nailer 27 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 husky all the way,ive got three stihls and they dont come near to the xp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slingshot82 32 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 got sorted with a saw, its a 12" top handle sthil saw, my mate's mate, who is a landscaper got it for me, as you need a chainsaw ticket to buy it, came to a total of £306, got boots, trousers, helmet and gloves, 10L metal jerry can and bottle of 2-stroke, sharpening file, and spare chain thrown in on the deal, for £50. deal of the century, the trousers alone were £69. was the last saw the boy had, he closed down, my mate's mate got tons of gear of him cheap, a chain sharpening machine, 7 or 8 chains, 2 chain guides, an entire engine complete with handles and engine brake(complete saw minus blade)used, 2 pistons and sets of rings, 2 cylinder barrels, spark plugs, all for his saw, for £125 forgot to say that my saw is new I thought the top handle saws were for brashing while up the tree, and they were not meant for use on the ground? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Strong Stuff 2,171 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 I've never used an MS200, but it doesn't sound like they are for cutting logs. "MS 192 T C-E, MS 200 T WARNING! Due to the special compact handle design (closely spaced handles), there is an increased risk of injury from loss of control. (Cut injuries due to uncontrolled reactive forces of the chain saw or leg injuries due to the saw “dropping” at the end of the cut.) For this reason these special chain saws should be used only for work in the tree by persons trained in special cutting and working techniques and who are properly secured (lift bucket, ropes, safety harness)." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Caravan Monster 323 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 http://youtu.be/G3v7Dm7KYQc Be very careful - kick back is accentuated with top handle saws because the handles are so close together there is no leverage to stop the cutting bar swinging up and back toward your shoulder. Chainsaw injuries are never minor. Get it on ebay and replace with an MS260 if you're doing a lot of work, or the MS210 to MS250 range are very good if just doing a bit of firewood (or whatever they're called these days). Stihl kit is very repairable - I've got 15+ year old Stihl 021 here that had been horribly abused by a mechanically inept hillbilly. Stripped it down, treated it to some new rings and a good clean, and it runs like new. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 I've never used an MS200, but it doesn't sound like they are for cutting logs. "MS 192 T C-E, MS 200 T WARNING! Due to the special compact handle design (closely spaced handles), there is an increased risk of injury from loss of control. (Cut injuries due to uncontrolled reactive forces of the chain saw or leg injuries due to the saw “dropping” at the end of the cut.) For this reason these special chain saws should be used only for work in the tree by persons trained in special cutting and working techniques and who are properly secured (lift bucket, ropes, safety harness)." well what else are they for cutting they are perfectly safe as long as you know what your on with!! might not be recommend (or legal) to use them on the ground in some countries, but ANY chainsaw is lethal in the wrong hands!!! plus they can be used with two hands so it no probs!!! always makes me laugh how any f****r can buy an ms 880 with a 50 inch bar but you have to be "trained" to buy a 200 with a 12 inch :laugh: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 Be very careful - kick back is accentuated with top handle saws because the handles are so close together there is no leverage to stop the cutting bar swinging up and back toward your shoulder. Chainsaw injuries are never minor. Get it on ebay and replace with an MS260 if you're doing a lot of work, or the MS210 to MS250 range are very good if just doing a bit of firewood (or whatever they're called these days). Stihl kit is very repairable - I've got 15+ year old Stihl 021 here that had been horribly abused by a mechanically inept hillbilly. Stripped it down, treated it to some new rings and a good clean, and it runs like new. got a 210 here mate and love it!! but any saw can kick back!! i got a 076 that runs at 110cc and i would worry alot more about that than a 200!!! you tried the 201 yet?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
irishnut 297 Posted December 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 only prob i find with top handle, is that when you cut through the log, the tip of the bar can end up very close to my knackers. if i'm not careful, distance between bar handle and throttle handle is very close making control harder Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Strong Stuff 2,171 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 I've never used an MS200, but it doesn't sound like they are for cutting logs. "MS 192 T C-E, MS 200 T WARNING! Due to the special compact handle design (closely spaced handles), there is an increased risk of injury from loss of control. (Cut injuries due to uncontrolled reactive forces of the chain saw or leg injuries due to the saw “dropping” at the end of the cut.) For this reason these special chain saws should be used only for work in the tree by persons trained in special cutting and working techniques and who are properly secured (lift bucket, ropes, safety harness)." well what else are they for cutting they are perfectly safe as long as you know what your on with!! might not be recommend (or legal) to use them on the ground in some countries, but ANY chainsaw is lethal in the wrong hands!!! plus they can be used with two hands so it no probs!!! always makes me laugh how any f****r can buy an ms 880 with a 50 inch bar but you have to be "trained" to buy a 200 with a 12 inch :laugh: You know what I meant clever c.unt. The OP has just said above they are more difficult to control than a conventional saw, I thought I wanted one until a lad showed me one in use cutting logs on the ground. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 I've never used an MS200, but it doesn't sound like they are for cutting logs. "MS 192 T C-E, MS 200 T WARNING! Due to the special compact handle design (closely spaced handles), there is an increased risk of injury from loss of control. (Cut injuries due to uncontrolled reactive forces of the chain saw or leg injuries due to the saw “dropping” at the end of the cut.) For this reason these special chain saws should be used only for work in the tree by persons trained in special cutting and working techniques and who are properly secured (lift bucket, ropes, safety harness)." well what else are they for cutting they are perfectly safe as long as you know what your on with!! might not be recommend (or legal) to use them on the ground in some countries, but ANY chainsaw is lethal in the wrong hands!!! plus they can be used with two hands so it no probs!!! always makes me laugh how any f****r can buy an ms 880 with a 50 inch bar but you have to be "trained" to buy a 200 with a 12 inch :laugh: You know what I meant clever c.unt. The OP has just said above they are more difficult to control than a conventional saw, I thought I wanted one until a lad showed me one in use cutting logs on the ground. not being a clever c.unt at all, just speaking from experience!! ive been cutting logs/branches on the ground full time for the last 5 months using them and they are perfectly safe!!! you can use them with two hands on the ground and the chain brake is used just the same as any other saw!! like i said there are alot more dangerous saws freely available on the market, without no training needed to buy them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 PS..., yes just for cutting logs on the ground you dont need one!! id go for the ms170 if thats all i needed a saw for Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 only prob i find with top handle, is that when you cut through the log, the tip of the bar can end up very close to my knackers. if i'm not careful, distance between bar handle and throttle handle is very close making control harder well your doing it wrong then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Strong Stuff 2,171 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 PS..., yes just for cutting logs on the ground you dont need one!! id go for the ms170 if thats all i needed a saw for Exactly the saw I was going to get, until (genuinely) I went into my local "Countrywide" store, and they had a trolley with 3 or 4 of them in, seems the Chinese made ones they sell now aren't the same as the old MS170 that were made in either Sweden or USA (can't remember which the lad said). So, I still haven't bought one, was looking at the Husky Nailer was selling well cheap recently, but that was too much saw for me. So am still (haha) using my Brothers Ryobi 14" one .............. not ideal! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mickmck 716 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 I have found if you buy cheap you normaly buy twice!I have messed around with cheap saws and knackered secondhand ones and have finaly ordered a new husky its £400, but it will last years (I hope!) i gotta agree mate if you pay peanuts you get monkeys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stewie 3,387 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 PS..., yes just for cutting logs on the ground you dont need one!! id go for the ms170 if thats all i needed a saw for Exactly the saw I was going to get, until (genuinely) I went into my local "Countrywide" store, and they had a trolley with 3 or 4 of them in, seems the Chinese made ones they sell now aren't the same as the old MS170 that were made in either Sweden or USA (can't remember which the lad said). So, I still haven't bought one, was looking at the Husky Nailer was selling well cheap recently, but that was too much saw for me. So am still (haha) using my Brothers Ryobi 14" one .............. not ideal! lol the old ones are stihl the best :laugh: theres alot of fakes around now but genuine stihl products are always going to be quality mate!! if you can get by with a ryobi then that will probably do you for as long as it lasts!! but im sure no stihl has been made in sweden or usa??? ive just come back from 4 months in sweden and the only saws built/made there are huskys and jonsered?? both made by the same company now and both top class saws ive got a second hand ms170 here that i can sell, only want a drink for it, if your interested let me know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riohog 5,939 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 i was a production wood cutter for a good few years ,soft and hardwoods , saws are very dangerous tools ive seen some horific accidents majority human erorr, regardless of the machine you use take a bit of advice ;; get yourself some cavlar trouses and a good pair of boots ,a good saw will rip a pound of flesh off you in a second !! ,,the smaller the bar ..the faster th saw will cut 14" is ideal .. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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