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The Best Way To Get Rid Of Pitting On A Project Rifle


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What is the best method or products to get rid of pitting on the action of a rifle.

Im trying to restore a 1965 webley Falcon for my son as an open sight plinker.

 

I sanded the bluing off with 80 grit wet and dry nearly 4 hours of sanding and the whole

Action looks leopard print it feels smooth in places but there are darker grey marks snd a few small holes.

 

I know a few on here have restored rusty pitted rifles.

How did you solve the problem.

I want to blue it so any advice would be brilliant.

Atb

David

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birchwood & casey bluing kit,it has a rust remover.if you can get the end in a half inch chuck on a cordless drill,small amount of oil and wet n dry.you wont remove all the pitting depending on how deep,but it will look ten times better!

 

or you could spray paint it,with two primer coats,and three top coats.

 

 

plenty of info here http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/293034-rifle-restoration-projects/ :thumbs:

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Actual pitting can never be removed with something like steel wool or solvents because by definition there is metal missing and you can't put it back with abrasives. The only way to fix a pit that I know of (besides welding) is to lower the surrounding surface metal in a clean level manner called draw filing.

 

Be careful attempting this however as once metals removed it doesn't go back !

 

Could you not try removing as much of the surface rust as possible and the epoxy coating the more pitted areas before then painting and lacquering, which does give a tougher finish than just paint alone.

 

Or like Davy said a cold blue built up in layers to mask the pits as much as possible.

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Yea that looks pretty deep but if you look at the barrel on mine it wss probably almost as bad I thaught about using a dremal on worst areas but would be hard to get a even finish after to be fair though the little bit I left covered well once blued

 

Fingers crossed I bet a lot of that can be removed with extreme elbow grease :)

Edited by mattybugeye
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hi V

a lot of that looks mostly surface, i think you will be surprised how easy its going to be to remove it.

the hardest part is gong to be the breech block and the cocking arm,as of now i have not found any thing which will hold em to rotate them fast enough to hold some wet n dry/wire wool,so that will have to be good old elbow grease.

 

if you have an old broom handle,wrap some cloth around it,stick it in the cylinder,put a 4" screw in the end,this way you can rotate it from a cordless drill,but go easy over the markings/stamps,or pick your self up a stamp kit of eBay just in case :thumbs:

 

but to be honest! your best tool is to be patient :thumbs:

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a friend is going to try rust bluing when the weather pics up if that works ok i will give that a go.

its the way the used to do top end shot guns .

it also covers up any pitting marks that are left.

 

this is one a guy mick who has suggested rust bluing did to his 77

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post-84763-0-81531000-1392681070.jpeg

post-84763-0-77578000-1392681076.jpeg

post-84763-0-69849900-1392681088.jpeg

post-84763-0-66699300-1392681096.jpeg

post-84763-0-41018900-1392681111.jpeg

post-84763-0-95322500-1392681120.jpeg

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