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Educating Running Dogs


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OK cool will see how we get on, will make it friday though (i honestly thought it was friday when i typed that lol) that way we can make more of a night of it, even if it doesnt really work out you can keep him on the lead and go round some different places.

 

Glad you said that, took him out at four this morning and were both about to collapse! But yes, very keen to make him a good hunting dog. If coursing was still legal he'd be deadly (if you could ever catch him again). Just a very nervous dog who needs a lot of figuring out.

 

its the basics you need first mate, the hunting will follow..

Still should be able to get you both a decent night out in the meantime..

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Skycat - horses and dogs are very different animals. You can't put the psychology of a fight or flight vegetarian into a meat eating hunter. If you could I wouldn't be having any issues. Hes twice the dog now than when I got him, his character is coming out all the time. A year ago I couldnt even put his lead on without him wetting the floor beneath him. He used to run and hide in a bush in the garden. Now he's a very happy, much healthier dog but we still have some bits to work through before we've learnt to work as a team. I know a lurcher would be better, or even a whippet, but he's my dog - he's what I've got so were going to try our best. He loves chasing but we just need to make it safe and fun for both of us and whoever we come across when we're out.

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You can actually. A frightened dog is behaving more like a prey animal than a predator. That's the same flight behaviour: run before something nasty gets you. Dogs shouldn't behave like prey animals, but they do if they've been abused or neglected.

The joining up process is the same though: one built on trust.

I didn't realise you'd had the dog for so long, and good on you for getting him to where he is now. I still maintain that you need someone very experienced to analyse why the dog won't come to you in the field: it could still be a hangover from his past, or it might be more that he sees coming to you as the end to his freedom and fun, in which case you will have to retrain him to see you as the source of all good things, the chance to release his prey drive whilst with you.

Have you done any tug play/retrieving games with him?

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Here's a link to his website: http://www.jandjgreenwood.co.uk/contact.php

 

 

His web page looks great...

 

I have had a few lurchers and all have retrieved..

 

I am having some problems with a young dog and have sought help from older wiser men..

 

If I cant get the results, I would not think twice about paying someone to show me the error of my ways..

 

That's not lazy, I have limitations..

 

In my opinion its an investment..

 

 

 

Wish you all the best with the dog fella..

 

Least you are trying your best :thumbs:

Edited by Giro
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Yes Skycat I've tried everything I've researched but can't seem to nail it. I've had him a year and a half and love him to bits. He's was a wreck when I got him. No hair on his backside or tail, very thin. Everytime I picked a brush up (not thinking) to scrub the back yard he'd hide in the shed and lean against the back wall shaking. Now he sleeps on my feet (as he is now), barks at passers by, wakes me up when the alarm goes off fir his breakfast. He came to work with me for the first time today and enjoyed it. He's finally got used to my kids who are now so happy they can stroke him and cuddle him without him running away. The hunting thing is just something healthy and fun for us both if we can figure it out.

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its up to you but I wouldn't bring him hunting until he is fairly good on recall. if he is as hard to catch as you say he is you will have no chance of catching him if he catches a rabbit because he will think you are trying to take his hard earned prize.

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If a dog has had a bad experience, or several, with humans, it can take years to get its head straight. But there are certain things that may defy all your efforts, unless you approach things through understanding how the dog feels. He is obviously in a good place with you now, but that is when he is switched off, not in hunting mode, or, as we'd call it, in drive, prey drive.

Being in prey drive, full of chasing and killing, is still not compatible with being close to you, and until you can get him to feel good, in contact with you, AND in prey drive mode, recall will always be a challenge when the dog is out in the field.

 

This is why tug training is so good, for the dog learns that it can be in the most exciting and fulfilling mode whilst in contact, physically, with you. At the moment your are beginning to represent safety, which can only be a good thing, but for a hunting dog, you come a very poor second to the thrill of being the big predator, chasing and killing things, which is THE best place to be if you are a dog. If the dog has to switch off it's drive when it comes back to you, then you'll always have problems on this one.

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its up to you but I wouldn't bring him hunting until he is fairly good on recall. if he is as hard to catch as you say he is you will have no chance of catching him if he catches a rabbit because he will think you are trying to take his hard earned prize.

It wont be going hunting more coming out for a walk on the lead. Like you say until recall is sorted there is no point in it running around putting stuff to ground. The other issue is that with it being an ex track dog that cannot really be left of the lead it will be a massive danger to itself when running at night as it wont ever of had to contend with obstacles etc that a pup brought up in a regular way would have. The chances of it seriously hurting itself would be massive

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