Body grip traps for mink

[TOMO 24,881]

whilst those cubys are great, to me its just another 6 or 7 £ i dont need to spend.

 

all you need is some sheets of wire mesh, laid flat taking up no space at all, a bit of bailer twine forming a loop tied through them all along edge and easy to carry.

 

i use the stuff thats only as thik as rabbit fencing but is rectangle about 1/2 in by 1 inch.

 

by the way secaturs( spelling) for pruning make great cutters for this wire . you can cut your slots in on the job.

 

find a likly set, bend your wire over the trap then just desgise it with bits of log, bark , or what ever you can find round the trap site

[proper job 1]

Mink catch

120

116

Rat 110

Rat Fenn and wire tunnel

A mink went through a BG 30 times, this mouse failed the test, lol

[red dog 3]

with regard to missing the pan on the fenn in a tunnel, wouldn't a small jump stick set at the right distance from the trap sort that problem .

 

or a thin stick that will break easy, set above and acoss the inside of the tunnel, so the mink has to duck under. cow parsly would be good as its brittle but thik.

i was thinking the same thing use a jump stick, i've used them on numerous occasions with success.

[Guest JohnGalway]

This thread is getting better and better. I was going to suggest a type of wire mesh after DS's post but I was beaten to it. Reason I suggested wood was it was what first came to mind as I've never handled a BG trap, seeing it set now the wire option is a better one. Learning all the time.

[Guest Ditch_Shitter]

This thread is getting better and better. Learning all the time.

 

I'd say this Thread is becoming a f*cking Classic! One for the Top Box already, and there's obviously more yet to come! What a f*cking blinder this is becoming!

 

Just this minute walked back through the door and fed the Dogs. I've got points to raise yet Things to consider. But " Proper Job "; Salute! That's what I Call 'Tunels', mate! We obviously think along the same wave length?

 

Those catches though look a little far back? I've heard that's down to how ye set the trigger. Haven't got a referance to it, to hand. But I'm damn sure someone here will put us straight yet? I think it's something to do with round filing the tooth of the dog so the actual trigger doesn't need to travel so far - thus, obviously, the creature hasn't got his head so far foreward before she fires. Makes for a neck / base of skull dislocation, rather than a shoulder catch. I believe I read this in relation to otters, so it would have been American.

 

Can anyone Please explain the mouse? Only I've seen weirder and, to this day, can't work it out!

 

Fast becoming a Definative Thread! All we need now is for Mr Waters to sit by and consider ~ then weigh in and Perfect what we come up with

[TOMO 24,881]

the mouse is an intersting catch, and one that is hard to explain as the you would think it was to small to trigger the trap, at the same time as being far enough a way to be cought.

 

chalkwarren had one in his trap on the body grip trap video.

 

well heres my theory, and its only a theory.

 

do you think a mouse's tail is enough to trigger the trap , the mouse using it almost prehensile like a monkey, pulling on the trigger wires.

[Guest tawny]

with regard to missing the pan on the fenn in a tunnel, wouldn't a small jump stick set at the right distance from the trap sort that problem .

 

or a thin stick that will break easy, set above and acoss the inside of the tunnel, so the mink has to duck under. cow parsly would be good as its brittle but thik.

dont realy think a jump stick would be of use,when tunnel traping mink,

how far you would need to set it from the tunnel i wouldent know,to far and the mink could walk around it

and yet to close and they may jump,and hit the top of the tunnel.

 

but the duck under stick may solve all the problems.

set a few inches before the pan,and the mink has to do a limbo sort of move to get in

ell i would think that would have them,good thought

[proper job 1]

Ditch, my photography is not that great, but the catches were good, the one in the 116 was a f***** big mink, the one in the 120 had not moved a cm from where it was caught. I think the catches are determined by sensitivity of the trigger and the speed in which the target is travelling, if bold and hungry it pushes hard through the trap and gets a classic neck, and in front of the haunch catch, if a bit hesitant you generally just get a neck/throat catch, which still does the job, especially the 120's. As for the mouse I think they jump/swing on the trigger, when it fires they literally get thrown into the jaws. John Galway, if you can get hold of a video called Bodygrip Basics by some fella called Phil Lloyd that will help you no end, it also features some old Scotsman called -----------bugger, forgotten his name now, but he looked half decent at setting a trap

[Netter 0]

For holding Body Grips i have been using these lately, Ive found them very versatile, with a couple of holes in you can nail them to a tree, or a running pole across a stream, or make a hook out of fencing wire and push it into soft ground , or nail it on top of a wooden peg and hammer that in the ground, the list goes on.

 

[proper job 1]

but the duck under stick may solve all the problems.

set a few inches before the pan,and the mink has to do a limbo sort of move to get in

ell i would think that would have them,good thought

Heres what I use at my permanent set Fenn traps on my beat.

 

It dos'nt show it that well, but there is a 2" square hole, Fenn is set level with bottom bar and anything going through has a hard job to get through without stepping on plate. Ok I know stoats and weasels don't have to duck but it always catches, but I will say that I do not use Fenn 6's for mink, only BG's.

[proper job 1]

Netter, spot on my friend, you can also drill a single hole through the centre and put a 6" rod/spike through, good for pushing into soft ground.

[Guest Ditch_Shitter]

Netter / PJ: I take it that's one of those purpose made setting stands from US, yeah? I hoped at first it was some sort of wall tye thing. (Still not certain!) Pay day cometh! What do they call those ones, please?

[proper job 1]

Ditch, you've hit the nail on the head, thats all it is a walltie. In the video Glen shows you how to make various holders, I will try to get some pics up, but I am without a camera for a day or two. Also Peg & Gun used to make some good stabilisers for use on solid ground, I'm certain there are some pictures of those on one of his posts on here somewhere.

[louisekillgerm 0]

Body grip traps and the cubby tunnels are available from Killgerm.

 

KC81 Magnum 110 Bodygrip Trap = £7.75 + VAT = £9.88 each

 

KC83 Cubby Tunnel for Magnum Trap = £8.16 + VAT = £9.59 each

 

+ carriage charge

 

Hope this helps

 

Louise

[proper job 1]

Hi Louise, 110's are not legal for mink, they have to be 116 or 110 with double spring = 120