Shotgun Barrel Shortening

[tomburras 2,730]

Hi I am looking to take a few inches off my baikal hammer gun to open up the chokes and make it a bit shorter. I use it for ferreting and I love using the hammer gun for it but it's a bit long and tightly choked. Would it be possible/legal to have the barrels shortened? Any info would be great.

 

Cheers tom.

[walshie 2,804]

It would be legal as long as they don't go below 24". Bear in mind you'll have no choke at all then. You'd probably have to have it reproofed if you ever wanted to sell it, but I'm not 100% sure on that part.

[Mickyblue 0]

24" unless you have a fire arms licence , there are some nice SABEL and AYA with 25" barrels for sale i am unsure if on the register your barrel length will be noted ask your fire arms officer , if so changing it may be a nightmare

Edited January 18, 2015 by Mickyblue

[SportingShooter 0]

No issues in shortening the barrel from a legal perspective providing it is 24" or longer.

 

If you want to do it properly, then it will need to be done by a gunsmith, sent for re-proof and providing it passes, come back to you.

 

As Walshie says, both barrels would then be true cylinder.

[tomburras 2,730]

Cheers guys, yes I'd get a gun smith to do it and I don't mind cylender chokes as it is only for close range ferreting. Would it have to be reproofed?

[trenchfoot 4,243]

for the cost of having that work done you could pick up a nice 25,26" barrelled side by side

[tomburras 2,730]

for the cost of having that work done you could pick up a nice 25,26" barrelled side by side

Yes very true but I love using this hammergun for ferreting so I'd like to get this done on my hammergun if possible. And the open chokes would be great as it's full/full at the moment and a bit too tight for the odd close range shot while ferreting.

[andyf 144]

Why not get the chokes bored out? Any gunshop will get that done for you for not a lot of money.

Also the barrels are soldered together by the upper and lower ribs and just chopping the length down is not that simple

and may involve extra working (and cost), like re-bluing and re-installing the bead.

Really it's not a viable option for an old hammergun, other than you taking a hacksaw to it which will almost certainly

render it worthless!

[tomburras 2,730]

Why not get the chokes bored out? Any gunshop will get that done for you for not a lot of money.

Also the barrels are soldered together by the upper and lower ribs and just chopping the length down is not that simple

and may involve extra working (and cost), like re-bluing and re-installing the bead.

Really it's not a viable option for an old hammergun, other than you taking a hacksaw to it which will almost certainly

render it worthless!

I see where you are coming from, it's only a baikal hammergun that stands me at £60 and it's going to be used purely for a tool and for myself only. I can get my brother to reblue it and fit a bead. I'd like to carry a 12 instead of a .410 as sometimes I come across a fox while out and the option of dropping heavy cartridge in if needed would be handy. Like I say, I don't mind de-valuing it as it's purely a tool

[SportingShooter 0]

Cheers guys, yes I'd get a gun smith to do it and I don't mind cylender chokes as it is only for close range ferreting. Would it have to be reproofed?

 

If you intended to sell it or transfer it in any way then yes it would have to be re-proofed,

 

The gunsmith is likely to insist on it before handing it back to you. It's to cover his back as well as yours.

[wilbur foxhound 480]

 

for the cost of having that work done you could pick up a nice 25,26" barrelled side by side

Yes very true but I love using this hammergun for ferreting so I'd like to get this done on my hammergun if possible. And the open chokes would be great as it's full/full at the moment and a bit too tight for the odd close range shot while ferreting.

why dont you stand further back when ready to shoot that way it wont cost you anything and give you a bit of practice shooting further out,atb wf

[tomburras 2,730]

 

 

for the cost of having that work done you could pick up a nice 25,26" barrelled side by side

Yes very true but I love using this hammergun for ferreting so I'd like to get this done on my hammergun if possible. And the open chokes would be great as it's full/full at the moment and a bit too tight for the odd close range shot while ferreting.

why dont you stand further back when ready to shoot that way it wont cost you anything and give you a bit of practice shooting further out,atb wf

 

I see where you are coming from but in a wood the further away I stand there's many trees between me and the rabbit and some times if I don't net up all the holes there's 20 yards between the rabbit bolting and entering another hole where standing back would give me little chance because of the trees. And when I stand close they are pretty damaged with the full choke.

[trenchfoot 4,243]

 

 

 

for the cost of having that work done you could pick up a nice 25,26" barrelled side by side

Yes very true but I love using this hammergun for ferreting so I'd like to get this done on my hammergun if possible. And the open chokes would be great as it's full/full at the moment and a bit too tight for the odd close range shot while ferreting.

why dont you stand further back when ready to shoot that way it wont cost you anything and give you a bit of practice shooting further out,atb wf

 

I see where you are coming from but in a wood the further away I stand there's many trees between me and the rabbit and some times if I don't net up all the holes there's 20 yards between the rabbit bolting and entering another hole where standing back would give me little chance because of the trees. And when I stand close they are pretty damaged with the full choke.

 

I know where you are coming from. I felt the same and sold a perfectly good beretta and bought an open choked, AYA 25" side by side, with very little choke. It was a big mistake. If you are hitting the target with full choke, then your shooting must be pretty much up to snuff. My honest suggestion is, get the chokes opened out to improved cylinder and half. that way, your first barrel is very open, but has a reasonable pattern, and your second barrel will still have enough to cope with a second shot at a rapidly departing target up to 40 yardsish. Should a fox turn up, or you start to shoot in situations where more choke would be useful, then you still have the right tool for the job.

 

If you are not happy after you have tried that, you can still take the hacksaw to the end of the barrels. Do it the other way around, and you cant glue those lost inches back on

[tomburras 2,730]

 

 

 

 

 

for the cost of having that work done you could pick up a nice 25,26" barrelled side by side

Yes very true but I love using this hammergun for ferreting so I'd like to get this done on my hammergun if possible. And the open chokes would be great as it's full/full at the moment and a bit too tight for the odd close range shot while ferreting.

why dont you stand further back when ready to shoot that way it wont cost you anything and give you a bit of practice shooting further out,atb wf

I see where you are coming from but in a wood the further away I stand there's many trees between me and the rabbit and some times if I don't net up all the holes there's 20 yards between the rabbit bolting and entering another hole where standing back would give me little chance because of the trees. And when I stand close they are pretty damaged with the full choke.

I know where you are coming from. I felt the same and sold a perfectly good beretta and bought an open choked, AYA 25" side by side, with very little choke. It was a big mistake. If you are hitting the target with full choke, then your shooting must be pretty much up to snuff. My honest suggestion is, get the chokes opened out to improved cylinder and half. that way, your first barrel is very open, but has a reasonable pattern, and your second barrel will still have enough to cope with a second shot at a rapidly departing target up to 40 yardsish. Should a fox turn up, or you start to shoot in situations where more choke would be useful, then you still have the right tool for the job.

 

If you are not happy after you have tried that, you can still take the hacksaw to the end of the barrels. Do it the other way around, and you cant glue those lost inches back on

Thanks for that, I think it may be the way to go. It's not a sudden decision, I thaught it about it during many trips out. I'll have a word with the gunsmiths in brighouse.

 

Cheers.

[trenchfoot 4,243]

 

 

 

 

 

for the cost of having that work done you could pick up a nice 25,26" barrelled side by side

Yes very true but I love using this hammergun for ferreting so I'd like to get this done on my hammergun if possible. And the open chokes would be great as it's full/full at the moment and a bit too tight for the odd close range shot while ferreting.

why dont you stand further back when ready to shoot that way it wont cost you anything and give you a bit of practice shooting further out,atb wf

I see where you are coming from but in a wood the further away I stand there's many trees between me and the rabbit and some times if I don't net up all the holes there's 20 yards between the rabbit bolting and entering another hole where standing back would give me little chance because of the trees. And when I stand close they are pretty damaged with the full choke.

I know where you are coming from. I felt the same and sold a perfectly good beretta and bought an open choked, AYA 25" side by side, with very little choke. It was a big mistake. If you are hitting the target with full choke, then your shooting must be pretty much up to snuff. My honest suggestion is, get the chokes opened out to improved cylinder and half. that way, your first barrel is very open, but has a reasonable pattern, and your second barrel will still have enough to cope with a second shot at a rapidly departing target up to 40 yardsish. Should a fox turn up, or you start to shoot in situations where more choke would be useful, then you still have the right tool for the job.

 

If you are not happy after you have tried that, you can still take the hacksaw to the end of the barrels. Do it the other way around, and you cant glue those lost inches back on

Thanks for that, I think it may be the way to go. It's not a sudden decision, I thaught it about it during many trips out. I'll have a word with the gunsmiths in brighouse.

 

Cheers.

 

Arron will just take your money. Trust me, I've known him at least 30 years. Do it in baby steps and take your time.

Edited January 19, 2015 by trenchfoot