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Hot Shot

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About Hot Shot

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    east anglia
  • Interests
    Cycling
    Shooting
  1. I used to have a LF but changed to a Tracer. They are quite similar, but differences as i know it are: 1. Different grip - Tracer has finger recesses 2. Wiring on the Tracer is an improvement, internally it is better also there is a wire restraint on the end of the handle which stops the wire breaking at this point. I have not had to rewire mine - unlike the old LF. 3. The plug on the Tracer is much better - the power doesn't go directly through the spring , which tends to flatten in the LF under heat. I still tape my plug though. 4. Variable power on the Tracer is reliable. It used to be
  2. Another vote for the Tracer 170VP with either a 22Ah or a 14Ah Lithium - all the lamp you'll require! Word of warning, if you go for a Lightforce, i heard there were some issues with failures on their Variable Power system, so fixed power may be the way forward if you go down the LF route.
  3. It sounds as if they could be out of collimation which usually occurs with a bump or a drop. The Sportsters are very easy to put out of collimation due to their poor design/construction (plastic body and twin hinge) - in fact you can put them out by twisting the hinges. IMHO Nikon should have only produced with a MgAl body as this is more stable however more expensive!! If out of collimation, the a prism or both prisms will need to be reset/calibrated. There are very few companies in the UK that have calibration machine (I think Hawke do, but just for their products). You could try Nikon the
  4. Hi, If you download the Hawke BRC www.hawkeoptics.com/brc.html Run the program and then select the SRPro reticle, a range finding window appears. Tap the information into that and it gives you the typical ranges depending on what you are trying to bracket. Hope this helps
  5. Jim, the Hawke Sidewinders and TAC30's that i have had (some bought years ago and two recently) are all good. Not too sure about the first one you had, but the second one sounds as if the screw on top of the turret needs nipping up. The screw is designed to be loosened so you can reset the zero once dialled in. If you are unsure, speak to the importers, Deben, they are a helpful bunch and will get you on track either with advice on how to put it right or with a fix of the issue. Hope you get it sorted as the scopes do offer a lot of bang for your bucks and IMO the best reticles out there.
  6. I used to be very happy with my SR6 Nighteye, It acounted for a lot of foxes over the years, but had to sell it due to needing the money (bloody divorce!) ive been on the lookout for another christms tree style reticle scope for me 223 and came across this and decided to give it a go. When i receved the scope today and finally had a chance to look at the reticle, i was blown away. gonna have a lotta fun with this one:) hope the pic come out OK, photos are not my strong point. The scope is a 6-24x50 Sidewinder. Off to Scotland this weekend with the girlfriend so no chance to set
  7. You could always try the following. All free so you've nothing to lose. Hawke BRC available for MAC and PC - download here http://www.hawkeoptics.com/apps/brc.html Also available for iPhone - visit the app store. If you are interested in shorter ranges (Airguns), you could try the Hawke Chairgun Pro, currently only available for PC but MAC version is coming soon http://www.hawkeoptics.com/apps/chairgun-pro.html Also available for iPhone - visit the app store. Cheers, HS
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