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kinderbeano

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About kinderbeano

  • Rank
    Born Hunter
  • Birthday 17/05/1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    kilkenny,IRELAND
  • Interests
    Currently being trained by a brittany spaniel.

    Ferreting.
    Rough shooting.
    Fly fishing (salmon and trout)
    Fly tying.
    photography.
  1. Thanks Casso. Yeah that's what I've made too and it works a treat. I think you're right, everyone has there own views and ways of doing things. Slowing down the training and staying consistent is what I will focus on for now. I've not pushed the dog hard or hunted him, he's just flushed a few birds while out for walks really and his chasing them had me a little worried. From what I've gathered from the comments it's not something to worry about in a 6 month old pup as its too advanced for him and too early to introduce game. Out of interest does anyone here use bird throwers or dizzied pigeons to train older pointer pups? If so, what kind of drills do you use?
  2. Thanks for the advise lads. As I've said above this is my 'first' ever gun dog so I'm trying not to mess it up. I'm going to take a step back and focus 100% on the basics. I've started using a 30ft check chord when bringing him for a walk so I can keep control and help get his attention for recall/stop whistle etc. I feel like I need to take him out because he needs exercise too but don't want to let him hunt yet. I'll keep training to the back yard for now and just take things slower. It's easy to get excited with the first dog and try do too much. Think I need to train myself as much as the dog and tone things down a bit.
  3. I've just bought my first gun dog this year and was asking myself similar questions. Our club always shoots over springers as we work a lot of heavy cover but I wanted a dog that was a little steadier and that could make a good family dog too. I went with a Brittany spaniel and so far I am delighted with the breed. Small enough to work cover, loves to please you, easily trained and very versitile. Now I have no experience with driven shoots but I can imagine if you train them to be nice and steady they should be fine. That's just my experience but it might give you some food for thought. I'm sure you'll be delighted with whatever breed you decide on. Good luck.
  4. So I am looking for some help in how to stop my Brittany spaniel chasing flushed birds. He's only 6 months old and is going well with sit, stay, heel, marked retrieves and beginning stop whistle work. He has pointed some pheasants while out walking and I tried him on dizzied pigeons a couple of times too. Every time he chases several hundred yards. I want to stop this behaviour before it becomes an issue. Now I'm new to gun dog training so I've been reading a lot, and I think there seems to be two schools of though on how to stop the dog chasing. 1. Let the dog chase everything until he learns he can't catch birds. 2. Train him to stop to flush. Now I'm more keen on training stop to flush but all I can find is American articles that use e collars, check cords, throwers and every gadget imaginable. I'm just a bit lost as to what to do. Can anyone give me any tips on what has worked for them or what I might do? As I've said this is my first gun dog and I'm really keen not to f**k him up. Thanks lads and ladies.
  5. Just wondering if anyone else has used decoys and/or callers on flight ponds? Ive used them a good few times and I find the ducks are much more confident coming in and ive even shot at a group and had them swing around a second time when i gave the caller a blast. I cant find much info on it so just wondering if many guys have tried it or find it works for them?
  6. Thats great lads thanks very much. Ive heard mixed stories about people having problems with partridge wandering off. Some seem to never have an issue and some people cant get them to stop fecking off atall. Our ground is pretty quiet so i dont think there will be any disturbance problems, theres also no main road near by. Obviously good returns are what were aiming for but really for our small shoot of 6 people were just hoping for another species on the game list and something interesting to flush every now and again. We really only have one plot of land about 2 acres where we can build a pen. Its basically a small grass field in the middle of our ground. Was going to plant it up with strips of cover crop and the like. The pen would have to be built here. We also have pheasant feeders around our ground but im thinking we might need to build new feeders closer to the ground so the partridge could reach the springs?? On this particular bit of ground we dont actually have a pheasant pen, we just release caught up birds every year and hope the feeders will keep them around (which they seem to do). So if i were to get poults 10 - 14 weeks old, how long before i start releasing? and what time of year is best, right at the start of the season or some time before? I have also heard mention of people over wintering there birds but im not sure what the advantage of that would be.
  7. Looking for some advice on raising and releasing red legged partridge. Our gun club (which is all rough walked up shooting) wants to have a go at releasing partridge on some of our ground. The ground is pretty mixed; strips of mature mixed hardwood woods, younger (15-20 year old) beech plantation, patches of rough gorse covered ground and the rest is mostly wheat fields (winter stubble) with good heavy ditches. So my first question is which of these ground types is best suited to partridge?? were looking at getting 50-100 birds for our first try. Whats the best stocking density for partridge in a release pen and what size should the pen be? Also would we be better to buy say 10 week old poults or day old chicks? We buy all our pheasants in as poults which saves alot of work but can be pricey. Was thinking that partridge might be a bit easier to raise from chicks? Any other advice ye have would be more than welcome. Thanks very much lads (and ladies).
  8. ill make scrambled eggs with goats milk and cod liver oil..cooking the milk helps them to digest it better.gives a good boost of calcium and omega 3.
  9. ill cut out a section of left over carpet and put in on the floor of sleeping part of the hutch and put in a small amount of dust extracted shavings or the hey in the pet shops,it shouldnt have any bugs in it and they seem to love it, make a proper nest out of the stuff.
  10. yeah, line breeding will only be worth it if u give every ferret a chance to show its working ability and then pick the best for breeding If you just pick the kits you want at 6 weeks old then you could be picking the one that works least like the parents .if you do it tho id say breed mother-son or father-daughter and you should breed to a totally unrelated individual every second generation to avoid genetic illnesses/weaknesses. keeping a detailed log book would be important to keep track of all the matings and to help decide which ferrets would be best to breed from. To do it properly ud need to be able to keep the full litter each year and work them all (but thats in a perfect world). Id love to keep my own line but dont have the time or facilities.
  11. u can get 16ft MK3 box and collar brand new for about 190 euro..used box in good nick i suppose around 160-170 euro.
  12. Im not going to claim to be an expert on this by any means, but i am studying zoology and genetics in uni and From what iv studied ur safest way to ''inbreed'' for certain traits is to breed mother-son or father-daughter and every 2nd generation or so bring in some outside blood to keep some variety in the gene pool.Brothers and sisters can tend to be too similar in genetics, but for one breeding generation you should be fine. As has been said before the only reason we have such variety in domestic breeds today is because of generations of well managed inbreeding (with occasional outbreeding) so it can be done and still is done. But saying that there is a reason why a mongrel dog will live a longer healthier life than a pedigree on average. The more mixed and different the genetics are the better. Too many generations of close inbreeding can cause negative traits to become expressed and individuals can have less resistance to disease etc. Sorry about the essay just thought ye might be interested Alot of guys will prob tell you not to do it and to be honest unless your looking for a very specific trait your better off to get a good unrelated ferret, But as long as your not doing it over generations then you should be fine.
  13. I am looking for a hob to cover one of my jills this year for breeding. Is there anyone in Ireland (preferably the south east) who has a good working strain and that would be willing to let me use a hob for breeding. No preference on colour, just good healthy working ferret. Small would be best. (all my ferreting contacts have gotten out of the sport so i'm a bit stuck) Regards, Conor.
  14. not to change the subject but what weights do ye consider to be big/very big ferrets?
  15. iv seen those before..never caused a problem for mine,seem to go away after a while..a dose of ivormectin or something from the vet would do no harm anyway,its not that expensive.
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