw but gen2 and above stick to variable power until a dimmer is available as it's to bright...
  11. All I'll say is that there are illuminators out there that 'claim' to be high powered. This is definitely high powered, I've got a n1000 which serves all purposes but with a camcorder the 300mw gives a far better/brighter pic at distance. Can't tell you how it would perform with gen 1 but would imagine it would be good as it needs a lot of IR. With gen2+ the 300mw laser is to bright for close range.
  12. Depends what you want it for and are you looking for scope mounted or handheld? You won't get much better than the 170 in all honesty. Once you address the wiring issues it should be right for years but for hand held long distance foxing I prefer a blitz but you need a lampman.
  13. If it's grouping well as you say just low, as has been said remove the scope and put between 1-3 pieces of film negative in the bottom half of the rear mount to rise the back of the scope. That's your problem, I had exactly the same problem with also a friends but was only 8 inches low... Oooops just re read ops thread it states "ive tried clickingup to the maximum but still the same then took it all way down and still nothing" Scopes kaput if the poi isn't moving when adjusting the height turret from one extreme to the other with no poi shift.
  14. Yes I've got one, Great value for money, extremely well built and bright as fwook. If you are using digital nv like a camcorder they are superb, nice and wide beam close up and tighten up nice for distance shooting. That vid doesn't do it justice for distance, at 100yrds with something like a sony pc9e on a scope it's like daylight. They are brighter than a N1000.
  15. Yep you are right about the H, my method was H for higher and by the process of ellimination I could work out which was down
  16. With a camcorder you need loads of IR light, if you only want to shoot airgun ranges a lamp and IR filter will suffice. Don't buy an LED torch with IR filter as they don't work like a halogen lamp. A deben max with IR filter will allow you to shoot clearly at 60yrds and possibly more but if you want maximum distance the N1000 laser is about the best it's going to get. If you've already got a lamp just buy an IR filter. If you haven't got a lamp then get a N1000 as it will cost less than a decent lamp,battery and IR filter and also you've got no trailing wires. The best light I fou
  17. Depends what you mean visable, you can't see any beam on either but depending on the frequency of the IR illuminator you can see a red glow from the light source. The higher the nanometer(nm) the less red glow.
  18. Think you'll be ok for the dry bit, lets hope it is overcast for you as the last time I was out that moon looked pretty big and shiny.
  19. Debatable, depends on cam,scope and IR illumination. Camcorders need loads of IR, the N1000 is about the best but you need it screwed real tight to get the distance. If it's for rabbits go for it, foxes.....hmmmmm I reckon you'd shoot more with a lamp but distance wise realisticly 100yrds but with the right kit it's possible to get out twice that. They are good fun to film with but for serious fox control get yourself a decent nv add on.
  20. From what I gather it is possible to shoot at that distance if you fit a doubler but you can get poi issues if the doubler moves especially on the larger cal CF. Loads seem happy with them if you like digital but personally I'd prefer a tubed nv unit with a adjustable mag dayscope but I've never owned a 550 to compare (I don't want to either). Then there's no parrallax problems or poi shift or anything else stopping you shooting beyond 200yrds if the need arose.
  21. I haven't used either but for add on I'd go for the variable mag ags. It's always nice to zoom in that little bit further if need be and even if you've got a spotter it's handy to zoom out for a better field of view for target aquisition if it's moved from where you spotted it. Some say the pulsar is useable on 12x mag maybe more so I wouldn't go for the fixed 8x mag but I have heard the nighteater range is decent with nv but for me it has to be a variable scope for add on. Also I think for shorter ranges it's important to have side parallax with the challenger but personally I never touch min
  22. having a go himself dear game isnt it if he gets it wrong. and will have to have the right gear to do it with. its not a hammer and screwdriver job That's a shame Im pretty useful with a chainsaw and a sledge... I wouldn't dream of it myself but the costs of custom jobs are frightening so does sound tempting!
  23. My problem is I don't reload so it's gotta be factory ammo. With the factory 32gr's it's more than accurate enough and although I haven't had a problem with stopping power I'd like to shoot 40gr's. My only concern is barrel legnth at the moment like you mine's a 26 inch fluted varmint barrel but Im thinking of going to 22inch on the custom but don't know how much difference it will make.
  24. Im thinking of going for a 1 in 10, I was told all this months back when I went for my first .204. I absolutely love the calibre it's deadly accurate and I've only had one fox not drop on the spot. My factory .204 with the 1 in 12 doesn't stabilise the 40gr's at all like I'd hoped but the 32gr's are spot on. Im now looking for a second .204 with a faster twist but Im hoping to get away with a couple of inches less in barrel legnth and still stabilize 40gr's.
  25. Thanks for that, more time required for research by the look of things....
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