Jump to content

midnight

Donator
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,793

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by midnight

  1. midnight
    5 of my nordic styld knives , i dont know why they are still here ? anyway they are all sgeathed now and selling at a reduced price of £65 each and £5 first class recorded delivery to uk. all in 3mm o1 tool steel , with scandi grinds , wenge african hard wood handles and ally fittings , the smaller one has linen micarta a brass fittings . blade lengths are , 6cm on the small one and 9cm on the larger . all have tooled leather sheaths that have been dyed with an air brush two ton effect , made from 3.5mm leather , one with brass hoop as a dangler sheath . they w
  2. midnight
    5 of my nordic styld knives , i dont know why they are still here ? anyway they are all sgeathed now and selling at a reduced price of £65 each and £5 first class recorded delivery to uk. all in 3mm o1 tool steel , with scandi grinds , wenge african hard wood handles and ally fittings , the smaller one has linen micarta a brass fittings . blade lengths are , 6cm on the small one and 9cm on the larger . all have tooled leather sheaths that have been dyed with an air brush two ton effect , made from 3.5mm leather , one with brass hoop as a dangler sheath . they w
  3. midnight
    Thanks that's great !! I would like to see how it works etc . I wouldn't warm etch it . You might end up with a lip where it becomes stainless . I don't think it will need more that 20 mins in a cold solution . Iv not really made anything in the last 10 days , tested the new pair I have pretty well tho , we fired 88gram of shot from my sons shotgun at ten yards at one of the larger new designs , it loved it ha ha
  4. midnight
    Looks great !! You have done your home work on this one !! Remember steel can't be to hard to take an edge , it's just hard to achieve the edge and its brutal . Iv never used hss so will follow your reading on it . The stainless has polished up nice .
  5. midnight
    O1 Phil . But I'm seriously considering moving to stainless as standard . I just finished the sheaths for other others about an hour ago . So I will updat the photos , a couple have gone now but I have 3 more in 4mm o1 steel that u will do the full money in , file work liners etc .
  6. midnight
    hi everyone , i have 7 nordic style knives for sale , made by me ... 6 are 22cm total length with 9.5 mm blades and 28mm at the widest point . i only have sheaths currently for two of the larger knives , both belt carry but one more a dangler with brass rectangle . the other 4 will be sheathed as soon as the leather arrives . handle materials are wenge , african hard wood with a great rustic look and feel, with ally pins and tube . the sheaths are all tooled 3.5mm leather . the small one has black linen micart handle with brass fittings , also a tooled, 3.5mm leather belt carry sheath .
  7. midnight
    That's tur stuff
  8. midnight
    Ferocious chloride griff. I get it in granules of eBay it's dead cheap and warm it works fast but not harmful to you really , the mix bicarbonate of soda in water and Neutralise with that . The stainless will stay brilliant white if it's polished well , the carbon black and there should be a line between the two where carbon has migrated . I think it's ging to look superb !
  9. midnight
    Polish the hell out of it then brief etchin acid then equil time in alkaline to show colour . Job done
  10. midnight
    Looks good gaffer ! G10 dust is nasty shit , hope you where carful with it ?
  11. midnight
    I make stuff all the time ,other than knives , but I have never documented it ... I don't like the man but my dad is a war baby and very inventive , I think that helped me to "have a go" I don't really have anything in progress to post here unfortunately .
  12. midnight
    Iv just bodged my way through it griff . No patterns just stuff I have beaten welded and mashed together ! Usually scaffold pipe with a smaller pipe welded on for gas and a collar at the end that's inside the forge , this just stops the flame jumping off the end of the pipe . I have used hovers , hair driers and bouncy castle blowed for air and just a propane bottle for fuel . I'm sure google will help more than I can . There are millions and millions of forged out there , so so many . I only ever concentrate on what it does rather than how it looks . My first few where destroyed pretty f
  13. midnight
    They aren't secrets , anyone can learn it ! It's just you might find its all the other makers that are hush hush. Make your own gas forge is easy enough if you dare , Iv lost my eyebrows a few times ! First thing is work out what burner type you want (this matters for outside forging and if you want to get really hot ) After that it's a piece of posh I like forced air burners they suit my needs better , and I think they are easier to make and control !
  14. midnight
    The knife ha ha !! Fook guards on tools they cause accidents ?
  15. midnight
    Bloody hell , you get there fast and the core looks really good !! Heat treat off the coals just above, keep it moving to avoid hot spots . Bring it up really slowly to avoid grain growth. This is where the bit you burnt will show if it's gone bad . Quench as you would . But if I was you just temper in your kitchen oven for the time frames for a very uncomplicated and good result . You can pre Heat and they are accurate enough. Double temper is easy in the oven , 65 hrc is really really hard for a knife , but it will hold that edge well if cutting soft organic stuff . 60 hrc is plenty I reco
  16. midnight
    Good work griff. I'm way beyond a slagging match , I think I've done my bit on here without getting into it with another "craftsman " But I will say you bore me Rio , your product bored me .. Your challenge bored me . That anvil has seen some graft !!!! I reckon you are on to something with this project ?!
  17. midnight
    just ring richard ayres barmund international griff get yourself some Ha ha you got his name wrong Rio and what good would it do him ?He would have to pay £200 just to heat treat the one blank after profiling it !! Then what attack it with an angle grinder and ruin the temper ??? Rio , do I detect a hint of tw@t in that post ? Hope not , you just started making knives there's along way to go in your learning ! I know where to buy a Lamborghini, doesn't mean I know how to use it !! I've never commented on you knives etc , or rubbished your posts . I can do ?? Your alway w@nko
  18. midnight
    Not a huge amount I'm afraid . The flat stock is expensive . Here is the thinnest (cheapest ) they have its 38wide x 2.6mm thick, over £60 a meter ! I have to pay postage on that . All the abrasives for profiling then drilling before it can be sent off for heat treating ..... That's thick enough for a filleting knife and about £15-£17 for the steel . Then heat treating and grinding/ polishing to follow . It's superb stuff but about as advanced as a nasa space station , so so expensive . Plus sides are it will hold an edge like carbon steel and no discolouration or rusting like any othe
  19. midnight
    Thanks griff ! I'm the same by nature ( severe dyslexia ) my mind wants to deconstruct it first see how it was done then repeat) worked great in the butchery and stonemasonry but would have been expensive with the knives ha ha . The suggestion you make might be a good answer to the cost issue , I can get a pretty wide range of thickness and width , manny patterns etc if folks wanted that , it would allow me to puta bigger order together and get more for all our money !!
  20. midnight
    Well that type of temper is more "blade smith" than "knife maker" so it's up to you . There is a third option .Knife makers (usually working from ground flat stock steel ) mostly heat treat and temper the Entire blade to the same hardness , I do the same its pretty standard stuff . There is differential tempering like photoed . And there is a the last option ... Edge quenched . This way (looking at my picture) just the portion marked in pencil (cutting edge) and slightly above it is heated . Then just that portion is dipped in a tray of oil. All you do then is temper down the cutting edge
  21. midnight
    Well it worked . Ok I have drawn on with pencil the grind lines and handle . Light yellow is high 50's to 60 hrc . Blue is around mid 50's so spring tempered . If you look, all I want really hard is that cuting edge. There is a cross over point as the Ricasso/under guard becomes cutting edge . That is probably the weakest point of the blade , most vulnerable is the point or tip but that may well temper down through grinding .(can't be helped because it becomes so fine ) anyway every other part is now able to give and steel under little stress . As the temper bleeds back into the handle it
  22. midnight
    You mean business this time griff ! It will be interesting to see if that tang will hold . From what little I know . There might not be a very good reaction when heat treated but let's see !! They look great so far . I took a picture of a tempered blank . It looks darker than it actually is (artificial light for you) Il try to attach it for reference but I'm in the mobile and photo bucket doesn't like linking well this way.
  23. midnight
    Thanks Mr ! Look for fieldcrafter-uk on Facebook
  24. midnight
    A little more than cherry red I reckon , totally depends on the light your working in I black out my workshop and it looks lighter than cherry with no other light than the forge . Just heat until that magnet isn't attracted at all .hang it on a coat hanger and leave well alone for an hour . Do that 3 times your good to go . I'm not sure I'm advising you , I'm just happily following your experiment ha ha .
  25. midnight
    I've been thinking about this pretty much all day . Because it's a pretty horrible thing to do to the steel (the welding ) I recon you keep the file as it is . Grind off the teeth of the file so it's clean steel , no sign to teeth at all . Then cover just the sides in weld , as much as you can . Forge it flat (nothing special here just get all the surface flat) . Go over that with the flap wheel on the angle grinder ,weld again and forge flat , don't try to forge a shape or anything your just looking to remove crud/scale . Anneal it . Cut to shape , grind to shape . Then thermo cycle it (t
×
×
  • Create New...