Jump to content

Axholme Ferreter

Members
  • Content Count

    143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Axholme Ferreter

  1. This is what I was able to find. May be able to salvage some pegs and other bits. All the best AF
  2. Well, went this morning and recovered as many bits as I could but all the snares I found were pretty well manged. They insisted that they wanted to pay and so I said £2.50 per snare. Not sure if this is over the top or not but they paid up strait away. All the best AF
  3. Had some time off work this week so I have had a lot of traps and snares out catching up on some rabbit control I had promised to do at several farms etc. In one paddock field I had 61 figure four wire tealer snares set. Put them out on Monday and have been checking them morning and evening and was planning to pick them up tomorrow. I had a lovely couple of hours shooting at another farm before I went to check this particular field. When I got there it had been topped!!!!!! Went to speak with the owner who had 'forgotten' to tell the guy doing the topping. Fair play they have offered to pay fo
  4. I think I know what you mean, When the trap is set and the trigger is engaged there is still a little bit of pressure on the safety so it is difficult to take off especially as it is slightly hooked. I think it is because the hole for the pivot in the saferty catch is slightly in the wrong place. I had a Springer with this problem. I just filed a bit off the safety hook so it would release but you need to take care not to re shape it too much so thet it slips off on its own when under pressure. i.e. it needs to keep its slightly hooked shape so that if the trap fires it can still hold the roun
  5. The traps came direct from Solway Feeders they were bought for me by a site I control rabbits on so I have not got an invoice or anything. I wouldn't mind but I recommended they buy them, I sent off for one myself to have a look at but foolishly I did not test it in the field. It seemed to look a lot like the Fenns and Springers I have so I thought they would be OK. I certainly think some kind of letter or something to Solways is in order though, there is clearly a problem with these traps, there is no way that they are humane. I substituted them today with Fenns and Springers and this even
  6. Picked the rest up this morning. Two rabbits, one dead, one alive. I guess people are right, generally you get what you pay for. I wont be using these any more, I will just cary on with the expensive Fenns. All the best AF
  7. Well I should have listened to Gnipper. I decided to give these traps another try. Put 9 out this afternoon and have just been to check them. One live rabbit (again well caught by the head) and one sprung with a lot of fur on it so it must have bruised the rabbit at least before it ran off. I have yet to get a dead rabbit in one of these!!! I am going to pick them up in the morning and bin them!! All the best A disgruntled AF
  8. I got 10 a couple of weeks ago and there is no gap in the jaws, they seem to close to with no problem. However I used them for the first time last week, I ony caught three rabbits, all were caught well by the head and all were still well alive. I was using them alongside Fenns and Springers which also caught and all catches were dead. It could be a coincidence? I am trying them again in a couple of weeks so it will be interesting to see the results. All the best AF
  9. Hi Stubby, I got one of those last year and I think its very good. Its amazing how much life there is in MK3 collar batteries. I had been changing them every couple of months but since getting this gadget I have been using some for 2 years now. I have easily saved the outlay of the tester. It is also useful if a collar stops working you can check strait away if its the batteries or not. I had a collar stop working in March, it was fairly new so I was a bit peeved. I checked the batteries and one was fine but the other had gone dud so I was able to fix the problem strait away with no head s
  10. Got a couple of tins of trap dip from John B the other day and so got set to work this afternoon. I gave all the traps a good clean and scrub as the ones I was dipping were already used. Where they were very rusty I gave them a quick wire brush and then a rinse off. The dip instructions say to mix one quart tin with a gallon of unleaded petrol or coleman fuel. I priced up Coleman fuel (which is supposed to be the best to use) £6 for 500ml so I decided to use petrol instead, I then remembered how much that was these days but still a lot cheaper than the Coleman fuel. I thought over a ga
  11. The names get me: Labradoodle, sprocker??? Anyway must go and feed my Whidlington (or is it a Bedlit) All the best AF
  12. I think trap type is a matter of personal preference. I like the Duffus type as it is the trap I was taught with and in my opinion it is the most versatile. Other people have different opinions and I would not argue with them, it is a case of what works best for you. As regards the mole probe or dibber the one they have on sale at Flatpack is similar to the ones supplied with Talunex but the bulb on the point is not as big, it does not need to be because it is not making a hole for the applicator. It means that it is easier to push in the ground particularly when it is hard but you still get
  13. Things I like about this trap compared to many others on sale are Thicker top and not as wide as some, stronger wire on trigger loops (high tensile?) short trigger hook so no need to cut them down, short end on spring retaining bar so no need to cut them down, bottom of catching loop flat so is tighter to top when sprung and trigger loop not too wide so moles head doesn't fit through. I use these straight out of the box with no need for any tweaks or modifications
  14. I have used Flatpack Mole traps for about 18 months now and have been very impressed with their quality. I was lucky enough a couple of weeks ago to visit the company in North Yorkshire. It consists of a husband and wife team based at an old dales farmhouse. Chris the owner is an engineer and has designed and made the tooling to produce the traps based of course originally on the Duffus trap. The componets are produced by them in Yorkshire and they assemble the traps by hand in an old farm outbulding at their home. They have apparently only been producing traps a couple of years and after som
  15. Hello Mate, The Fenn Mk1 rabbit is still legal to use on rabbits set in a tunnel. All the best AF
  16. I am looking to buy a Victor Conibear 120-2 trap. I want just one to to have a look at to start with to see how I go on with it on rabbits before investing in any more or sticking with Fenns. Does anyone know of a UK supplier who will mail order just one? All the best AF
  17. Hi John, Looks very good to me. Paypal sent (from my wifes account ) All the best AF
  18. Hi Timeout, See if this explanation works: Hold the snare at the end where it is fixed to the tealer with the loop vertical and pointing towards you. With the other hand starting at the tealer end place your forefinger and index finger under the wire (inside the loop) and your thumb on the top (outside the loop). Press your thumb and fingers together over the wire squeezing it and straitening it as if you were trying to flatten out the loop. Move your fingers along the wire about half an ainch and repeat. Continue right around the loop until you get to the eye. If you could make sense
  19. I was right I am thick. Thanks for that stubby and others. I will get cracking on some wooden supports. All the best AF
  20. Thanks for the advice chaps I will have to give this one a try. Just one query I am a little unsure about the mechanics of putting the poles in to blocks of wood or concrete or what ever. Wouldnt this mean that the bottom line of the net would then be off the ground or is this me being thick. Do you use traditional nets with the poles loose? I have quick sets and I am not sure how to do this bit with them? Any further explanation for the hard of understanding (me) would be appreciated. All the best AF
  21. I have a rabbit control job on an enclosed site. Started last year and have managed to clear most of the site (87 rabbits) using a variety of methods but I have a problem. There is a hard core poulation (which is of course now increasing!) living under some permanently sited Portacabins. The portacabins are raised up so the rabbits have a route out on all 4 sides. The font side is out on to concrete/tarmac so I can not set a long net all the way around, I would be reluctant to put my ferrets under anyway as if I got a lie up I would not be able to dig. I have to be discrete and I can only do c
  22. Must have Ginger relatives in Yorkshire. All the best AF
  23. Hi Shotty Sid, Your traps are probably being filled because the moles sense there is something different or threatening in their run. You need to make sure the trap , what ever type you are using is set in the mole run correctly, that it is covered sufficiently to exclude any air currents, noise, light etc, that you have not let any dirt go down the run when you have opened it up and that you have smoothed out the run before setting the trap. Some moles seem to be more sensitive than others and sometimes even if you set the trap very carefully it will still get filled. In cases like that i
  24. Thanks John, These look just the job. Just got to make the rest of the trap now!! All the best AF
×
×
  • Create New...