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.204 re barrel


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hi guys and gals i have had major trouble getting my 204 to shoot the way i wanted tried different ammo home loads scopes guns.i sent a howa back and got a tikka t3 which was much better but not great .eventually i sent it in to rifle craft who fitted a border barrel.im shooting it in one bullet a day but at 100 yds the first three bullets have grouped on a five pence piece and that is without precise ammo just using up some old homeloads that have not been trimmed or anything.i have spent one and a half years taring my hair out spending a fortune on ammo thinking it was me and all the time it seems that the problem is the gun.the howa i sent back was grouping a five inch group at 100.the tikka i got shooting a one inch at 100 but to do that i had to shoot 26 grain varmints and it lost its accuracy down range badly.a big shout out to riflecraft and border barrels.these guys know there stuff.here is a thought i wonder how many people are shooting guns that are not accurate enough to get a clean kill every time.and how can manufacturers get away with this i know i would pay the extra if the gun was going to be this good.for those interested i had a 1 in 11 twist rate to shoot the 40 grain ammo .thanks riflecraft.

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hi guys and gals i have had major trouble getting my 204 to shoot the way i wanted tried different ammo home loads scopes guns.i sent a howa back and got a tikka t3 which was much better but not great .eventually i sent it in to rifle craft who fitted a border barrel.im shooting it in one bullet a day but at 100 yds the first three bullets have grouped on a five pence piece and that is without precise ammo just using up some old homeloads that have not been trimmed or anything.i have spent one and a half years taring my hair out spending a fortune on ammo thinking it was me and all the time it seems that the problem is the gun.the howa i sent back was grouping a five inch group at 100.the tikka i got shooting a one inch at 100 but to do that i had to shoot 26 grain varmints and it lost its accuracy down range badly.a big shout out to riflecraft and border barrels.these guys know there stuff.here is a thought i wonder how many people are shooting guns that are not accurate enough to get a clean kill every time.and how can manufacturers get away with this i know i would pay the extra if the gun was going to be this good.for those interested i had a 1 in 11 twist rate to shoot the 40 grain ammo .thanks riflecraft.

 

 

Just out of interest Mike is it a heavy barrel and were the others the same profile?

 

Martin

 

p.s. I had a Ruger that was super accurate.

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hi guys and gals i have had major trouble getting my 204 to shoot the way i wanted tried different ammo home loads scopes guns.i sent a howa back and got a tikka t3 which was much better but not great .eventually i sent it in to rifle craft who fitted a border barrel.im shooting it in one bullet a day but at 100 yds the first three bullets have grouped on a five pence piece and that is without precise ammo just using up some old homeloads that have not been trimmed or anything.i have spent one and a half years taring my hair out spending a fortune on ammo thinking it was me and all the time it seems that the problem is the gun.the howa i sent back was grouping a five inch group at 100.the tikka i got shooting a one inch at 100 but to do that i had to shoot 26 grain varmints and it lost its accuracy down range badly.a big shout out to riflecraft and border barrels.these guys know there stuff.here is a thought i wonder how many people are shooting guns that are not accurate enough to get a clean kill every time.and how can manufacturers get away with this i know i would pay the extra if the gun was going to be this good.for those interested i had a 1 in 11 twist rate to shoot the 40 grain ammo .thanks riflecraft.

 

 

Just out of interest Mike is it a heavy barrel and were the others the same profile?

 

Martin

 

p.s. I had a Ruger that was super accurate.

 

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hi martin yes all varmint barrels from what i here its pot luck weather you get a good one.my anschutz .17hmr was spot on out of the box that was the only thing that re assured me it was not my shooting.the five inch grouping with the howa was with factory ammo my gun dealer took it back and had a go and did no better so gave me money back.and if your going to shoot 26 grain varmints that dont hold accuracy well beyond 150 yds it not doing anything that the anschutz wont do.i can not wait to see what this gun will be capable of now.

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Mike this is very interesting as I am about to swap one of my 22-250's for a 204. I was thinking of the sako which I believe has the same barrel as the tika. I know nothing about twist rates or barrels etc. I just point and shoot, but that method only works if the guns up to the job.

I guess the 1 in 11 twist is better for the heavier round so what twist rate should I avoid? I want the 204 for 200yrd foxes so need the most stopping power at the longer range of the gun. Is the 1 in 11 best for this?

What barrel length should I go for? I walk alot so I suppose the most accurate but quite manoeuverable would suit my needs.

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Mike this is very interesting as I am about to swap one of my 22-250's for a 204. I was thinking of the sako which I believe has the same barrel as the tika. I know nothing about twist rates or barrels etc. I just point and shoot, but that method only works if the guns up to the job.

I guess the 1 in 11 twist is better for the heavier round so what twist rate should I avoid? I want the 204 for 200yrd foxes so need the most stopping power at the longer range of the gun. Is the 1 in 11 best for this?

What barrel length should I go for? I walk alot so I suppose the most accurate but quite manoeuverable would suit my needs.

 

1 in 10 should stabilise from 28gr Blitzking to 48 gr SPBT FMJ. It's worth bearing in mind that a Border or Archer barrel will be exactly the twist rate claimed. An xyz barrel can be a long way off.

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So I guess a standard sako barrel is one of your xyz barrels? Would I be better getting a 1in 10 or 1in 11 sako or would it not be what they say anyway? What is the price of an archer or Border barrel? Do I start by buying a complete gun and then send it off to be rebarreled or just buy it in bits? Sorry about the dumb questions!

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Not dumb questions at all mate. I've done a lot of research on this! I'd say if you wanr to stabilise heavier, ie longer, bullets, with a manufacturer's barrel, go for 1:10 if you can. Basically, the faster twist stabilises heavier bullets better. So if you are planning to shoot 40 gr at ~200 yards 1:10 will be the dog's dodgy bits. 1:11 minimum.

 

Border/Archer barrels are expensive. They are also the best. Even American wildcatters for 'em big style.

 

For max performance you need 26"

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i'd highly recommened tha archer barrel, the price depends on what you want, ie, 5r rifling, standard, flutes, profile, etc....

 

save the money ,go for an archer and spend the extra you would pay on fluting for it....

 

1 in 10, will be the business, the 1 in 12's just about stabilize the 40g, and even some 39's have bother...

 

 

Snap.

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Mike this is very interesting as I am about to swap one of my 22-250's for a 204. I was thinking of the sako which I believe has the same barrel as the tika. I know nothing about twist rates or barrels etc. I just point and shoot, but that method only works if the guns up to the job.

I guess the 1 in 11 twist is better for the heavier round so what twist rate should I avoid? I want the 204 for 200yrd foxes so need the most stopping power at the longer range of the gun. Is the 1 in 11 best for this?

What barrel length should I go for? I walk alot so I suppose the most accurate but quite manoeuverable would suit my needs.

 

 

hi sorry long day got to be honest the defference between a 22-250 and a 204 is minor if anytghing the 250 is more versitile.the 204 may have a slightly flatter trajectory.the 204 allways has a 1 in 12 as standard i belive but the 1 in 11 is to make hevier bullets more stable as for barrel length the longer the better i do not mind carrying a heavy gun all day on my back as long as i know i can spot something at long range and make the shot.a heavy barrel does not heat up to quickly and allows you to take more shots quicker . for the difference i would keep my 22-250 and just get it insanely accurate and get a scope with target turrets so you know where it hits at each range.hope this helps .cheers mike

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So I guess a standard sako barrel is one of your xyz barrels? Would I be better getting a 1in 10 or 1in 11 sako or would it not be what they say anyway? What is the price of an archer or Border barrel? Do I start by buying a complete gun and then send it off to be rebarreled or just buy it in bits? Sorry about the dumb questions!

 

 

honest i dont work for riflecraft but you will allways get lots of opinions and the net will drive you crazy.have a chat to these guys if it costs around 700+ but your gun is proofed bluprinted action.im not a wealthy man but its worth every penny if you get the gun you want.have you checked out tikka t3 .204 on google videos.chech out the accuracy some guys are achieving its alot i know but after the experience i have had im now a custom rifle man.some lucky guys on here get tac drivers out of the box.roll the dice if you wish.

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Mike my main reason of getting the 204 is for a nv add on. It's only reccommended up to 223 but I like the sound of a 204. I've got two 22-250's the one is my lamping gun with a swarovski z6i for the longer shots and the other can't be fitted with a mod so it has to go. This barrel issue is something Im now going to look at in great depth thanks for everyones help. :thumbs:

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ive heard good and bad things about riflecraft. some good that they do barrel they take off new rifles that are in to be turned custom. so they sell off the new factory barrels cheap fit and proof them for next to no money which is good.

 

but bad that a guy had a remmy from them what they said was blueprinted etc. when he had the rifle rebarreled in the future by a different smith. it turns out the remmy action hadnt even been worked on so wasnt blueprinted. this to me isnt very good. paying for a blueprinted action that wasnt even touched i bet that wasnt cheap.

Edited by jamie g
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