flak88

For those interested in the use of shock collars in normal obedience training, the below website gives an interesting brief insight in the how and why : http://ponderosakennels.com/e-collar-obedience-getting-started

GWP pups born 17 dec. from excellent pedigree parents. Litter location in The Netherlands, tails will not be docked (legal issue) HD-free (both bloodlines are), no known health issues in neither of the bloodlines Pictures can be found in this topic: http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/181225-gwp-nest-coming-up/ Dame holds titles Rheinlandsieger, Rheinlandjungsieger, European Youth Champion and German Youth Champion. Passed VJP (Working test) with 70 Pts, had her Härtenachweis (sharpness certificate) at an age of 9 months ! Sire holds multiple fieldwork qualifications

Today 8 German Wirehaired Pointers saw the first light of life. Dame and litter are fine! Here's a pic:

I have a wide experience with shock collars and from this experience I dare to say that if used properly and in combination with a suitable training it is by far the most animal friendly training aid I know A good shock collar has a very fine adjustable strength, and in the lower part of the range the "shock" is hardly noticable. This I can tell from personal experience as I used the collar on myself before using it on any dog so I know exactly wat I am doing to the dog. In addition, anyone who comes training his dog with me and wants to use a shock collar has to feel te shock for themself

There has always been quite a difference in culture between “the isles” and “the continent” and one of the most profound differences is, in my opinion, that the Brits seem to be able to make a game out of everything – and become successful in it. I mean, if you would, soberly, try to explain the fun of watching two people throwing sharpened sticks at a round board to, let's say, any average Czech you would raise nothing but eyebrows. Nonetheless, darts tournaments draw crowds of visitors in the UK. So by making a game out of training hunting dogs and organizing tournaments, the British had br

Very soon we are expecting GWP pups from these fine dogs. If the nest is big enough there may be a nice surprise coming up

Pointing on a driven hunt is not very useful in general. There are a few situations though in which pointing on a driven hunt has it's added value, apart from the spectacle it adds when a pointer all of a sudden comes to a full stop & point. In large fields with sugarbeets and the like, pheasants will not easily flush from the beaters, they tend to just run around the line and will not show themselves, I have seen that happening on many occasions. Having pointers working on both sides of the line often more than doubles the results! Secondly, once you get to know your dog well you wil

German short- and wirehaired pointers in general mature quite early, mentally I mean. It is possible to have them ready for working at the age of 12 months, I have seen many examples. For a number of reasons however I prefer to stick to the 2-years rule of thumb as I honestly believe that the dog will last longer if it gets time to mature - and I mean that both physically and mentally. The dogs that are not mature at an age of 3 are just not trained properly. I get those (and Weimaraners and Viszla's and Münsterlanders and some other breeds from group 7) at my training classes quite often

Since I have no idea who Mr Tom Brechney is I might be stirring things up a bit when stating that any 2 years old continental HPR could and should be fully trained and operational. Very roughly the first year in the dog's life is about raising and training, which includes giving the dog limited working experiences in a controlled environment. The second year is about honing the skills and getting the dog experienced in the field , so it will be worked during the first two years of his life, but it is obvious that you cannot expect top results before the dog is fully adult which is around the a

To some extent we all use hand and body signals when communicating with the dogs, many people are not even aware they use them. For instance, when you want a puppy to come to you you get down through your knees and spread your arms wide. Most if not all puppies will react to this gesture and come to you cheerfully. Many people point their hand downwards when giving the dog the command "down" . Once the dog obeys this, it is a very small step to have the dog go down on the gesture only without the spoken command. Dogs do not speak English their communication is all non-verbal so they are natur

The dog is 14 weeks old it is not unusual that it barks, this will pass with time if you raise it normally ie. give him what he needs which is not necessarily what he wants. There is no need to have a second dog if you have a good GSP unless you hunt really really big fields in which case they can hunt as a pair covering more ground in less time. It may look as if 2 dogs will cost relatively less time than 1 but the opposite is true, 2 dogs will cost you more than twice the time of only 1 dog. Particularly if they are both puppies and both need to be trained. It is very difficult to ke

Your dog is way below the concentration that is considered an overdose so you should not expect any short- or longterm damage.

You may want to try casters as feed and bait for tench, put some water with the casters and feed the sinking ones, you can use the floating ones as hook bait as long as you combine 1 or 2 casters with 3 or 4 maggots, or a worm.

Barbless hooks hook faster and penetrate easier and deeper, allowing to "cash" more bites particularly when the fish are very careful. If you keep the lines tight as they all said above there should be no problem, unless the fish needs to be played with for a long time, due to the twisitng of the hook it may loosen and or fall out. So when I expect big fish or on spinners/plugs/jerkbaits I prefer hooks with very small barbs like Partridge and Gamakatsu use on some (or all?) of their hooks. The one moment you come to appreciate barbless hooks to the max is when you hook yourself or your mat

Try this site: http://www.flyfishusa.com/tackle-tips/leaders/about-leaders.html It's got all the answers to your questions. I use the "rafale" fomula and a 4 times water knot, does it for me and simple as can be.