bullit666 5 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 ive been looking around for a scope for my 452. i just know what to get. ive looked at lots of views...people saying fixed mag etc.. ive decided on variable zoom for buny bashing. i shoot day time and go lamping...so 50mm aswell. ive looked at a couple of scopes with a budget of £200 id be shooting up to yards ish so 4-16 mag or maybe 6-24 (could be overkill) Hawke nite eye sf 4-16 or 6-24 (1 inch) hawke eclipse 30 sf 4-16 or 6-24 (30 mm) nikko stirling night eater 4-16 or 6-24 (30 mm) any thoughts as im pulling my hair out trying to figure out what to put on it any help would be well appreciated Quote Link to post
The one 8,535 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 I put hawke scopes on my rimmy think its 8x52 and was impress so put them on all the air rifles .I prefer the bigger scope hoping to pick up more light when im lamping Quote Link to post
bullit666 5 Posted December 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 hmmm still got to figure which hawke though off the info you have given Quote Link to post
Yokel Matt 918 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Spending time online shopping for a scope is one thing but for gods sake make sure you have a look through them first and find one YOU like. I've had loads of scopes through making the same mistake and its cost a fortune - in the end i looked through a mates and fell in love with it and haven't looked back since. In the same vain a scope I love and rave about other hate so make your own decision. If I could turn back time i'd have kept my second hand meopta 7x50 that cost me £175. Fine ret, forgiving eye relief, pin sharp and clear and 7xmag more than enough for rabbits out to yards. This being said I currently have a simmonds WTC 3-12x50 which stays on 7x and does the job. The scopes you list above seem to be primarily airgun scopes and so I would imagine have a parralex adjustment from reasonable short distance to 100 / 200 meters. Having to mess around with parralex adjustment and zoom at the same time will do your head in if you're into a group of rabbits up a hedgerow, especially on the lamp. If you do decide on a zoom scope consider which focal plane the reticule is in. Rets in the first plane magnify according to the zoom level so as to help you range an object - this is IMO a horrible feature as the increased reticule size only serves to partially obscure the target. Quote Link to post
paulus 26 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 ive tried a good few but always go back to the whitetail classic, good glass, good magnification and good in low light and on the lamp Quote Link to post
The one 8,535 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Right there hawke sport hd's 3x9x50 now i went for a look change back from fifty quid too Quote Link to post
bullit666 5 Posted December 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 i did look at a wtc phillipines made. ao at the end of the scope would do my head in though... air rifle scopes and rimmi scopes...meh only a .22lr. not as if its gonna kick hard so not really worried there. just want a nice bit of glass with the option to mag up to 16 really. for my money i just want the clearest scope. i always found parallax adjustment handy whllst ive been out shooting so kinda want to stick to what i know in a way Quote Link to post
bullit666 5 Posted December 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 ive tried a good few but always go back to the whitetail classic, good glass, good magnification and good in low light and on the lamp there is a white tail classic on flea bay 6.5-20x50 with parallax adjustment (proper one supposedly) Quote Link to post
paulus 26 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 clearest scope ive owned was a leupold athough the redfield copy comes close Quote Link to post
bullit666 5 Posted December 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Wish I had leupold money Quote Link to post
paulus 26 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Wish I had leupold money believe me theres scopes and then theres scopes like most things in life you only get what you pay for although a leuplod 3-9 x 40 vx-1 isnt to expensive secondhand and will last a lifetime Quote Link to post
bullit666 5 Posted December 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 I know the glass is better. But at the end of the day they are only as good as your eyes. Do you really need to spend that much for shooting around 80yards. Theoretically you see your quarry in dvd quality r.ather than blu ray Quote Link to post
Yokel Matt 918 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Wish I had leupold money believe me theres scopes and then theres scopes like most things in life you only get what you pay for although a leuplod 3-9 x 40 vx-1 isnt to expensive secondhand and will last a lifetime Amen to that - I've got two Zeiss scopes now on my centerfire rifles which cost a packet but are by far the best i've ever looked through (6-24x56 IL T Victory Diavari & 3-12x56 Victory HT). A second hand quality scope in reasonable condition will often do you more favours than a lower qulaity new scope - try www.guntrader.co.uk or look out in the classifieds section. Quote Link to post
dogvixen01 34 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 a lot of things come into the equation when buying a scope 1 budget . 2 day or night or both . 3 calibre ( airgun,rimfire or centrefire ) . 4 max distances you are likely to shoot .etc these are just a rough list to consider. i shoot at night and my scope is always left at 7 ( 3 x 9 x 50 burris ).reason being i read an article in a gun magazine trying to explaining the myths /misconceptions of scope sizes regarding light.what came out of the tests was an adults eye pupil max diameter was around 7 mm so that was the max ammount of light which could enter the eye irrespective of scope objective size ( 40 ,42 ,56 )that is why mine on my 3 x 9 50 set at 7 gives ratio a fraction over 7 .there are other factors which come into it .some 56 scopes have 25 mm inner tubes so light entering is basically the same as a 25 mm tube.clarity of glass and quality of lenses will degrade light input.a lot of people who shoot nv find cheaper scopes with less lens special coatings get a better clarity picture than with some more expensive scopes ( and around 6 x mag ). the findings of this testing in this article was that if you have a scope which has the same components a 50,56, mm dia scope or 40 scope the max light entering your eye for max optical viewing is still 7 mm which is basically all you can see due to your eye pupil size. this might be why a lot of fixed mag scopes are 6 x 42 ,8 x 56 ( where this 7 factor is inbuilt.) if i could find this article again i will post it on here.in your case probably max shooting at 100 yds daytime night there are a number of cheaper options.better to try bfore you buy if possible.i have a 3 x 9 x50 nikko sterling on my 22 rimfire with mildot reticle ,which cost £50 ,which is good enough for my needs.if you want to buy a top quality scope on limited budget second hand can save a lot of money. good luck. 1 Quote Link to post
tegater 789 Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 a lot of things come into the equation when buying a scope 1 budget . 2 day or night or both . 3 calibre ( airgun,rimfire or centrefire ) . 4 max distances you are likely to shoot .etc these are just a rough list to consider. i shoot at night and my scope is always left at 7 ( 3 x 9 x 50 burris ).reason being i read an article in a gun magazine trying to explaining the myths /misconceptions of scope sizes regarding light.what came out of the tests was an adults eye pupil max diameter was around 7 mm so that was the max ammount of light which could enter the eye irrespective of scope objective size ( 40 ,42 ,56 )that is why mine on my 3 x 9 50 set at 7 gives ratio a fraction over 7 .there are other factors which come into it .some 56 scopes have 25 mm inner tubes so light entering is basically the same as a 25 mm tube.clarity of glass and quality of lenses will degrade light input.a lot of people who shoot nv find cheaper scopes with less lens special coatings get a better clarity picture than with some more expensive scopes ( and around 6 x mag ). the findings of this testing in this article was that if you have a scope which has the same components a 50,56, mm dia scope or 40 scope the max light entering your eye for max optical viewing is still 7 mm which is basically all you can see due to your eye pupil size. this might be why a lot of fixed mag scopes are 6 x 42 ,8 x 56 ( where this 7 factor is inbuilt.) if i could find this article again i will post it on here.in your case probably max shooting at 100 yds daytime night there are a number of cheaper options.better to try bfore you buy if possible.i have a 3 x 9 x50 nikko sterling on my 22 rimfire with mildot reticle ,which cost £50 ,which is good enough for my needs.if you want to buy a top quality scope on limited budget second hand can save a lot of money. good luck. And I think it is by the age 30, the max exit pupil has reduced to only 5mm and not the 7mm of the young adult! Quality of glass and coatings are defiantly the best option. I only use cheap scopes on my rimmies, ( Nikon monarch 3 and bushnell) but they are both more than suitable for day, dawn/dusk and lamping. Quote Link to post
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