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Levelling Concrete Base?


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#16 foxdropper

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 08:03 pm

They wont recomend anyone as this is such a small job .if the main of its good mate then use a self leveller .mix it thick and trowel to suit fall just before it goes off .dont put too much down as you will transfer the puddle elsewhere .A tiler will want that puddle filled anyway so you aint got nothing to lose

#17 wilbur foxhound

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 09:02 pm

All you need to do is put a length of timber from the front to the back on each side of the run so you can screed the concrete make it 3 inch down to 2 inch mix it at 4 pea gravel 2 sand and 1 of cement once you have screeded it all take the wood out before it sets and fill in where the wood was,most labourers should be able to do this no problem so get youre self down for a pint on a friday at tea time there should be a labourer in having a pint talk to him atb wf

#18 shaunaltoft

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 01:15 pm

Wezza where bouts you at mate

#19 wezza

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 06:19 pm

Thanks for the advice lads.. I'm at Billingham mate

#20 Truther

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 08:31 am

The lad who's done that don't have much idea tbh mate, for starters you should never run a fall to the building, water constantly running at a building will cause problems sooner or later. He should have put the brickwork in on a strip footing, let it go off, then put the concrete in, using the brickwork as the shuttering, it saves you shuttering in timber first, but not only that, you can put battons across the brickwork and get to the middle to trowel it up properly, and that way you aren't looking at an ugly concrete slab from the outside, just brickwork coming up from ground level. He's got 3 course of brick all the way round, and no cuts by the looks, so he must have done the slab pretty level, doing it that way you can only get a limited amount of fall anyway, to much of a slope on it and you would get tight joints at one end and massive joints at the other without using cut bricks, bit late for all that in your case, but it might help somebody else  :thumbs:

 

Its an easy fix, as said you need to get it re screeded, there's plenty of depth to the bob hole, any half decent bricky/groundworker will know what to do, the problem is getting the finish on it with the frame/wire on, the way round that is to cut 2 battons that will sit on the inside, on the bottom of the timber frame, you need 2 so you can stand on one and move the other along while trowelling off, you'll probably have to cut the extra section off the bottom of the gate for the depth there, and a bit of shutter across it when you screed. Best bet is to ask about and find a bricky/groundworker, a decent labourer could do it, but their a bit thin on the ground these days mate tbh. Hope that helps.



#21 Flacko

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 10:11 pm

Wezza a you got no pals in building trade if you wasn't hrs away I come do it for you ask about mate it won't take long to put right atb Flacko

#22 roybo

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 04:30 pm

3HRS away from you flacko 






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