david901
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Posts posted by david901
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Many years ago I used a Lakeland terrier for bushing out rabbits and moorhens for my Harris Hawk.
As Pointer stated above, there is always the risk of the dog going to ground.
I suppose a lot depends on the dog in question.
A lot of American hunters use Jack Russell types with their Redtails or Harris' for bushing.
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This may be a daft question, but why does your friend not sell the pup himself instead of getting a "mate" to sell for him?
As if he sells it himself, he can vet any potential customer and also give all the relevant information.
Just curious.
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Sorry to hear about your friend.
Is there someone to look after them in the meantime until they are sold?
Good luck with the sale?
You could also advertise them on Birdtrader, IBR,and Facebook as well.
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That's a crazy price for a gsp or any hpr breed that is a greedy person in my eyes I've had HPR breeds for a while now vislas gwp English pointers and have never paid over 350 for one even got a English for nowt get yourself around shooting men particularly the ones who count grouse or hill keepers they will nearly always want to do a deal with yourself I.e a pup back in years to come or a few studs from a dog this 700 mark is utter madness gone are the days when I was young pups went for nowt or a few pints through friends in my opinion though forget a gsp and get a pointer lab pick them up for buttons and twice the dog of any hpr breed I find
Barry I tend to agree with your opinion regarding the older generation and their dogs.
Unfortunately times have moved on and for a lot of people, they see breeding dogs as a way of making money.
Some breeders, though not all have the interest of their breed at heart and ensure they breed the best dog they possibly can, eg some breeders will travel into Europe to get a particular stud dug for their bitch. It may or may not be anything special, but I can understand why they charge £600 or £700.
At the end of the day, the price is determined by what people will pay.
PS I do NOT breed dogs.
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There are quite a few owls for sale on Facebook.
Loads of different sites. Also try IBR birdmart.
https://www.(!64.56:886/groups/BIRDSOFPREYFORSALE/?ref=bookmarks
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Hi mate,
You need to decide what you need from a terrier. That will be difficult if you have limited experience........
Some terriers are good at bolting foxes - good in difficult to dig places.
Some are good at killing a fox, and others will stay with the fox until it is dug out.
You should speak to as many blokes as you can and figure out what you require, then try and find someone who breeds that type of terrier.
Cheers
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Also you need to consider that a responsible breeder will have the dog and bitch Hip Displasia tested that cost about £200 for each parent.
Plus if there any genetic conditions the breed may be prone to, the breeder may have this tested for also, which in turn costs more money.
All this adds to the cost of the pup.
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Seen pups go from £500 up to £800.
There are some that are probably dearer.
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How much was he eating, and how much is he eating now? Is he down for moult? Is his keel sharp? What's his hunting weight? What's his weight now?If honest with you mate, it's a bit difficult for anybody to answer your question on the Internet without seeing the bird and knowing the birds history, if your worried about his health, then a good vet is your best option.
AS above mate. If in doubt seek out someone who knows about them.
A good avian vet is what you are after as normal cat and dog vets don't really know a lot about hawks.
Or better still get someone who is experienced with BOPs.
All the best
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If you read Philip Glasier's book or Emma Ford or Martin Hollinshead's Complete Rabbit and Hare hawk, they all have information on housing.
Just remember to site so it gets sunlight for part of the day.
Somewhere fairly quiet is good as well, but where it can still see what is going on around it.
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read a few times that is good to keep hh company ..thath helps maintain their normal caracter....
It all depends on the nature of the hawk. If its a good natured and steady hawk, you can keep up a fair bit of contact,
BUT seeing as she is aggresive, I would fatten her up and moult her out freelofted in an avairy with minimum contact.
Usually the hawk is kept in a seclusion aviary, but not always again it all depends on the nature of the individual bird.
All the best.
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a screaming spar can drive you to anti depressants never mind a Gos
Very true mate.
Not all imprints scream so I'm told. It must just be mine.LOL
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Pete Smith's book is ok.
I have not heard anything great about the books mentioned in above post. Never read them myself though.
On a side note, I have an imprint gos and a parent reared one and to be honest I prefer the parent reared.
Cheers
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Hi Mate
In my opinion, Falconry Centres can be a bit of a joke. Not everyone who works/runs one know what they are doing.
If I were you, I would join the Yorkshire hawking club or any other local one.
Get out on as many field meets as possible and ask loads of questions.
Genuine people will be only too happy to help someone get started on the right path.
Beware of advice given on forums as its the same again, not everyone who posts loads of advice on the forums know what they are doing.
Read plenty of books such as Glasiers' Falconry and Hawking, Emma Ford's Falconry, just to start with.
It is easier to learn from a mentor, but you can learn through books.
Good luck.
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Hi mate, i hear no younger than 18 months before running a GSP on game ? is that correct ?
I allowed my Brittany to hunt from about 4 or 5 months old.
Nothing serious, just took him to a moor where I knew there were plenty of snipe and let him hunt and point them.
Sometimes he made "mistakes" and flushed them too early. He then chased them. I allowed this and let him.
It wasn't long before he realised he couldn't catch them. Getting a dog to point is also about the time of year it is.
Some birds will hold better for a point at certain times/weather conditions.
Have you got access to pigeons? A good training aid.
I would keep him away from ground game until he is steady.
I read Derry Argues book on Pointers and Setters. I found it a good way to train, though not to everyone's taste.
As for running to play with other dogs, mine will still do it occasionally, but only when out exercising and never when we're hunting.
All the best with him.
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breast bone is dull,lot of muscels on it
It is never a good thing to advise on a forum if a bird is under or over weight.
That is something only you can gauge [or get someone experienced to assist you]
Personally, I would rather work on building a positive relationship with the hawk.
Spend lots of time manning it, BUT with a positive outcome for the bird, IE walking with her
with a tiring/plummage,etc things that will help build a bond with the bird.
Hunting is good and probably the best way to bond with a hawk, but whatever you were doing perhaps didn't work?
Maybe more "quality time" will help.
All the best.
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Thanks WC.
Cracking dogs by the look of them.
Back in the Eighties/Nineties I had a Plummer cross Russell dog.
He was a good sized dog and very eager to please.
He wasn't the best worker in the world though he did do some decent work,
but eventually he got too hard by the time he was 5 or 6.
I think if I had him now I would have done things differently when entering him,
maybe held him back til he was 2 years old.
Cheers
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Mate, how sharp is the keel?
That should give you an idea if she is too low or high in condition.
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I knew a lad that had a female gos that nailed him on the side of the face.
It turned out the bird was quite a bit under-weight and was obviously frustrated.
A lot can come down to how you treat the hawk....things like not robbing kills off her.
Helping her break in and also feed her tidbits while she is on a kill can help to strengthen the bond between man and hawk.
There are so many little things that can make a difference.
Its difficult to give any advice without seeing the hawk in a action as it were.
You mention that she was a bit footy with her former owner.
That is not good or normal behaviour. It usually means someone has upset her in some way.
Good luck with her.
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Nice dogs mate.
What height is the dog at the front. From the picture he looks quite tall.
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That would be tricky to put a price on mate. You could contact cochy bonddu books. They would perhaps give you a price.
I have a couple of yearbooks myself [i was even in a rescue or two
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this little dog will only bolt foxes ,very noisy at them ,but won,t interact,which to me is what i need ,theres some deep spots we do ,he has bolted a good few foxes this season.
and for the more stubborn foxes we have this little twat,,lol
Both good little tykes in my opinion.
Both as useful as each other, again in my opinion.
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I think it's no harm to have a mix of both digging and bolting terriers in your kennels but a bolting terrier can't just sit back baying he has to be hard and put his fox under pressure to make him bolt BUT isn't a gripper
You're right mate. Its a bit like have a set of golf clubs....each club/terrier is for a different situation.
Some stayers, some hard/killing dog/some bolters some for cubs etc
All the best
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Sometimes a terrier will understand that a bolt is what the hunter requires and will do what it can to accomplish this.
Would you know what that is?????
I understand where you're coming from, BUT a good bolting dog is NOT just a second rate digging dog.If a terrier is close enough to mix it, then the fox shouldn't have room to bolt, well not on a regular basis. If your dog is regularly letting foxes past it to bolt, imo its lacking in something. I can see there uses and iv owned such dogs but I would never want kennels full of that type
I feel like I'm going round in circles so I think i'm going to disappear again
All the best
What is it then, a clever digging dog?
I know what my idea of a clever digging dog/terrier is, and giving fox space to bolt ain't in my idea. Is that your way of thinking? Just asking mate, like I said iv kenneled bolting dogs and have no axe to grind with them or folk who keep them
Sometimes dogs are that smart.
Don't mean to disrespect anyone, but I've seen dogs smarter than the owners who don't work with their tykes but seem to not understand the easiest way to catch a fox.....and make things difficult for the dog, such as digging directly on top of the terrier rather than a foot or so behind it and the quarry etc....
Do you believe its a trait that can be bred for, is taught or is just natural?
i believe if you breed off intelligent dogs, you sometimes get intelligent dogs that figure out what is required.
Sometimes it takes them a few years to figure it out, sometimes it takes the human a few years to figure it out...lol
Cheers
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Dogs For Hawks. (Specifically Terriers)
in Falconry
Posted
If your dog is putting up enough game for your hawk there shouldn't be a problem.
If there is no game for extended periods, the hawk can get frustrated and sometimes they take it out on the dog.
Sometimes they will rake over the dog, sometimes they may bind to the dog.
It all depends on the hawk. Plenty of flushes helps to cement the relationship between dog and hawk.
Be careful that the dog doesn't bump the hawk off a kill, and once on a kill, always give the hawk some space as they can be protective of their
kills especially with nosey dogs if it gets too close.