ianrob
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Everything posted by ianrob
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Apparently nipping or play biting is just a normal invitation to play, you should feel privelaged that your ferret has accepted you as an equal my good fellow.
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Make sure you dry your net after use. Air dry it outside, but if the weather is unsuitable dty it in the house, but get it dry. Then hang it somewhere airy, I have a rack in my loft for all my nets. Unoficially as they don't reccomend it, you can soak your net in wood preserver, Cuprinol or the like. It makes the net smelly, but for night work you have the wind in your favour anyway. NB if it gets soil or blood on it, wash it, nothing rots a net faster. I recently left a purse net at a set for three weeks and it was rotten.
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I don't feel it's settled. A bucket is very difficult to envisage as a tunnel. I however feel that at this juncture, it is pointless to pursue it further. The bucket seems to kill effectively, and I'm happy with that. I was just concerned that the law was being broken. On an open site I felt it was risky to discuss it, as there are people who would like to stop us trapping. I however bow to the moderator, and concede that I may be wrong. In fact I hope I'm wrong. Happy trapping guys.
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Have a go, as you'll get holes in your nets, especially if you use them at night. One missed rabbit will make short work of a net once it gets over the initial shock of being caught.
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Source?
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Oh well I don't know how but I've uploaded it thrice.
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Hi Ludwig. A difficult task to explain though easy to show. I remember being shocked as I watched a guy repairing a hole in a salmon stake net. He set about it with a knife cutting mesh after mesh out of the damaged area, then started repairing it in a flurry of activity. The repair was perfect. To start you need a halfer, then cut the net so you can knit in one continuous repair, finishing again with a halfer. The knots into side meshes again are different, easy to show, not easy to explain. I've drawn a typical repair, it might help.
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Aaron, I had always thought that the use of a tunnel was obligatory when using Fenns, so I went for a look. This is a quote from the BASC site "With the exception of the Aldrich trap all spring traps must be set in a natural or artificial tunnel which is suitable for the purpose. It is an offence to set any spring trap in the open." I was taught to set in tunnels to ensure humane kills, and while the bucket seems to do the business, I feel we should only discuss very best practice on a public forum.
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Excellent place you have there Stubby, they certainly seem very happy ferrets. Nice to see mrs Stubby with the ferrets, my better half won't touch them.
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A bit big Andy, certainly no good for jills or young ferrets. You could possibly double it though, overlapped so that the spaces were 2" x 1".
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A good day, you can't complain. As for young ones, I caught a quarter grown one "it was tangled by a back leg" in early December. I have had a few young rabbits this winter. This poses the question, as to what triggers ovulation in the doe's. Is it temperature, food availability or what.
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Advanced netting, find the website, then email or give them a ring. Good luck.
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Aaron. I don't think this would be a legal or humane way to use a Fenn trap. Fenns should be used in a tunnel where the height is restricted to prevent the target species from being catapulted out of the jaws resulting in a leg hold or similar. Leg hold traps are illegal in the UK, and I'm sure there will be people visiting this site, who don't have our best interests at heart. We owe it to the animals we trap, to stick to the law, and always treat them humanely. Regards ian.
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Strewth mapreader, great night well done. This might be a silly question, but what do you mean when you say bar in the pegs. I've a bit of ground that I've not netted before because the ground's too stony to get the pegs in. Well done mate.
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How's it going. This is just the first reply, so wait, as there'll be a few opinions. Personally I'd go with 4 ply hemp, though the spun nylon seems very popular nowadays. Mesh size, well unless small rabbits are your main quarry, 2" is a touch small. A long net is a tangle net and 2 1/4" or 4 1/2" full mesh is good size. I knit mine 14 mesh wide, though it is possibly considered a little wide by some, "it can get under your feet", though I have no problem with it. 12 or 13 mesh can be used. The net when knitted and pulled tight like a rope should be twice as long as when it's set on it's cord
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Welcome, I'm relatively new myself, you'll enjoy it on here. ian.
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I can't really help, but I have the same round where I live. You just about have to trap or snare in the dark or get everything wrecked or stolen. I had two larsen traps tipped upside down last year the call birds gone and one of the traps broken. I suspected a bloke who walks his dogs out there so I collared him, and asked if he'd seen anyone tampering with the traps, of course he said no. I said well if you do tell them I'll kill them etc and explained how much hassle it caused, and I was going to the police etc etc. End of problem for now Poison wouldn't take long, Could som
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Get a countrymans weekly paper. You'll see ads for KP&S nets Bridport Nets etc. Give any of them a ring and explain your needs, and they'll bend over backwards to help. If I remember correctly, Bridport nets was the cheapest for 4ply hemp. You'll need a needle a mesh gauge some chrome or stainless steel rings, and some nylon braid for your slip chord. You can make pegs from ash or hazel. Give them a ring and they'll sort you out. Happy knitting
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2" is the standard size for purse nets. The reason being that the net is designed to trap the rabbit in a "purse". the net should allow the rabbit slide along the net till it is pursed. Larger mesh tends to get the rabbits head through easily and unless it's in the middle, it could take the net off the hole and kick free. I know fine that 2" isn't infallible, but it is the standard that has passed the test of time.
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Least shes wern't an anti, would much rather have her roaming the countryside than the antis If she was vegan to the extreme of having her dog wear a muzzle incase it catched rabbits im sure she was anti From what the lad has said she was in no way encouraging him to stop hunting at all. So how the f*ck is she anti-hunting???? If she doesn't want to eat meat so what? That her choice, if she doesn't want to have to take dead stuff from the dog, so what? She didn't try and tell the lad off for ferreting or anything like that so as far as im concern she can happily carry on do
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To make a quiver for the pegs, use a leg from an old pair of jeans. Sew it into an old combat jacket or whatever, and as everyone says, no buttons. I use 25" pegs mostly, so make your quiver to fit the pegs you use.
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Get sardines in oil, and pour the lot into a bowl, including the oil, and give them however much you think and the oil as well. Mine (two big hobs) get a tin spread over three days. They are on dry food, rabbits and anything else edible as it becomes available, and they look and behave great on it.
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I usually take them out when they're big enough, and then play it by ear. If they take to it fine, if not, wait a while and try them again.
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It just kinda made me wonder coz the youngest jill is only 6mths and after the first set of holes she seemed to refuse to go down anymore holes,so decided that she may be a little to young and so put her back in carry box to have a sleep..... every human will act differently to a situation & so will every animal.. in total i have 5 ferrets, 1 jill & 4 hobs. one of my hobs, "dougie" who is about 2 years old now, has no interest atall.. tried breaking him into to it, but just refuses to go in a set.. hes a bit chilled out, so i dont take him out & just let him have regular
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A lovely net indeed sir
