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223 50 Yard Zero?


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Tried some homeloads just now checked zero at 50 yards and had 3 shot groups all touching clover leaf, am I right in thinking it will be high slightly at 100 and back in zero again at 250? Using 40 grain vmax

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Tried some homeloads just now checked zero at 50 yards and had 3 shot groups all touching clover leaf, am I right in thinking it will be high slightly at 100 and back in zero again at 250? Using 40 grain vmax

 

unless you know the velocity of the bullet then it's all a guess so your options are chronograph and trust the ballistic tables or and the one I would recommend get out there and find out on target :thumbs:

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Yeah you're right just being lazy lol its just that I'm not a member at a range and the cover is up on most of my land, silage will be cut this week and ill have a afternoon testing

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with Hornady 40gr a 50 yard zero would be the same as a 200 yard zero and if your shot was 0.5" high at 50 yards it would be the same as a 250 yard zero but your using home loads so that's of no real use to you.

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I have checked the velocity which is 3382 fps gives me 1" high at 100 and only 0.3" low at 200, and 5.8 low at 300, very happy with that, I was getting 3800 with my old powder which was accurate 2460, but cant get it so this is a recipe with viht 133

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well i chrono mine and with a 50yrd zero they are low 4.9" at 250, but this is 55g with muz vel of 3210fps

3382 is proper top of the tree numbers, are you sure ??? how many shots did you avarage out to get to that number

Edited by rimmer
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Google 'shooters calculator' and then read & understand about near zero / far zero.

You can set your own size 'tube' for the bullets flight, but you still a chronograph to make it worthwhile.

It gives you the near zero range which is nearly always 50 M or less, so most ground can provide that

distance for zeroing, and it's easy to spot the shot fall from there or just walk up and look!

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The only thing about using a 'near zero' is that it does not show much of an error. It is, however, good for a quick check.

 

You can only zero accurately at true shooting distances.

 

Zero could be chosen by the distance that you most frequently shoot or perhaps (with reference to a trajectory graph) to whatever gives you the flattest shooting.

 

There are no rules. It is whatever distance suits you, your rifle and ammunition, your target or quarry.

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