Allowance By Mill Dot Or By Clicks? I Am Confused

[oldmannewairrifle 9]

I first would like to ask opinions for shooting by making mil dot corrections for distance, against making click adjustments for distance as I have a new scope which is a Nikko Stirling and does not have mil dots on the reticle, it has a christmas tree type and i don't know how far apart they are in relation to mil dots. Makes it a problem when using Chair Gun Pro.

 

My second query is that I have confused myself and need to confirm that if I use a single zero and am shooting at a target further away I click up and if I am shooting at a nearer target than zero range I click down?

The question arises as my chart shows all positive values which has confused me.( Easily done I know)

 

Oh and by the way, Happy New Year to one and all.

 

Thanks to anyone who can help me.

[Rez 4,957]

Hello. My two pence is that I like to keep things simple. On the Hft course or in a comp you can't have a tinker with your scope (unless your shooting the euro style of comps where you can range find) so zero at your preferred range and learn your aim points. Air guns have a limited range, for me no further than 45 yards on the course or 35 in the field, so I know where and what my pellet is doing at these distances in terms of the aim points within the optics. Go with aim points, once you learn them, in the field you know how much to give for each distance. A rabbit may not give you the time to click up or down.

 

If your rifle is on ticket, maybe so. Hunters vermin channel on the choob has started the 'sniper style' clicks on the turrets to good effect however.

[oldmannewairrifle 9]

Thanks Rez. I only do target shooting so time is not a problem. Sub 12 foot only for me. I have had hawke scopes prior (and on my springer now) and have always used aim points so I do get where your coming from. Probably is quicker and easier.

Cheers

[Coypu Hunter 486]

That's a bit strange. If you're using Chairgun, the trajectory chart should show negative values up to your primary zero, then positive values until your secondary zero, then negative values thereafter. That's because the pellet's trajectory will be below the scope's axis to start with, rise up to meet the centre of the crosshairs at the primary zero, continue rising, then fall back to intersect the crosshairs again at the secondary zero, before continuing on to fall to the ground.

 

So, if the target is closer than your primary zero or further away than your secondary zero, you will apply holdover, cos you need to aim high. In between the two zeros, you will apply varying degrees of holdunder, cos you need to aim low.

 

You can't really have a single zero with a parabolic trajectory, so I guess you've set up your rifle/scope so that the pellet only rises to the crosshairs at one point. In that case, you would need to apply holdover for both near and far targets, but such a set-up would likely shorten the pellet's range considerably, meaning that you'd have to apply massive holdover for more distant targets.

 

Personally, I use holdover/under rather than adjusting the turrets for each shot.

[Deker 3,453]

I first would like to ask opinions for shooting by making mil dot corrections for distance, against making click adjustments for distance as I have a new scope which is a Nikko Stirling and does not have mil dots on the reticle, it has a christmas tree type and i don't know how far apart they are in relation to mil dots. Makes it a problem when using Chair Gun Pro.

 

My second query is that I have confused myself and need to confirm that if I use a single zero and am shooting at a target further away I click up and if I am shooting at a nearer target than zero range I click down?

The question arises as my chart shows all positive values which has confused me.( Easily done I know)

 

Oh and by the way, Happy New Year to one and all.

 

Thanks to anyone who can help me.

 

Why don't you simply try using the reticle you have at different distances (it's called shooting off, but I knew someone would make something of that), and then you will know how to use it without adjusting the scope, that's why the reticle is like it is, elevation and windage. It will be different on every rifle and for every pellet/bullet type. Far better to learn how to shoot off if you are using a 12ft lb than trying to adjust the turrets for every shot.

 

Keep it simple, forget technicalities, forget ballistic programs, they are never spot on for YOUR rifle anyway, shooting is simple, don't try and complicate it.

 

[oldmannewairrifle 9]

Thanks to you all for your comments. Seems the sensible thing would be to shoot HFT style as opposed to FT style,

 

Cheers All